I have heard lots of talk about folks polishing certain surfaces of there triggers in hopes of lightening the trigger pull. Does anyone have a link to a good thread, or even better yet a link to a youtube video of someone showing what surfaces need to be polished, and how to do it?

Thanks

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Paracordwraps

Polishing the sear engagement surfaces does not lessen the trigger pull, it makes the release more "smooth". If you want to lighten the trigger pull you need to do the 15 minute trigger job or replace the springs entirely.

Here's a great video: YouTube - AR 15 Trigger Job ( How To break in / tweaking ) HD

Thanks for the link Brett. I have heard a lot of talk also about these JP springs, is there any difference in the yellow JP springs than in the "new" blue springs that S&W is installing in the newer rifles?

What is better, the "15 minute trigger job" or just replacing the springs with something like the yellow JP springs.

Thanks

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Paracordwraps

Hard to say, I've never used the JP spring kit. I think my trigger feels fine with the Youtube trigger job I did.

Ok, maybe I will give it a go.

Thanks

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Paracordwraps

I'm sure the JP yellow spring guys will chime in, there are a few of them here.. Springs are cheap, it's certainly worth trying!

I didn't have the sound turned up on that video because the wife is watching TV, but I didn't really see where he polished anything. Does he do any polishing on it?

Thanks

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Paracordwraps

Do NOT get the urge to take any material off and then polish it thinking it will make it lighter and a shorter pull.
Well it does work and the pull is so light and short because it most likley wont work correctly ever again.

I don't think ive read where anyone compared the blue springs to the JP springs, Id put my money on the JP giving a lighter pull tho.

The 15 minute trigger job where you bend and cut a spring works well with stock springs, But id suggest not cutting the one hammer spring they say too. Just bend it like the other one and it will give the same results.

I just received a new-ish set of DPS trigger parts as i didn't pay attention to my own advice about not grinding on trigger parts. Anyhow they had rather deep machining parts and took a pretty long time to polish out with 1500 grit, I stopped at one point when just 3 little marks were left and thought id try it out as i wanted to see if just those 3 small marks could be felt. It actually felt worse than when i started as before the whole face had them and was uniform with machine marks as they are even across the face.
But those 3 marks felts like gravel in my trigger pull. So you need it almost Mirror polished.

To lighten a pull below 3 lbs and have a shorter pull i highly suggest an expensive 2 stage trigger.

Thanks Das, yeah I dont plan on grinding on anything. I am just curious to know what should/could be polished to clean the trigger up a bit.

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Paracordwraps

I did watch the video with sound finally, and it seems pretty easy, but IMO doesnt really seen like a great way of going about doing trigger work. Again, JMO

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Paracordwraps

Then you definitely want the JP set of springs.
Then if you want try the spring bending route as you don't need the old springs anymore and compare the difference.

In that video he isn't polishing anything he is wearing the parts together using compound... if you want a decent trigger cheap.. buy the 10 dollar set of jp trigger springs and while you have the trigger out take a piece of 1000 grit paper or better and lay it on a flat surface.. take the trigger and turn it upside down so the top edge is facing down do not try and change any angles or even remove material all you wanna do is remove the maching marks... as soon as you start sanding you will see them only move the trigger back and forth the way the sear roles off it... once this is complete stand the trigger up on its leading edge once again the goal is not to remove material only remover the maching marks by moving the trigger back and forth on the paper in the same direction as the sear roles off... its very important that u move the part on the paper and the paper is on a flat smooth surface and keep the part flat to the paper don't try and changew angles... now for the hammer... leaving the paper on the table.. take the hammer in your hands starting at the sear surface role the hammer and pull it to you at the same time... all your trying to do here is clean this surface up and remove a little of the hump before the sear then lightly sand the sear surface just enough to clean it up... then take the hammer and trigger and just lightly round the 2 sharp corners you have made.. if they are left sharp they will not be as smooth and will act like a knife on the other surface .. again you don't wanna cap a radius on these edges just knock the sharp edge off... if you own a dremal, a felt tool, and some compound now would be the time to polish these parts....

Again don't do anything you feel like is out of your skill level but as long as you don't remove material all you do is smooth out machine marks you will not have any problems...I hope this helps anyone that wanted to know

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NRA Instructor

Before you remove the trigger assembly pull the trigger a few times, DON'T LET THE HAMMER SLAM FORWARD, then install the spring kit and repeat. Should notice the difference.

Has anyone tried bending the J&P spring?

+1 on Belt Fed's comments. I've tried both the "15 minute trigger job" and the JP reduced power springs. The reduction of trigger pull was noticable and felt about the same using either method. I am currently using the JP springs. Lightly polishing (don't remove any material) the trigger/sear surfaces eleminated the "gritty" feel of the trigger. I am no gunsmith but was able to do the work easily. As I disassembled the fire control group I took a few pics to make sure everything was put back correctly, but ended up not needing them. My advice would be to spend the $10 on the JP springs and do some light polishing. You will like the results!

I did the 15 min job and then ordered the springs. The springs feel better to me but that's just me.

No not that i know of, But ill tell you this.
I did the 15 minute job and it felt good, I expect my JP springs to feel as good also.
But heres where it gets odd. In a previous post i reported about my botched trigger job and during that whole fiasco i did some spring alterations far beyond the what the 15 minute job does in an attempt to get the timing corrected on the botched parts.

I took 1 whole winding from the hammer spring and straightened it out. Stock the spring has 3 coils, Mine now has 2. Then i bought all new trigger parts minus springs.
With a mirror polish job on all the parts and the pretravel adjusted out my trigger feels as good as what id expect a 2 stage trigger could. But for free.

The point im getting at is my hammer spring is alot weaker than what a JP spring with the 15 minute job done to it would have power wise. Ive fully tested it with NO lite primer strikes.

Since im so used to the lite springs i have now when my JP set shows up i may be doing the 15 minute job style bends to it also. You can always bend it back or buy another for $10 if i don't like it.

I wouldn't attempt this with a speed hammer tho, I don't think it would have enough impact power with bent JP springs.

You may ask "Why you buying JP springs if you have such lite and working springs now?" well they look like they have been run over by a lawn mower they were bent so many times and straightening out that 3rd coil makes it even more ugly.

So in the end, Yes im 98% sure a 15 minute job done to the JP springs will work just fine.
If i feel mines added to much pull when they show up in the next 2 days ill be bending mine myself.

I ain't skeered to screw things up.
But id bet i have the best trigger here on a 15/22 that doesn't have a 2 stage trigger on it.
3mm pull at about 2 lbs and a very short reset thats smooth as glass.
But ive screwed stuff up to get to that point also, Nothing is ever free.

I found this link helpful. About halfway down the page.
Google Image Result for http://shanedaughtry.com/images/Polish%20Sear.gif

I've found cutting off a couple of coils on the rebound spring and taking a dremel to the parts is the best way to go.

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Thanks DasFriek, I keep checking!

ok.. ill take that bet

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor