Something with a cleaner break, lighter pull, and no grit. This factory trigger sucks. are all AR triggers compatible?

Standard AR FCG's will drop right in... just make sure you get the right pin diameter.

A lot of folks here, myself included, have had great results with a JP 3.5 (yellow) spring kit and just a bit of surface polishing. You can also add a set screw to adjust the "creep". For just a few bucks and a little bit of time you may find the stock FCG to be OK. I spent 10 bucks on the springs and under half an hour installing & polishing and mine is crisp, nice break and smooth as glass on the way.

Tell me more. I have the JP spring kit, how does one go about polishing the surfaces? I have dremmel, metal polishes, etc. Also any additional info on the set screw?

Thanks!

Don't use the Dremel! Get some Flitz and put a dab on the sear. Making sure that the hammer does not hit the front of the receiver by using something such as a strip of leather or foam, repeatedly cock and fire the FCG several times. Then dis-assemble the FCG and completely clean it. Per J-P's instructions, I then used a 60% Moly paste lightly applied to the sear area. My 15-22 had a crappy trigger before and now it's MUCH better, so much so that I'm not going to buy a replacement FCG for it.

Hobie

What is flitz? Linky?

Would a 2 stage match RRA trigger group (I assume that is what a FCG is?) work in the 15-22? I have one of those on my AR and I like it...

FCG = Fire Control Group
Yes, any AR FCG will work (as long as it uses standard pin sizes)

Flitz-Polish.com - Flitz Liquid Polish for Metal, Plastic & Fiberglass or Link

I would hate to spend $13 plus shipping for just a little "dab". Anyone have essentially a whole bottle extra that would be willing to package up a small amount to mail out in a letter size envelope? I wonder if a small quirt on some plastic wrap would work, or is this stuff too strong for that?

Still giving my vote for Jard. Having assembled non-adjustable and adjustable single stage, and both work fine. Am recommending to use KNS-pins with them.

I'm in on that too...

Midway USA

Find a location near you

I went with a dremel and fine polish on mine. Polished surfaces to a mirrior finish in less than 3 minutes and the trigger is now like a hot knife through butter. Sooooo smooth.

You do not need flitz... any metal polish will do.. all your doing is speeding up the break in process and letting the 2 surfaces mate together... I used a drimel on mine but its not needed at all..

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

What kind of tip do you use on the drimel i have one and want to try it and are you saying no metal polish at all when useing the drimel

I'm saying you don't need a drimmel but if you have one use a felt end and metal polish it doesn't have to be flitz what ever your local advanced auto has will work... if you don't have a drimmel put a drop or two between the hammer and trigger sear surfaces and dry fire it 50 times or so while catching the hammer.. do not let it hit anything. Set in front of the tv and with just the lower and pull the trigger and catch the hammer and the recock and start over.. if you use your drimmel be careful not to change any angles at all.. your just polishing not grinding

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

our rifles use .154 pins right? isn't that what standard AR15's use too?

Also, I was going to try the dremmel with felt wheel tonight and liiiiightly polish it, I have the polish bars (red/green/blue/white/brown/black), which would be appropriate (I assume the least aggressive?)

White works very well.

I have installed four of the Jard non-adjustables, and like them a lot. apparently anything that will work in normal AR lowers will fit the 15-22s. If I get one--which I am thinking about--I will put one in that.

One of the Jards was not quite right and Brownell's replaced it, no questions asked.

With this spring kit will it make my trigger pull about 3.5 lbs? What is the factory lbs of pull? You guys are making me want to work on my trigger. I had no problem myself with the trigger pull, its not a bench gun. But if I can improve on it so be it. Where do you buy this spring kit?

Here Dozer this where I'm getting mine! MidwayUSA - Advanced Search The 3 1/2 is out of stock now I,m buying mine next week so they might be back in by then. But there are a lot of places that sell them I just like this site never had a problem with them.

Thanks and that's not a bad price to make a better trigger.

Just ordered one from brownells I have done buisness with them they are reliable and ships quickly plus they have the yellow spring one 3.5 in stock

I got my springs (and many other parts) from this guy.

AR-15 REDUCED POWER SPRING KIT

Reasonable prices and pretty fast shipping weather aside.

+1 to trying the J-P trigger mod. As far as the "flitz", any other fine polishing compound is great. Just make sure you clean it out completely or it will continue to work it's "magic". From what i've read elsewhere, the sear group is heat treated and if you polish off or change the sear angle, the FCG may not live very long.
All I can say is, that after doing just a little clean-up and springs, I have a very good fun gun.
Hobie

Joebob outfitters he sales mueller scopes also. Did not know he sold ar parts. I and joebob was talking on e-mail a few months ago about his scopes.

I use Flitz, and I picked it up at the feed store where I used to live about 3 years ago and havent' even dented the bottle (all my ARs, my AK, a few Glock connectors...)

I think Ace Hardware carries it. Friend of mine uses the metal polish they sell at Auto Zone (can't remember the name) and consistency wise comparing the two, we couldn 't really tell the difference....
when I use my Dremel, it's on the sloooowwwest speed there is...

Mueller? What do you think about their 25X scope on the 15-22

Attached Images

Mueller_15_22.jpg (50.5 KB, 153 views)

I think if you add about 10" of sunshades you might have somethin

I don't know what it would be but it would be somethin

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Do you think you will have enough magnification ? Ha ha, I have put a few 24 power on my 22's plus sunshade for bench shooting but not on my 15-22 want to keep it tacticool !!! LOL's But I hear those scopes are A1

If you have any white car polishing compound in the garage it will do just as well as a dedicated metal polish like Flitz.
Its not quite as aggressive as Flitz, but this is the kind of job that is best done slowly and carefully.
It may take a little longer but if you put a little on a Dremel's felt polishing wheel or a cloth strip wrapped around a Popsicle stick and it will do the job just fine.

Good God, and I thought I was bad putting a pair of 6-24X42 Tasco scopes on a Rem 541S and a 10/22.

Just don't forget and lick the popsicle stick, Safety First. LOL's

Sorry, what exactly is getting polished? I've never tinkered with my FCG.

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If you remove the upper from your rifle you can hold the hammer with your left thumb and press the trigger. Slowly let the hammer go all the way forward till it stops, NEVER let it fly forward on its own, it 'shouldn't' matter if you do it accidentally once or twice
But repeated hammer falls can damage, if not crack the plastic of the lower or in extreme cases break the hammer itself.
Anyway once the hammer is all the way forward, look down on the rear side of the hammer by the pivot pin and you should be able to see a small shiny flat spot.
That is the hammers bearing surface, its half of the polishing equation. The other half is the bearing surface at the front of the trigger assembly. You can't see it without removing the trigger because it's underneath the hammer and its pivot pin.
To do a really proper polishing job on them you really do have to take the hammer and trigger out of the lower.
Just be VERY careful that you do not change the shape or angle of these surfaces or you could easily make a mess of things.
If you have never done anything like this, you can still do a credible job of it by just putting some polishing compound on the hammers bearing surface and just sit down and continually using your thumb to cock the hammer and pulling the trigger.
Replace the compound every 5 to 10 minutes while you watch TV for a night or two and you should have a decent trigger feel.
After a night or two doing that make sure you thoroughly clean the lower out to remove any residual compound and you should be able to feel a much smoother if not lighter trigger pull.

Hmmm, interesting. So is the polish basically wearing away some of the surface to make it weaker/lighter? Or "smoother" so the parts interact better together?

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This...is my BOOMSTICK

Smoother.

The whole idea is to reduce the friction between the two mated surfaces by smoothing each surface out. Obviously, two rough surfaces won't slide past eachother as easily as two smooth surfaces and when they do slide, they will feel 'gritty' and will slide harder (and thus give a heavier pull weight).

Your not confused, your right.
Smoothing the two surfaces will lighten the 'perceived' pull or trigger weight.
Smoothing them as a mated pair is generally easier for the amateur gunsmith, like us, get it right the first time instead of clean/polish the hammer, then the trigger and hope you didn't screw anything up.
You will never get it as good as a gunsmith who specializes in trigger jobs. But you can significantly improve what you have with some grinding/polishing compound and a little elbow grease.
Just stay the hell away from stones and grinding wheels, they can take WAY too much material off way too fast for anyone not intimately familiar with them.

Looking at the JP 3.5 spring kit..Should you replace all the springs inside the FCG or just the one on the trigger?

I have all blue springs on mine. But not sure if I had to change them all for a lighter trigger pull. Seems I would want to keep the blue one on the hammer, so it has more slam to it for insured firing.. Or am I thinking of that wrong?

You should always replace springs as a set.
Both the trigger spring and the hammer spring work together to get the overall feel and weight.
Remember the trigger spring is there more to hold and return the trigger to battery.
While the hammer spring is there to force the hammer into the firing pin the force applied by it to the hammer when cocked directly affects the amount of pressure needed on the trigger to release it.
So while only replacing the trigger spring 'will' reduce the trigger weight, its not going to be nearly as good as doing both.
I wouldn't worry too much about replacement hammer springs not having enough power to reliably hit the firing pin.
Spring makers do their homework and do a lot of testing to make sure the combination is going to be reliable.

Buy the time the person who shelled out $13 for a bottle went and got a small container, packaged it properly, drove to the post office, and paid postage ... they would be out an additional $13+ .....

Ok, thank you very much for the information.. I'll have to order up a spring kit then.

Worst case scenario if I ever had problems, put the stock springs back in.

Then call the maker and complain, odds are that the bigger better known companies will send you a new set to try out.

One way to help newer lighter springs work better is to thoroughly clean and lubricate the pivot pins and the holes they fit into in the hammer & trigger.
It could surprise you how much improvement can sometimes be had by just giving any gun a good cleaning.

Yes I have found that out.. I clean the heck out of my guns. I hate the idea of leaving them sitting dirty.

I second this. I put my pins in a Dremal and spun them with a buffing compound on a bore wipe. You wouldn't believe how smooth they came out without loosing any tolerances.

well I polished all the surfaces with the white compound until they were shinier, not a mirror finish or anything, but I didn't want to take that much material off anyway. The trigger breaks cleaner but still isn't glassy smooth. Is that not possible with the factory trigger?

Yes it is very possible, all it takes is alittle time and know how... if you stone the sufaces first befor you polish them you get much better results. As the old saying goes "you can polish a **** all day but at the end your left with a ****".. by stoning them first you get a perfectly flat surface and you allways polish in the dirrection the hammer rolls off the trigger.. once thise is done then polish them.. it really doesn't matter how shinny they are if they still have little raised areas that interlock with the sear..

If you take 1600 grit wet sand paper and lay it on a flat surface and run your trigger across it pulling it back toward you, making sure you keep the leading surface of the trigger flat, when you lift it you will see the high and low spots in it continue that process until the low spots go away then polish

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Use 2000 grit sandpaper, some gun oil, and a sheet of glass for the trigger faces. And frequently change out the paper as the oil turns gray.

I then used a hacksaw blade back instead of glass so I could also polish the hammer notch the same way

Both now have a mirror finish, but you can still see machine marks as I really only highly polished the surfaces without removing any material.

easy fix, I ordered a Timney for my 6.5 Grendel AR, will be swapping the RRA 2-Stage Match trigger into the 15-22.

Good God, we all have to be as crazy as loons to spend all the time, effort, and money we do on this one little .22 rimfire rifle.

Oh well welcome all to the loony bin

Go to JP Enterprises web sight ,look up fire control systems . Find JP EZ trigger kits watch the videos there . I installed the Ez trigger kit in my 15-22 . It works great . Little expensive but I think well worth the money . The pins are .154 . But the .156 pin kit will work ,with no mods to the lower

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