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  #1  
Old 01-19-2010, 05:42 PM
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Default Flash Supp?

Hi all, just signed up.
But more importantly, I just came back from the S & W store in Springfield, Ma and got a new M & P 15-22, oh and a 1911 (stainless) too.
What I'm wondering is, can the M & P's barrel be threaded using a standard die for a suppressor? Not that there's any flas from a 22 LR but it would look so much better, it looks kind of plain.

Thanks, Dave
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2010, 05:48 PM
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Old 01-19-2010, 05:51 PM
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Sorry guys, just saw below that you can (I'm new, and excited about my purchases), but can it be done at home or does it require a dedicated gunsmith?
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:00 PM
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I would not do it yourself. It is quite a bit more involved than just spinning a die onto the end of the barrel.
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catcanski View Post
Hi all, just signed up.
But more importantly, I just came back from the S & W store in Springfield, Ma and got a new M & P 15-22, oh and a 1911 (stainless) too.
What I'm wondering is, can the M & P's barrel be threaded using a standard die for a suppressor? Not that there's any flas from a 22 LR but it would look so much better, it looks kind of plain.

Thanks, Dave
Dang, you loaded up on hardware.

Surprised the S&W store did not have the model with the flash suppressor in stock. (Unless they are not compliant where the store is located). As mentioned, get it put on professionally. If you or anyone would want to add a can later, it is imperative that the threading be true, or a baffle strike can occur.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:10 PM
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Yes, I'm stationed here in Ma. so pretty much everything is neutered. I also bought three lowers, tired of dealing with the state mandated regulations, so I'll be customizing my own...
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by maxicooper View Post


maxicooper,

does your wilson flash supp need to be indexed? it doesn't look like it but i honestly don't know?

thanks. good looking rifle!
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  #8  
Old 01-19-2010, 11:40 PM
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All I want to say is there's a search function for a reason. This has been gone over countless times.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikehoncho View Post
maxicooper,

does your wilson flash supp need to be indexed? it doesn't look like it but i honestly don't know?

thanks. good looking rifle!
It's been indexed.

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Old 01-20-2010, 12:42 AM
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since we are back on the topic with a new thread i guess I'll ask my question -

should you have the flash suppressor before you take the gun to get threaded?
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  #11  
Old 01-20-2010, 01:04 AM
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If the gunsmith doesn't know what the proper threads are for a AR-15 flash hider, then I wouldn't trust them to do the job.

With that said, it depends on what flash hider it is, and how you want it attached. If you want/need it indexed without crush washers or peel washers, then they will need it. If you are getting it permanently attached, then they will need it. Otherwise if you have the tools to properly clamp the barrel in a vice and install the flash hider, then they do not need it.
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2010, 07:17 AM
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Anyone familiar with the M16/AR15 and competent to thread the barrel will know the thread diameter and pitch. I just got mine back in a week (including UPS time). I'm putting on a M16A1 muzzle device as there's one in my parts box.

The barrel must be removed from the receiver first.

-- Chuck
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:45 PM
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For those of you that live in a State that requires you to have a pinned flash hider. Have your machinist turn the diameter of the flash hider down to allow the barrel nut to come off. Otherwise, you will never be able to take your rifle apart.
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2010, 02:31 PM
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threading when its done right takes a bit of time... the barrel has to be indicated in using a jig to center it on the bore of the rifle not the o.d... it usually takes me longer to setup a barrel for threading then it actually takes me to thread it... the only reason i can think of that they would need your flash hider is to index it or if you dont wanna use a washer, he would need it to make the threads to the right deapth(some are more shallow than others) or maybe he just wants it to protect your threads during shippment... all flashiders/comps for the ar-15 platform are 1/2-28 threads and suppressors for the most part in this cal. are the same or use some kind of adaptor(yhm phantom 556)
hope this helps
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BELT_FED View Post
threading when its done right takes a bit of time... the barrel has to be indicated in using a jig to center it on the bore of the rifle not the o.d... it usually takes me longer to setup a barrel for threading then it actually takes me to thread it... the only reason i can think of that they would need your flash hider is to index it or if you dont wanna use a washer, he would need it to make the threads to the right deapth(some are more shallow than others) or maybe he just wants it to protect your threads during shippment... all flashiders/comps for the ar-15 platform are 1/2-28 threads and suppressors for the most part in this cal. are the same or use some kind of adaptor(yhm phantom 556)
hope this helps

Thanks that helps, is $75 about right for threading?
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  #16  
Old 01-20-2010, 03:37 PM
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I paid...

$7.00 to ship the barrel to the machine shop
$49.00 for threading service included the shipping back to me
$10.50 for A2 flash hider and crush washer

$66.50 total
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  #17  
Old 01-20-2010, 04:14 PM
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sounds about right.. avoid anywhere that "turns on centers" unless they are going to rechamber and recrown the barrel.. i allways recrown because the factory crown creates a sharp edge to the threads so an 11* target crown fixes all that and no i dont charge extra for that and neither should any other company
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  #18  
Old 01-20-2010, 06:11 PM
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Belt Fed has all his facts correct. I have been a machinist since 1981and agree with him 100%
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  #19  
Old 01-20-2010, 06:31 PM
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The $49 to Thread AND ship the Barrel back is a Fantastic Price!!

Consider the time required not to mention overhead

unpackage tictocktictock

Prepare the barrel by removing whatever is needed so it can get chucked in and referanced to ID of Bore Center TicTock >>>>>


Chuck it up in the 4 jaw and indicate from Bore
A fair bit of TicTock here>>>>

Make outside dia. cut>>>Thread >>>> Change tool Bit>> Cut Crown cleanly >>>

Remove the barrel from Lathe>>>

Inspect and reinstall what was removed>>>>

Repackage/Write Bill>>

Hand off to UPS Driver and pay the monthly UPS fee when required which amounted to $7.00 from the $49 sent in

Whoo Hoo!!! Smith just made $42.00 Oh shoot! the Overhead thing!!

Look ma!! I made $30 bucks this morning

And that is dang close to it!

So I say again that is a Fantastic Price $49.00

Oh yeah...Congrats on the new AR I wish I had a Smith lower, Might have to get me one now that they seem to be more available around these parts.

-2sigs

Last edited by 2sigs; 01-20-2010 at 06:36 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-20-2010, 06:42 PM
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well to be total honest if they have any over head at all.. and are doing it for 50 and no shipping they are not taking the time to "do it right" im not saying it wont work with a flash hider but most wont go through the trouble it takes to get it right for 42 dollars yes it will be threaded.. but id bet that they didnt indicate the barrel in for that price.. i do it for 50 +shipping for the guys on here and i dont charge extra to remove barrel or recrown but most place do charge extra for that, but i have no over head other than my time and tooling... make sure you send your barrel to someone that knows what they are doing and will take the time to do it right...

im not saying straight shooters machinist did it wrong for all i know he is like myself and takes pride in his work , im just saying most wont do it right for that price so becareful... hope this helps
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  #21  
Old 01-20-2010, 07:00 PM
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I think the situtation is the guy is retired and does this on the side. Also he works out of his pole barn so i imagine not much overhead.

Here is his setup he uses when he threads ...



and a sample of his work



This is a quote from his website... Barrels are threaded concentric to the bore using a single point tool on a metal lathe.

No additional charge to Shorten and re crown your barrel.

Last edited by straight-shooter; 01-20-2010 at 07:05 PM.
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  #22  
Old 01-20-2010, 07:28 PM
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So long as the bbl is 16" long when finished.
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
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So long as the bbl is 16" long when finished.
Well, so much for the 15-22 handgun
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:45 PM
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Pay the tax and u can shortin all you want... looks like good work
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:52 PM
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In that pic he is using a 3 jaw chuck ... makes it really hard to indicate in the bore when you can't move the jaws individually to indicate it in but maybe he has a 4 jaw and uses it, its just not in the pic..
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BELT_FED View Post
In that pic he is using a 3 jaw chuck ... makes it really hard to indicate in the bore when you can't move the jaws individually to indicate it in but maybe he has a 4 jaw and uses it, its just not in the pic..
Yeah, hard tellin' what he was setup doing when he took that photo.
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  #27  
Old 01-20-2010, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BELT_FED View Post
sounds about right.. avoid anywhere that "turns on centers" unless they are going to rechamber and recrown the barrel.. i allways recrown because the factory crown creates a sharp edge to the threads so an 11* target crown fixes all that and no i dont charge extra for that and neither should any other company
what does "turns on centers" mean? and recrown?
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:49 PM
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Its where u place a center point in the lathe chuck and 1 in the tail stop then pinch the barrel between those 2 point placing pressure on the crown and chamber then they attach a dog leg to the barrel and use that to turn the barrel.... or the chuck up on the barrels breech area and run a live stop in the crown placing a lot of pressure on it...both these setups easily damage some of the barrels most critical areas
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:52 PM
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I should say that those methods do work for high end barrels cause they r made from a much harder material than production 22 barrels r made of.... its still putting pressure in places you shouldn't...
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:09 PM
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I see what you are saying
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:50 PM
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Just received my barrel back... lookin' good! thank you to Jim at JPgrips

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Old 01-24-2010, 09:28 PM
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New here and just got back from the Dealer where I got my new 15-22 and it came with a suppressor installed already. All the 15-22's they in the store had suppressors on them. Is S&W changing up and all will have them?
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  #33  
Old 01-25-2010, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by EdsNotHere View Post
New here and just got back from the Dealer where I got my new 15-22 and it came with a suppressor installed already. All the 15-22's they in the store had suppressors on them. Is S&W changing up and all will have them?
Unless you live in a communist state where gun owners are oppressed.

Smith has compliant and non-compliant models available now.
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  #34  
Old 01-27-2010, 04:09 AM
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Default Another Satisfied jpgrips customer

I sent mine to JPgrips on Straight Shooters recommendation. Got it back in a week. $49 includes return shipping. If you have to ship your entire upper like I did then it is another $24. http://www.jpgrips.com.

I sent him this DPMS Flash Hider ($5.69) and crush washer ($2.19) which he installed for me. He did a really great job.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tnumber=343064
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tnumber=333363

Here are the results:



And since this is a S&W forum, here is a pic of "Sweet Lips", my beloved M&P15T:

Last edited by DavidRSA; 01-27-2010 at 04:12 AM. Reason: Fixed links
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  #35  
Old 01-27-2010, 10:43 AM
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Great looking rifle indeed.
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  #36  
Old 01-27-2010, 02:47 PM
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Looking good there DavidRSA.... glad you are happy with the thread job!
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BELT_FED View Post
I should say that those methods do work for high end barrels cause they r made from a much harder material than production 22 barrels r made of.... its still putting pressure in places you shouldn't...

Belt-Fed,

So what method would you use to machine the barrel? You don't have to speak in laymen terminology, I went to school for Machine Trades.

I didn't check the barrel at the tip to see if it had any taper. If not, couldn't you just chuck up at the end of the barrel assuming your headstock can clear the chamber on the barrel and use a 4J and indicate it in?

Or.... You could throw in on a CNC Mill and Mill the treads on! (I've seen that done before, seems whacky to me)
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:07 PM
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either way works... as long as you indicate in the bore not the o.d. ... circular interp. is the term. you were looking for on the cnc mill... most cnc mills now have a good canned cycle to do it for you all it needs to know is where to do it... i set up with a 4 jaw and a jig to indicate the bore and single point them... or just for ****s ans giggles you can put it in a turn mill and turn it while you circular interp. it by using polar cords. or you can burn them on a e.d.m. if your just looking for something to keep you on your toes
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:40 PM
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There are two tools I don't like in a Machine Shop.... The EDM and the Surface Grinder, don't ask how I developed such opinions!
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Old 01-30-2010, 02:22 AM
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I bought my 2'nd M&P with the factory installed flash hider. Here it is with my other favorite 22. If this new M&P proves to be as troublefree and accurate as my early one I'm going to be very happy.
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdsNotHere View Post
New here and just got back from the Dealer where I got my new 15-22 and it came with a suppressor installed already. All the 15-22's they in the store had suppressors on them. Is S&W changing up and all will have them?
Well, since everyone knows they make a bullet go faster..............
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:23 AM
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hey guys, ran into a prob. while installing a guys aftermarket flash suppressor... it was a a2 style and they need to be index or use a crush washer.. he sent the crush washer... these are not ment to be used with the 15-22 if you try and install them without a barrel vise you will break your reciever.. since the flash hider must be removed to install the barrel in a 15-22.. it needs to be able to be removed easily with out a barrel vise... i ended up dusting a few .001 off the washer so that it could be installed without breaking anything... if you need to time an aftermarket flash hider use the peelible washers.. thanx for your time and i hope this helps.. heres some pics of my setup at the moment
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BELT_FED View Post
hey guys, ran into a prob. while installing a guys aftermarket flash suppressor... it was a a2 style and they need to be index or use a crush washer.. he sent the crush washer... these are not ment to be used with the 15-22 if you try and install them without a barrel vise you will break your reciever.. since the flash hider must be removed to install the barrel in a 15-22.. it needs to be able to be removed easily with out a barrel vise... i ended up dusting a few .001 off the washer so that it could be installed without breaking anything... if you need to time an aftermarket flash hider use the peelible washers.. thanx for your time and i hope this helps.. heres some pics of my setup at the moment
Thanks for the info. Don't want to break my receiver. I must say that is one sweet looking rifle.
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BELT_FED View Post
hey guys, ran into a prob. while installing a guys aftermarket flash suppressor... it was a a2 style and they need to be index or use a crush washer.. he sent the crush washer... these are not ment to be used with the 15-22 if you try and install them without a barrel vise you will break your reciever.. since the flash hider must be removed to install the barrel in a 15-22.. it needs to be able to be removed easily with out a barrel vise... i ended up dusting a few .001 off the washer so that it could be installed without breaking anything... if you need to time an aftermarket flash hider use the peelible washers.. thanx for your time and i hope this helps.. heres some pics of my setup at the moment
Hey belt_fed I was wondering if you could PM me a price on how much it would cost for one of those shrouds but blackened, they are threaded on right?
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:46 AM
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thanx, I really do take pride in my work.. im glad you like it
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:49 AM
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Hey Belt Fed.... i think you are in Tennessee? what part/how far from ATL? can you PM me with price/info on the full length shroud?

thanks much
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:53 AM
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im in warren co.. maybe 1.5 hours above chattanooga..
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:58 AM
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The shrouds, comps and suppressors you make are even better looking up close than they are in the pics. The photos really don't do justice to em. Need MaxiCooper to do a photo-shoot.
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChattanoogaPhil View Post
The shrouds, comps and suppressors you make are even better looking up close than they are in the pics. The photos really don't do justice to em. Need MaxiCooper to do a photo-shoot.
For real, Im goin to start on yours as soon as a get a few extra min. just to see what it looks like
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Old 01-30-2010, 01:31 PM
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Spend six bucks on a M16A1 compensator with the full bird cage. No indexing required.



Or use a strap wrench around the barrel to hold it while you tighten the compensator. Keep in mind the compensator has to come off to remove the barrel. Not sure what S&W uses, but I suspect the "A1" style.

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1911, compensator, gunsmith, m16, model 16, shroud, sig arms, springfield, suppressor

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