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  #1  
Old 08-11-2010, 03:54 PM
adn adn is offline
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Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?  
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Default Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?

I am a new 15-22 owner with a question. I just bought a 15-22 with blue bolt and trigger springs serial # DTZxxxx. I have about 500 rounds through it and I would say the trigger is not that bad. The pull is about 6-7 pounds with a little bit of creep. I have done absolutely nothing to the trigger. I know that a little strategic polishing will eliminate the creep, but will replacing the trigger springs with the JP set really make a significant change in my trigger?

Last edited by adn; 08-11-2010 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:19 PM
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It's really a matter of preference, but personally I think it's the best $10 I've spent on my 15-22. I did not have blue springs in mine though, so I can't offer a comparative that would really apply
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:57 PM
straight-shooter straight-shooter is offline
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I've had the standard springs, blue springs and the JP springs.

The blue springs are only about a pound lighter than the standard and YES the JP springs in my opinion make a nice difference and definitely worth the $10. Add a little polishing and your set.

I just used Flitz on the contact surfaces of the trigger and repeatedly worked the trigger till I gained the results I was looking for. Just take the upper off of the lower and block the hammer with your hand when pulling the trigger each time.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:05 PM
CajunMouseSniper CajunMouseSniper is offline
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Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?  
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+1 on the springs. I also have an older model that did not come with the blue springs, but the JP's reduced my pull noticably. Ranks right up there with a Hogue grip as the best accessories I've purchased so far.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:30 PM
whoppo whoppo is offline
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Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?  
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Quote:
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+1 on the springs. I also have an older model that did not come with the blue springs, but the JP's reduced my pull noticably. Ranks right up there with a Hogue grip as the best accessories I've purchased so far.
Geez.. I have a Hogue AR grip 'round here someplace that I've never used... might have to poke around and find that thing.
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:15 PM
adn adn is offline
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Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?  
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straight-shooter-
To polish the hammer/sear do you have to take the firing apparatus apart completely, lift the hammer off the frame (partially disassemble the firing apparatus), or just put a little polish on the hammer surface after pulling the trigger (no firing apparatus disassembly required)with the upper removed?
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:39 PM
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Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?  
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Quote:
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straight-shooter-
To polish the hammer/sear do you have to take the firing apparatus apart completely, lift the hammer off the frame (partially disassemble the firing apparatus), or just put a little polish on the hammer surface after pulling the trigger (no firing apparatus disassembly required)with the upper removed?
I suppose you could smear a little polish in there with a toothpick or something and "work" the surfaces several hundred times... something to do while watching a movie perhaps.

It's really very simple to remove the entire fire control group though. All you need is a 1/8" drift / punch and then you have full access to the surfaces of the sear. A dremel tool with a soft polishing wheel does the trick in just a few minutes. Just make sure you don't grind away at it as you don't want to change the geometry of the surfaces.

And of course while you're got it apart, it's the perfect opportunity to throw in a $10 set of JP springs

Check out the instructional videos in the stickied thread.. it's really not hard.
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:15 PM
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Probably every recently made AR15 can benefit from trigger work, the M&P15-22 is no exception. Be especially careful dicking with the sear surfaces, they're only surface hardened and if you cut thru that layer the soft under material will wear rapidly and leave you with a hammer worse than you started.

Removal of the fire control parts is as simple as knocking out the two pins. Hammer first, then trigger. Leave the selector alone. Try the "AR15 10 minute trigger job" while waiting for your JP yellow spring set. Only costs you a little time.

Use a slave pin to reassemble the trigger assembly of your M16 or AR15:





-- Chuck
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:16 PM
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I just used a tooth pick and smeared some flitz on the contact surfaces and cocked and pulled the trigger about 20 times. Then I re-applied some more flitz again. I went through this routine about 6 times totaling 120 trigger pulls and the gritty feeling of the trigger went away.
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:25 PM
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I know nothing about the AR's, but today I watched impossible shots. Michelac (sp?) was performing his majic with a 15-22. He said the gun was (basically) stock except for the trigger. It had a gold colored trigger. I'm not sure what that means, but it sounded like it WAS NOT a S&W part.
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:52 PM
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good guess



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Originally Posted by duckloads View Post
I know nothing about the AR's, but today I watched impossible shots. Michelac (sp?) was performing his majic with a 15-22. He said the gun was (basically) stock except for the trigger. It had a gold colored trigger. I'm not sure what that means, but it sounded like it WAS NOT a S&W part.
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:11 PM
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It depends on what you find as acceptable. Me? I can deal with 5-8 lbs if it's crisp. My (blue springs) stock trigger felt like it had sand in it. Far from crisp.

I put the yellow JP springs in it and did some light polishing, and it's a little lighter, and a little smoother, but still some distance from "acceptable." It's still significantly worse than my stock .223 AR trigger (unaltered mil-spec parts).
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:36 PM
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i just did the "10 min." trigger job list night, new jp springs and alittle honning, (not much). it really made the trigger alot smoother and also lighter.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:41 AM
thart90 thart90 is offline
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Hey guys i'm new to this forum, and also new to the S&W M&P 15-22, and AR's for that matter. I just had a question hopefully you guys could help me out with. Is the 15-22 lower mil-spec? say for example if i wanted to swap the trigger, or just change some things with the stock trigger to get a lighter trigger pull, would mil-spec components be compatable?
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:00 AM
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The trigger suits me just fine on mine, and it releases at 5.25 lbs. consistently.
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:39 AM
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Ok lets get a few things correct. When people are talking in general about the "blue" springs in the 15-22 they are not talking about the trigger springs. They are talking about the the recoil spring on top of the bolt that was part of the recall/upgrade of the 15-22 to cure the OOB firings during the first year of production. However in the contect of JP FCG springs the "blue" set is the standard AR set, the "yellow" is the reduced power set and "red" is the extra power set.
So if you install a set of the "yellows" and get any light strikes or failure to fire, the correct thing to do it to put the "blue" hammer spring back in. That will give you a lighter trigger pull and a harder strike on the case rim. JP actually sells a kit with a "yellow" trigger spring and a "red" hammer spring for those with real ARs that want a lighter pull but who might use Russian ammo, which has the harder Russian primers in them.
Me I either use a Geissele Super 3-Gun trigger or an RRA National Match trigger in my ARs or 15-22 depending on what I set the gun up to shoot. An ALG trigger is a standard AR trigger that has been reworked by Geissele to clean up all the creep and other issues, but still leave it at the US military's 6# or greater trigger pull. That way any of our soldiers who want to upgrade his trigger can do it and still have it meet the mil-spec standard.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoracer View Post
Ok lets get a few things correct. When people are talking in general about the "blue" springs in the 15-22 they are not talking about the trigger springs. They are talking about the the recoil spring on top of the bolt that was part of the recall/upgrade of the 15-22 to cure the OOB firings during the first year of production. However in the contect of JP FCG springs the "blue" set is the standard AR set, the "yellow" is the reduced power set and "red" is the extra power set.
So if you install a set of the "yellows" and get any light strikes or failure to fire, the correct thing to do it to put the "blue" hammer spring back in. That will give you a lighter trigger pull and a harder strike on the case rim. JP actually sells a kit with a "yellow" trigger spring and a "red" hammer spring for those with real ARs that want a lighter pull but who might use Russian ammo, which has the harder Russian primers in them.
Me I either use a Geissele Super 3-Gun trigger or an RRA National Match trigger in my ARs or 15-22 depending on what I set the gun up to shoot. An ALG trigger is a standard AR trigger that has been reworked by Geissele to clean up all the creep and other issues, but still leave it at the US military's 6# or greater trigger pull. That way any of our soldiers who want to upgrade his trigger can do it and still have it meet the mil-spec standard.
well said... me i just slap a Geissele in and call it a day...SD3G in my 15-22, SD-C to try out in my Colt and everything else got a SSA

Edit... forgot about the ALG ACT in my Retro-ish CAR15... not a bad trigger for the money.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:36 AM
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I purchased JP reduced pull springs for my 15-22 PC.. but after using the rifle a while.. the trigger pull seems fine out of the box.. so I never ended up using them. I may go ahead and try them in my M&P 15.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thart90 View Post
Hey guys i'm new to this forum, and also new to the S&W M&P 15-22, and AR's for that matter. I just had a question hopefully you guys could help me out with. Is the 15-22 lower mil-spec? say for example if i wanted to swap the trigger, or just change some things with the stock trigger to get a lighter trigger pull, would mil-spec components be compatable?
No, the M&P 15-22 lower is not mil-spec, but you can use mil-spec trigger groups and they will fit and work fine.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:24 AM
Garand Man Garand Man is offline
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Out of my 6 15-22's...
The best trigger out of the box so far...has been on the Performance Center rifle... it has a 2 stage match trigger in it... and it is NICE.!!!!!

All of the other stock ones have felt gritty, and some are heavy...so they will all get a 10 minute polish on them... then I will go from there as to changing out springs or parts...

HTH,
Paul
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thart90 View Post
Hey guys i'm new to this forum, and also new to the S&W M&P 15-22, and AR's for that matter. I just had a question hopefully you guys could help me out with. Is the 15-22 lower mil-spec? say for example if i wanted to swap the trigger, or just change some things with the stock trigger to get a lighter trigger pull, would mil-spec components be compatable?
No the lower isn't really "milSpec". That said, it will take any AR FCG you want to put in it. The not milSpec part is to prevent someone from putting a center-fire upper on it.

Lots a folks have after-market FCGs in their rifle, including me.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:41 PM
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That's what I used in my ar and my 15-22 the yellow and red springs and a little polishing on the advice of a local gunsmith that builds competition ar's and couldn't be happier with my trigger...
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:09 AM
Buckskinner Buckskinner is offline
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No, imo I don't think that all of them need trigger work. As a matter of fact the triggers on my 15/22's were better out of the box than my Colt AR, sad but true. The Colt was the grittiest trigger I've ever pulled. Took about 5 minutes to fix that though.

I posted a question earlier on another trigger topic wondering why guys put $ into a new trigger on a plinker gun like the 15/22 when the stock is actually pretty good. Quite a bit of creap, but smooth and reasonable pull. For the range of a 22lr, and accuracy of the 15/22 a great trigger won't get you anything a reasonable trigger will.

Again, this is the great USA, so if it tickles your fancy, go for it!
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:57 PM
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I posted a question earlier on another trigger topic wondering why guys put $ into a new trigger on a plinker gun like the 15/22 when the stock is actually pretty good. Quite a bit of creap, but smooth and reasonable pull. For the range of a 22lr, and accuracy of the 15/22 a great trigger won't get you anything a reasonable trigger will.
If one is content with a 4-5 lb trigger pull, you are correct. If one doesn't shoot speed matches, you are correct.

For someone with under 3 lb pulls on all his rifles, the factory trigger is not suitable.

Amazing that no one complains when someone puts a $300 trigger on a 10/22.

As you say, to each his own.
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:27 PM
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"All things add up" I've said before... even on the 15-22 I got my springs for five buck a set out the door... I do mod to my guns so that they're more efficient... my trigger was ok now it's better... makes me happy and hopefully I have a better shooting gun... "All things add up"...

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Old 01-25-2013, 01:45 PM
Buckskinner Buckskinner is offline
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If one is content with a 4-5 lb trigger pull, you are correct. If one doesn't shoot speed matches, you are correct.

For someone with under 3 lb pulls on all his rifles, the factory trigger is not suitable.

Amazing that no one complains when someone puts a $300 trigger on a 10/22.

As you say, to each his own.
I'm not complaining, just wondering... And I would ask the same of a 10/22.

All of my bolt guns wear Timney's and are set at 2lbs, but there again, they are also expected to shoot well under MOA, out 500 - 1000 yards depending on caliber. On a gun like the 15/22 which is 2-3 MOA it doesn't help much for accuracy.

Now speed would be another thing, there is a heck of a lot of creep in them. And if your competiting with it, gotta use every advantage out there...
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:03 PM
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Just shot my new 15-22 for the first time today and the trigger is laughably bad. Granted, I'm probably a little spoiled and don't have any prior experience with AR triggers, but the thing was so bad it was almost good in that if you squeeze very slowly, you can feel the pull weight let up right before it breaks and almost use it as a set trigger. It's not so much the weight as the huge amount of creep and inconsistency.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckskinner View Post
I'm not complaining, just wondering... And I would ask the same of a 10/22.

All of my bolt guns wear Timney's and are set at 2lbs, but there again, they are also expected to shoot well under MOA, out 500 - 1000 yards depending on caliber. On a gun like the 15/22 which is 2-3 MOA it doesn't help much for accuracy.

Now speed would be another thing, there is a heck of a lot of creep in them. And if your competiting with it, gotta use every advantage out there...
All your posts are about accuracy and i dont think anyone every mentioned anything pointing to accuracy.... We are just looking for a better trigger pull either it be from a trigger mod or a replacement trigger... I myself just like the feel of a nice smooth trigger pull with a crisp break and the standard AR platform trigger isnt it...
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:51 PM
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Default Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?

I saw a video on YouTube of a guy fixing the trigger creep by using a set screw in the screw hole for the pistol grip. Has anyone else done this? And how well does it work?


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Old 01-26-2013, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TDI Brad View Post
I saw a video on YouTube of a guy fixing the trigger creep by using a set screw in the screw hole for the pistol grip. Has anyone else done this? And how well does it work?


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Works very well, and is part of the installation of Jard triggers.
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  #31  
Old 01-26-2013, 07:11 PM
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Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work? Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?  
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Default Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?

I just got my JP springs and thought I could fix the creep too when I put them in. I was worried with the set screw in there too that there may be a problem getting the grip bolt tight enough.


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Old 01-26-2013, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Brad View Post
I just got my JP springs and thought I could fix the creep too when I put them in. I was worried with the set screw in there too that there may be a problem getting the grip bolt tight enough.


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The proper set screw is only 3/8". There's more than enough room for the grip bolt.

Springs have nothing to with creep, one way or another. Creep is a function of the engagement of the hammer and trigger hooks.

Last edited by Majorlk; 01-26-2013 at 07:35 PM.
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  #33  
Old 01-26-2013, 11:45 PM
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Default Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?

I only mentioned the JP springs because I figured while I install them I can polish the FCG and fix creep also.

So I then a 1/4"-28 x 3/8" set will do? YouTube guy said 1/4" long. I guess if 3/8" is too long I can grind some off the screw. Hopefully i can find the set screw at the store. Thanks.


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  #34  
Old 01-27-2013, 01:05 AM
Doc Robin Doc Robin is offline
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My 1st rifle and my pistol were terrible; yellow springs and a good polishing took care of them. My new rifle is much better; I was suprised how much better it feels. Ordered yellow springs for it anyway
Best upgrade for the money.
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  #35  
Old 01-27-2013, 01:13 AM
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we'll see? i just ordered 2 sets of JP springs from Brownells and was sent her(by dogzapper) to research "how can i improve my factory trigger" on my MP-15 22?
i have flitz
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  #36  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TDI Brad View Post
I only mentioned the JP springs because I figured while I install them I can polish the FCG and fix creep also.

So I then a 1/4"-28 x 3/8" set will do? YouTube guy said 1/4" long. I guess if 3/8" is too long I can grind some off the screw. Hopefully i can find the set screw at the store. Thanks.


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A 1/4" long works just fine. I just happened to have a 3/8" one laying around that I used.
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  #37  
Old 01-27-2013, 11:14 PM
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After reading the various threads and posts and watching some of the YouTube videos of trigger replacement, 15 minute trigger job, etc. I decided to take my trigger group apart and see what is looked like close up.

First, I was surprised at how much dust, grit and debris was inside the lower and on the trigger group. I removed the parts and cleaned the guts and parts with Hopps cleaner. Much nicer.
I decided to work on the trigger. Looking at it I could see the front was ridged from the grinding and the top was coated like the trigger itself.
I did not want to use my Dremel and polish because I wanted to keep the profiles and angles the same. I just wanted to polish the surfaces.
I decided to use my Lansky "fine" diamond sharpening hone I use on my knives. I felt the fine would remove material leaving a smoother surface and keep the angles the same.

It worked very well. I took my time, using a light sanding motion and only 20 strokes then checking progress. I probably polished the front with 100 strokes. The surface was smooth, shiny and grind mark free. I did the same to the top area. This area took maybe 150 strokes and is not as shiny as the front surface but nearly so and much smoother that at the start.

After reassembling and dry firing I felt a very noticeable improvement in the smoothness at the release of the hammer compared to before. I went to the range today prior to this and put 100 rounds through it so I had a very good feel for the trigger feel up to and at the release point. It is much smoother now and I can't wait to hit the range next weekend.

Thanks to everyone for their discussion on this subject and the YouTube videos which are great for watching how the parts are dis/assembled. I may try replacing the springs next.
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  #38  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:43 AM
photoracer photoracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garand Man View Post
Out of my 6 15-22's...
The best trigger out of the box so far...has been on the Performance Center rifle... it has a 2 stage match trigger in it... and it is NICE.!!!!!

All of the other stock ones have felt gritty, and some are heavy...so they will all get a 10 minute polish on them... then I will go from there as to changing out springs or parts...

HTH,
Paul
It is nice somewhat. When I first got my PC model I was not used to a 5# + trigger. Put JP Yellow springs in and it got pretty good. Then I got better and I found the trigger would not reset as fast as I could shoot in competition. Then I went to the Geissele S3G and all my issues went away. The S3G is faster than I am so I still have room to improve. Plus it matchs the trigger on my Stag 3-Gun AR.
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  #39  
Old 01-30-2013, 02:30 PM
rem06 rem06 is offline
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if i were shooting competition,i would spend a bit more that $10 on a trigger job too.For "improvement" over factory. just using" flitz" packed in there and catching the hammer 100 times or so, made a difference right away! I cant wait till the mail comes today as my JP springs from Brownells should be there?
6/25rd mags loaded and ready to rock!
now all i need to do is find some more CCI's?
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:04 AM
Krewmonkey Krewmonkey is offline
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Default HELP

I just did the 15 Minute Practical Trigger Job for the m&p 1522 and the trigger feels great however when I pull the trigger lightly, it doesn't fire. Looks like the firing pin is not hitting the hull hard enough. I can pull the trigger harder and it will fire. Any ideas on how to fix this.
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  #41  
Old 01-31-2013, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Krewmonkey View Post
I just did the 15 Minute Practical Trigger Job for the m&p 1522 and the trigger feels great however when I pull the trigger lightly, it doesn't fire. Looks like the firing pin is not hitting the hull hard enough. I can pull the trigger harder and it will fire. Any ideas on how to fix this.
Replace the hammer spring that you modified.

How hard you pull the trigger should have NO effect on how hard the hammer hits.
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  #42  
Old 01-31-2013, 11:59 AM
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Selective fire

Sorry, I had to.

That's a bummer man. Go with JP.
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  #43  
Old 01-31-2013, 02:57 PM
rem06 rem06 is offline
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Happy day! 3750 36gr cci mini mags on the way (got shipping confirmation). Springs installed and Never-seez as recomended and 200rds, no problem! so far so good!
working fine
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