Anyone running the JP kits

I've got the jp3.5... which is the top spring kit took about 5min max to install and was a great inprovement... then I pulled it all back out polish the sear points and removed alittle unneeded material.. then added a set screw under the grip screw to adjust creep and its very nice about an hours work with simple tools and 10 bucks ... a lot better than 200 and have to live with what they felt was a good trigger

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Try the "AR15 15 Minute Trigger Job" first. "Don't cost nothing." Proved good enough for my M&P15-22. Doesn't compare to my Accuracy Speaks single stage trigger, though, but it's not $250 either!

-- Chuck

Also running the JP yellow springs in mine. Much better feel with pull reduced to about 1/2 of factory springs. Have shot over 10,000 rounds with no issues.

I did the poor mans trigger job and my results were so good i get to buy a whole new firing group!
Seriously, Buying premade parts that are made to do the job correctly like this item is much better than doing a job yourself on stock parts.
You can only go so far before you get a FUBAR.

Depending on my replacement parts i buy or use these spring most likely will be on my list.

I'll have to try this spring set on my new build.

I've put the JP spring kit in all my AR's including my 1522. Prior to installing them in the 1522 I was having jams and mis-feeds (2 or 3 per mag). Since installing the JP springs I've not had a malfuction in over 400 rounds. I don't think it's coincidental but rather the bolt cycle is faster. It also provides a light, crisp trigger pull with no other mods. If you ever have to send it to S&W for repair be sure to put the factory springs back in.

I never dick with the sears on these rifles (nor M1911 pistols). Just cut and bent the springs and ran a little polish paste on the sear surfaces.

-- Chuck

i've got a set. improved over stock but not a ton. the thing i don't like is the yellow paint is flaking off and mixing with the oil on my FCG and making a mess of my lower. for $10 they are okay.

mike if you get some polishing compond and place it on your sear and hang on to your hammer and dry fire a few time you will be amazed at the difference... these rifle have very notchy triggers a lot of the weight is from the friction of those to surfaces... compound is cheap and and you can tell a very noticable difference.. make sure after you dry fire it several times(makeing sure your hammer doesnt strike anything) clean all the parts good to remove excess compound and then reoil

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

oh i've polished my hammer and sear. my original 15 min trigger job was much better than the JP spring kit but my pins were walking because of how i bent the springs. because the receiver walls are thicker than on an AR i couldn't use anti-walk pins (unless i wanted to modify a set of KNS and i didn't). no big deal. i'll put another 1000 rounds through and remove the FCG for a good spring cleaning. it's all good.

For lurkers:

No need to bend the hammer spring, just lob off the right leg 1/4" from the hammer. Insert the trigger pin in so the groove is on the left and the hammer spring will hold it securely, exactly as it did when it had two legs.

I've been using this system for decades and the only reason I can determine why they make anti-walk pins is because people will buy them. As unnecessary as a full length recoil spring guide on a M1911 and they sell lots of those too!

-- Chuck

Yes - I use them on all my AR's. I also suggest that you lighten the hammer by removing the "tail" - which is unnecessary on a semi auto rifle. The lighten hammer ensures reliable ignition with lighter springs. JP sells its own "speed hammer" - but you can use a stock one and modify it yourself. Take a look at the JP speed hammer and you can use it as a model for your mods.

Note that these mods DO NOT include touching any of the engagement surfaces. Bad juju.

I've shot over 12k through various AR's with these springs [and the lightened hammer] - both 3 gun and defensive rifles - with no issues.

I used jewelers rouge in oil on the contact surfaces and worked it for a couple of hours while watching TV. The unbelievably gravelly trigger pull smoothed out nicely thus far. I am going to try the yellow springs on my MP15 and my MP15-22. The trigger in the MP15 was very nice from the factory so I was surprised at how rough the trigger was on the MP15-22; it is not what I was expecting.

In the end I thank S&W for not finishing the ignition parts on the MP15-22, and I am very happy to finish and tune the parts myself. I can tell you that you can get fantastic results without spending big $ on new parts.

I have a couple of $200+ triggers to compare to my efforts on the MP15-22.

I have three AR's in addition to the 15-22 and none of their fire control parts were as bad as the 15-22 was out of the box. It was extremely gritty and had a ton of creep. After shooting just a few rounds I switched it out with a set on which I had done the 15 minute job and the improvement was unbelievable.

It is amazing the negative affect a lousy trigger pull has on the ability to shoot accurately.

On a related note, I mentioned in a different thread that I took a Rock River two-stage out of a different AR and tried it in the 15-22. It didn't work. Upon firing, when the bolt retracted under recoil, it hung up in its rearward position. It appeared to be caused by pressure from the hammer on the underside of the bolt.

I have used both "15 minute" triggers and Rock River replacements in my AR's. I like a single stage trigger, but the RR 2-stage is hard to beat for smoothness. After becoming accustomed to the first stage take-up it becomes a natural action to reach the the second stage where the release is as smooth as butter!

Before installing JP springs hose them off with brake cleaner. It will take the yellow off.

'
I just put one of those JP trigger spring kits in my MP15-22. ($8.95 plus S&H) I took the time to polish the sear points also. I'm not a gun smith by any means, and found it very easy to do. I did the entire job in under an hour(5 min removal and install, and 55 mins polishing and goofing off). Probably spent to much time polishing, but it was worth it. The "creep" is mostly gone. The trigger pull is crisp and sharp. I would recommend this upgrade to all.

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Timman
Semper Fi

I agree, they do make a difference you can feel, but not that much. I just put a set in mine last weekend and had absolutely no FTF's, or FTE's. That stock trigger is a beast though !!

I replaced my "15 Minute Trigger Job" (bent and cut standard springs) with the JP "Yellow Spring" setup.

Can't notice any difference. Both setups are reliable in my rifle.

I left the JP springs in the rifle anyway. The JP spring set is "turn key," just replace the OEM springs.

-- Chuck

For someone who has no clue, could someone explain about polishing the hammer and sear....where, how much and if you leave the lower assembled or not. Step by step instructions. Thank you.

Google the "15 minute AR15 trigger job." It covers polishing the sear surfaces.

You need the trigger group out of the rifle to change or modify the springs and the polish job is done with the parts out.

-- Chuck