feedback on AR-15 DROP-IN TRIGGER ADJUSTER

[dvang]

any have feedback on AR-15 DROP-IN TRIGGER ADJUSTER..

im particularly looking at this one

AR-15 DROP-IN TRIGGER ADJUSTER $20 Shipped - AR15.COM

my understanding is it preloads the trigger a bit removing the some creep.. if im wrong please enlighten me.. also if youve used a similiar/same product did it remove quite a bit of creep?



thanks

[chuck s]

Gimmicks like this are just that: gimmicks. And a safety hazard.

There in no 'pre-travel" in this trigger, the sear is moving with and is part of the trigger. All these devices do is prevent the sear from fully engaging -- partially pull the trigger in other words. Maybe safe on a benchrest rifle that's always pointed down range, but these are just begging for an "accidental" discharge otherwise.

-- Chuck

[BeginingOfTheEnd]

I'd try a spring replacement first. Could take a couple 3 lbs off. Your not loosing much if you don't like it as most good kits cost around $10-$20.

[spoolinitup33]

It seems like this would work to me. There is some creep to these triggers. I'm pretty sure BELT_FED has done this to his gun.

[BELT_FED]

Originally Posted by chuck s

Gimmicks like this are just that: gimmicks. And a safety hazard.

There in no 'pre-travel" in this trigger, the sear is moving with and is part of the trigger. All these devices do is prevent the sear from fully engaging -- partially pull the trigger in other words. Maybe safe on a benchrest rifle that's always pointed down range, but these are just begging for an "accidental" discharge otherwise.

-- Chuck

There is no difference between what this gimmick does and what the setscrews on a aftermarket trigger does.. I just used a setscrew to remove some of the creep on my trigger.. if you pull the trigger on these guns and watch the hammer the trigger pulls it down several thousand.. my trigger still fully enguages it just doesn't allow the hammer to roll as far around so I don't have to fight the hammer spring to pull the trigger

[BeginingOfTheEnd]

Originally Posted by BELT_FED

There is no difference between what this gimmick does and what the setscrews on a aftermarket trigger does.. I just used a setscrew to remove some of the creep on my trigger.. if you pull the trigger on these guns and watch the hammer the trigger pulls it down several thousand.. my trigger still fully enguages it just doesn't allow the hammer to roll as far around so I don't have to fight the hammer spring to pull the trigger

Spring replacements like the jp spring kit don't remove any travel, it just lightens the load, correct? I have one on the way, I know it reduces lbs and was assuming that's how it functions.

[BELT_FED]

You r correct.. it will make the creep less noticable also..

[chuck s]

If you want a better trigger get the Rock River two stage. No need to jimmy the sear for it to work safely. Using a setscrew to partially disengage the sear permanently is just asking for trouble. Especially for amateur gunsmiths and shooters like the vast majority of us here.

-- Chuck

[spoolinitup33]

Originally Posted by chuck s

Using a setscrew to partially disengage the sear permanently is just asking for trouble. Especially for amateur gunsmiths and shooters like the vast majority of us here.

-- Chuck

No it is not. It's not like it's just going to go off all the sudden, unless you pull the trigger. It's just making it to where you don't have to pull the trigger as far for the sears to disengage.

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Originally Posted by chuck s

If you want a better trigger get the Rock River two stage. No need to jimmy the sear for it to work safely. Using a setscrew to partially disengage the sear permanently is just asking for trouble. Especially for amateur gunsmiths and shooters like the vast majority of us here.

-- Chuck

Is that the one for $120?

Rock River Arms: NM Two Stage Trigger

[Brett248Vista]

I'll stick with my stock trigger. I pull it and the rifle goes BANG! and then this happens:



Works for me

[spoolinitup33]

Originally Posted by Brett248Vista

I'll stick with my stock trigger. I pull it and the rifle goes BANG! and then this happens:



Works for me

It's more fun when you don't have to pull the trigger so hard for it to go bang

[Brett248Vista]

I don't have to pull mine hard.. it works great! Maybe you all just have sissy fingers! :P

[BELT_FED]

Well I had to lighten mine I was getting a blister on my foot from the trigger guard...lol

[dvang]

i ordered one so we'll see how it goes... will put up a review when installed.. jp springs already installed, just looking to get rid of some not all creep..

[chuck s]

Yes, that's the one. I have this trigger in two rifles and it's "drop in" with no adjustments needed. Worked well in my M&P15-22 as well, but the stock trigger is just fine after the spring tweaks in the AR15 15 Minute Trigger Job. I'll spend the $120 on more ammo!

I have to admit the M&P15-22 has the only stock trigger of my rifles. Accuracy Speaks in my M4, and ArmaLite and Rock River two-stage in the others.

-- Chuck

[DasFriek]

Ive been meaning to comment on this thread and kept forgetting.
Its common practice to adjust pretravel and overtravel on target and range guns. Besides as a hunting gun i see no other uses that doing this would be an issue, Your gun has a manual safety.

I know Belt-Fed says he used a set screw, I prefer shims as they aren't permanent and can be removed without a trace if i sell the gun.
I started with polishing everything all mirror like, Then set out to adjust the pretravel.
Id say i added 3mm of shim under the trigger where this part in the OP's thread would hit the underside of the trigger also.

I have a JP spring set coming, But have a very light set on it now i been working with.

The gun still has a 3mm trigger pull which is about 2x less than stock, But its more consistent as its already in the process of pulling the hammer back instead of just starting too. You have to watch your trigger system work if you don't know what im talking about.

Now heres where it gets odd. I don't know the range of adjustment this "gadget" setscrew for sell has. But i had to replace my disconnecter spring with a shorter one to allow the disconnecter to not jamb up sitting so high now.

Next issue is the safety, It will NOT fully engage with lots of pretravel taken out as much as i did. Luckily S&W used plastic for the safety lever and you need to grind the flat area down about 1.5mm so it will fully engage when cocked.
I have a spare metal DPS lever if i need to return it to stock.

My gun is a range/target gun and maybe some hunting this fall for tree rats. So AD's don't worry me, I don't do this with my "work" guns like my HD and CCW.
The gun is just as safe as a stock gun imo, Unless slammed on the concrete or dropped 2 stories from a building.

But basically i have the feel and pull of a 2 stage trigger without the costs.
Nice 3mm length pull with no over travel.
Consistent 2lb pressure.

To say the item for sale is dangerous is misinformed.
But the part also isnt just "plug and play" you may need fine tuning on other items.

[chuck s]

The item is dangerous and I'm well informed.

The safety on the M16/AR15 controls the trigger and the sear is at the front of the trigger. Any pull of the trigger, partial or otherwise, loosens the sear's contact with the mating surface on the hammer. Next time you detail strip the rifle note how small the surface on the hammer really is.

With an adjustment screw partially "pulling" the trigger plus the plastic selector in the M&P15-22 the potential of an "accidental" discharge increases. Drastically.

Note the sticky Warning about not forcing the selector to Safe while the rifle is uncocked. This is because the plastic selector will wear and cause the Safe position to be less so.

"Open class" match rifles can have so-called hair triggers. They're not carried. There's a reason the Service Rifle championships insist on a 4.5 pound minimum trigger pull. It's to mimic the minimum safe trigger pull for rifles that are carried -- and is still darn light!

There are better (much better) ways to get a 4.5 pound trigger on your AR15 or M&P15 than dicking with the sear engagement.

-- Chuck

[dvang]

i got an email and a pm about this item so heres an update.

my impressions, it worked and is worth the 20bucks shipped to me...

id say its still safe, it just took some play out. dropped the gun on the buttstock constantly to see if it would let the trigger loose seems good to go. As with any firearm just put safety first.

i also added some jp springs and gave it a very light polish to remove castings and am happy with the results. This was before the adjustment screw.

im satisfied with the results im sure it might not compare to an aftermarket trigger goup but at 30 bucks spent I cant complain.

[DasFriek]

I know with the JP springs and the shim method i used which does the same thing as this my trigger is very nice.
To get a better pull would require a 2 stage setup.

[gnut]

Originally Posted by BELT_FED

There is no difference between what this gimmick does and what the setscrews on a aftermarket trigger does.. I just used a setscrew to remove some of the creep on my trigger.. if you pull the trigger on these guns and watch the hammer the trigger pulls it down several thousand.. my trigger still fully enguages it just doesn't allow the hammer to roll as far around so I don't have to fight the hammer spring to pull the trigger

BELT-FED, I have installed jp springs and polished a bit with plastic cleaner but I went back and confirmed your observation. When you have a chance could you email me some suggestions on how to set the set screw to avoid fighting the hammer spring and still have the trigger fully enguaged. Thanks for the great info.

[gnut]

I just got this response from Brownells about sear engagement with the set screw.

"Yes the Trigger Adjuster will reduce sear engagement.

Eric Kiesler
Tech Support Gunsmith
Brownells Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 8:59 AM
To: Niesje Licht
Subject: Brownells Website Support Contact

Customer Name: EDWARD TUTTLE
Customer Email: [email protected]
Department: GunTech
Order ID:
Message:
Does the AR-15 Drop-In Trigger Adjuster actually reduce sear engaugement? I am planning it for a S&W 15-22 which when engaging the trigger the trigger slightly moves the hammer more rearward thus I am pulling against the hammer spring. I am concerned about the safety of this device if it reduces sear engaugement. Thanks for your help

[BELT_FED]

That is some what BS. I say this because that depends completely on the specs of a trigger.. if you took a match trigger and hammer then I would agree that it would reduce engagement, but with a stock trigger there is extra play in those parts. If you pull the trigger on a match trigger the hammer moves very little before it tripps the sear. On a 15-22 the hammer moves probably .030" down before it trips... I just pulled my trigger out of my rifle to check and see if I was messing with the complete enguagement of the sear... Where I had polished my trigger you can see exactly how much of the trigger engages the sear . Suprise when I threw a set of calipers on the marks and then check the deapth of the sear they were the same.. the reason the hammer is pulled down during the pulling of the trigger is because the trigger is over enguaging and rolling around to far.. hope this helps, if I need to I can post pics

[shooter1950]

Originally Posted by DasFriek

Ive been meaning to comment on this thread and kept forgetting.
Its common practice to adjust pretravel and overtravel on target and range guns. Besides as a hunting gun i see no other uses that doing this would be an issue, Your gun has a manual safety.

I know Belt-Fed says he used a set screw, I prefer shims as they aren't permanent and can be removed without a trace if i sell the gun.
I started with polishing everything all mirror like, Then set out to adjust the pretravel.
Id say i added 3mm of shim under the trigger where this part in the OP's thread would hit the underside of the trigger also.

I have a JP spring set coming, But have a very light set on it now i been working with.

The gun still has a 3mm trigger pull which is about 2x less than stock, But its more consistent as its already in the process of pulling the hammer back instead of just starting too. You have to watch your trigger system work if you don't know what im talking about.

Now heres where it gets odd. I don't know the range of adjustment this "gadget" setscrew for sell has. But i had to replace my disconnecter spring with a shorter one to allow the disconnecter to not jamb up sitting so high now.

Next issue is the safety, It will NOT fully engage with lots of pretravel taken out as much as i did. Luckily S&W used plastic for the safety lever and you need to grind the flat area down about 1.5mm so it will fully engage when cocked.
I have a spare metal DPS lever if i need to return it to stock.

.

What did you use for a shim?

[dvang]

Originally Posted by gnut

BELT-FED, I have installed jp springs and polished a bit with plastic cleaner but I went back and confirmed your observation. When you have a chance could you email me some suggestions on how to set the set screw to avoid fighting the hammer spring and still have the trigger fully enguaged. Thanks for the great info.

Adjust the set screw, when it starts to bind back it up a bit. I also used some tread lock on the screw. Mines been working great still.