I have a 15-22 on the way (my debit card was charged yesterday). Could someone measure the outside barrel diameter for me, please?

Thanks!

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Doug Stump

ABOUT .667" THAT WAS MEASURED ABOUT A 1/2" BEHIND MY FACTORY FLASH HIDER.

Thanks, well so much for my idea of boring out a standard AR-15 flash hider to slip over the barrel. Back to plan "A", step the barrel down and thread it.

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Doug Stump

I got .669
I bored out one for a 10/22 and slid it on.

.669" here.

LTC

If you don't want to thread the barrel, there is an adapter on ebay for flash hiders.

Thanks y'all. I saw the adaptor on eBay but if I decide to do this I'd rather just step the barrel down and thread it. The good news is the barrel will fit through the head stock spindle on our metal lathe.

Right now I’m waiting impatiently for the big brown truck to bless me with its presence.

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Doug Stump

I sent my barrel out for threading. Only downside is when the flash hider is on the barrel the handguard end cap won't slide over it and also the 3/4" pvc tool that's takes off the barrel nut won't go over the flash hider either. Basically the flash hider has to be removed any time the gun is disassembled. Thankfully I don't plan on removing the barrel many times if at all.

the 1 i made chatanoogaphil should slide right through with no problems.. u may wanna ask him but im almost ***.

No problem... the PVC slips right over Belt_Fed's suppressor.

I think the issue is that the handguard cap won't slide over the muzzle device.
Since you can't access the barrel nut without removing the handguard cap and you can't remove the barrel without removing the muzzle device to clear the handguard cap, it goes to reason that the only way to remove the barrel is to remove the muzzle device.

Or perhaps you could just throw away the handguard cap before re-installing the barrel and muzzle device, but I suspect is might be there to support the handguard...

Boring out a standard M16 compensator works. The problem is you have to cement three (3) parts to the barrel as the "grenade" rings are deeper than the barrel diameter. Or you can just bore out part way to the first ring and glue it just at the muzzle.

Here's the three-part version. It got bored out too large and never fit right though. Be more careful and keep checking the fit of the parts and you'll have better results.



and here's the same rifle with a threaded barrel and M16A1 compensator:



Note how the slip-on version shortens the overall length of the barrel.

-- Chuck

Chuck, WHAT???

...and a backwards crush washer.

That bottom picture is of a different barrel with a different flash hider. The Smith does need a special outer diameter crush washer. I can't find 'em tho.

OK, I reversed the crush washer.

Used my last peel washer a while ago and couldn't find an M16A1 lock washer. Figured I had a 50-50 chance!

"Note how the slip-on version shortens the overall apparent length of the barrel." (Missing word added.)

-- Chuck

Indeed it's a different barrel, but the crush washer is properly installed.
There's no need for a special outer diameter crush washer as crush washers are tapered.
You put the small end towards the barrel and the large end towards the muzzle device.

AR15Barrels,

Crush Vs. Peel, is there any preference, any reason to chose one over the other? Are the Peel Washers reusable since they don't "crush" ?

If you use a crush washer on your 15-22.. be sure to use a barrel vise or strap or you will need a new reciever... looks like chuck is using one for tention but if you try to index a flash hider use some supporet or peel washers

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Belt Fed,

Great tip for those who may be reading and try to chuck up the upper in a vice using receiver jaws... A big No/No... And I don't like the idea of clamping on the barrel! I think I will go the peel washer route myself.

My barrel blocks don't fit the barrel well. The crush washer is just there to fill the gap and as a lock washer of sorts. And not excessively torqued. No need to index the "birdcage" compensator.

Peel washer was a PITA for indexing but once done it was done. You can save the peels if you want to change the index it it's not right. Peel washer is certainly a labor savings when indexing.

-- Chuck

I would recommend a peel washer in this instance to reduce the amount of torque required to index.
No problem re-using a peel washer.

I would also shy away from a crush washer even WITH the use of barrel vise blocks because 22 rimfire barrels tend to be much softer steel than typical 223/5.56 barrels and you can stretch the barrel right at the thread relief while crushing a crush washer.
The only way I would use a crush washer on a rimfire barrel is if I pre-crushed or ground the washer so the muzzle device only needed to be tightened about 15-20 degrees to final index.

well said not to mention you can break the upper without barrel vise.. a wayfer washer or a peel washer is the way to go on these little rifles

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor