I just got the reduced power (yellow) spring kit in and it says will work correctly w/ a properly prepped sear and hammer notch. Thought I could just drop it in, so what do I need to do to get this kit functioning correctly. Thanks in advance.

if your just looking for about half the the weight trigger as the stock trigger just install the springs... if you want the 3.5lbs they advertise you will need to do some light polishing of the sear surfaces(hammer notch and the triggers leading edge)... install them and see what you think if your not happy.. grab some polishing compoud and apply it to the before mentions surfaces hold your hammer between your fingers and do not let the hammer hit anything, while your watching tv, trip the hammer over and over to "work these to surfaces together".. this simulates many 1000 rounds with only a few pulls with the compound in place... clean regularly and lube to feel your progress.. if it still doesnt feel the way you want you have two choices you can remove your trigger group and lightly sand the 2 surfaces that we mentioned with 2000+ grit paper always going in the direction the trigger rubs the hammer notch and do not change the angles they r on or you can call rock river and ask them to send you a trigger group...

do not grind on the trigger or hammer it doesnt take much to change the feel of the trigger and check your progress often ... trigger work is like playing with nitrous people get greedy and mess stuff up.. take it slow... and youll be fine.. look around on youtube for videos on ar15s they r the same as the 15-22.. there are some great vids people have put together

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Thanks Beltfed, giving it a shot.

if you dont feel comfy doing it the best advice is dont do it.. but its not a big deal to get a decent trigger this way.... like i said the videos are great

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

My best advice is DON'T take trigger advice from me!

Said the wise man.

Hopefully my new used trigger parts get here soon so i can stop loading my 15/22 as a single shot.

OK. Got it installed, seems to function properly. Really like the difference. REALLY!! One question though. Is the saftey in-operable while the hammer is de-cocked? I forgot to check that before I disassembled and I removed it after removing the hammer, so it came out fine. However, I could not put the safety back in with the hammer cocked. If that is how it operates then all is well. Thanks.

the safty shouldnt work if the hammer is forward but if its cocked meaning its down then yes it should work.. why did you remove the safety anyway

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Great then everythings in working order, and thanks for the super quick responses. I'm really happy with the difference. I took the safety out because I haven't cleaned inside the lower since I bought it. Probably won't again for a few thousand more rds and won't remove the safety until someone comes out with a tacticool accessory to replace it. It's my meticulous cleaning habits I can't seem to resist.

glad you like it.. a mirror finish on all the trigger parts is about the same jump from stock springs to the jp kit very nice... you really dont ind the creep as much when its like glass

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

fill her full lol

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Oh yeh will you come visit me? The RO at the Ohio DNR range i use i think was onto me when i tested it with just 2 rounds as he set up a chair up the hill directly behind me. Granted i was in the middle of the whole range, Maybe paranoid a bit also.
I knew it may happen as to why i tried loading it with only 2 rounds.

It will make for a fun squirrel trigger group when i visit family in the back hills of WV, I hope i can find a paw or a tail to fry up.

I did this mod; polished the trigger/sear surfaces smooth as glass, and installed the yellow JP springs and the rifle is completely transformed.

I then cleaned the sear/trigger contact points and put some militec-1 there. It feels like oiled glass all the way to a pretty clean break. Not perfect, but not too far from it. The stock M&P15 (5.56) trigger is still better than the tuned M&P15-22 trigger but only because it (15-22 trigger) has more travel.

I ordered two sets of JP yellow springs and put the other set on my M&P15. Can't wait to get to the range!!!!

I also purchased the JP yellow springs and installed them last weekend. Have not had a chance to shoot it yet to see how much of a difference it has made. You can see and feel that the trigger spring and hammer spring are not as strong as the stock parts when working them by hand. This would make sense in reducing the trigger pull. I was wondering though if anyone knows why the small coil spring for the disconnect is different? It is actually a heavier spring than the factory spring. When cycling the hammer by hand it now seems to take more force to engage the disconnect.

Who has the best price plus shipping on this kit?
Brownell's, Midway, Ebay?

im curious on the disconnect spring too...??...

im currently on the JP spring... should i be using the stock disconnect spring???

thanks

MidwayUSA=$16 shipped. $10 for the kit, $3 for shipping, and $3 for special handling????? But their on backorder right now, week or so is predicted time they'll have 'em in stock. Took 4 days for delivery, not bad.

my kit came straight from j&p... the disconect spring in the kit needs to be used... its spring weight is matched to the hammer and trigger spring weight to ensure that the disconnect and trigger reset works properly

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

I looked it up on Brownell's and it looks like $15 shipped which isn't bad.

Disconnector spring tension is increased to compensate for the reduced hammer spring.

I ordered the kit from Brownell's and received it within 3 business days. I chose the light package delivery option.

A little hint: I don't know if the hammer in a Smith AR is full-weight, with a "tail," but if it is, you might want to cut off the tail and lighten the hammer. With the lighter springs, you'll get a much faster lock time with the lighter hammer, and your hammer and trigger engagement surfaces won't take as much of a beating, nor will the disconnector. Therefore, your nice trigger pull will last longer before it starts doubling.

I've put in lots of JP triggers, hammers, and springs, and for a quickie job, I usually just use a spring kit and a JP hammer with the stock trigger. The JP hammer is much lighter than a milspec AR hammer. If you want to REALLLLLLY get spoiled, do the whole JP kit. My JP upper/AA lower 6.5 Grendel has one I put in, and its trigger is just under 3 lbs. and very crisp.

I appreciate threads like this being at our disposal and thanks. I just installed my JP springs and done some minimal polishing. Certainly worth the little effort it takes since it does make a huge improvement. +1 on this mod.

How good is the kit with the Speed Hammer?

Has anybody had any light-strike/primer ignition issues with the JP kit?

ive put a stupid amount of rds threw mine with no issuse at all

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Revitalizing an old JP Springs Kit thread for more instruction... I've watched Brett's 'Fire Control Group' videos and they make me much more comfortable thinking about replacing my springs (yes I'm a novice) but I hope to get a couple answers from you guys still...

Brett mentioned the factory springs don't fall off, and that you actually will bend them to get them off. Do the JP Springs slip on nicely; I won't have to really bend them to get them on right?

Also if I decide to do the polishing like BeltFed mentioned, would someone please point out the parts that I am to put polish on (in the pic attached) and just exactly how I am suppose to polish it? It sounds like I'm rubbing the pieces together after putting a compound on them?

Sorry if these are silly questions, but I look forward to a nicer pull! I also asked a buddy about this polishing and he's wondering what exactly it does? Does it shorten the creep? Or?

Thanks fellas!

Attached Images

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on the leading edge of your trigger you will see 2 machined surfaces(aka shiney) those need to be cleaned up.. easiest way to do that is some 1000 + grit sand paper with alittle wd40 on it lay it on a flat surface then move the trigger back and forth holding the trigger on the same angle as the metal is cutt you dont want to change this angle just clean the machine marks out of it... the other surface is right off the centerline of the hammer pin on the back almost underside of the hammer... if its installed you will see that this is where the leading edge of the trigger hooks into it.. hope this makes since... and you dont wanna get to happy with it just enough to clean the surfaces up

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

I have the JP trigger kit(no hammer) and it breaks decently. I have been happy with it. It breaks closer to 4#. But much better than the stock trigger. I think it was $125. It was def worth it.

I now have switch it out from another of my AR and put in a timney skel 3#. Big difference. I was having issues with timney adjusting under heat from a suppressor, so I switched.

I did try the JP spring kit only and I personally was not happy. For the price you can not beat it. But the trigger kit made the biggest difference.

just installed the JP spring kit. The trigger feels so much better to me now, can't wait to go shoot this weekend!