I know this has to be getting old now... but I've found a few more that I think I'm going to look into. I've found these locally at decent prices so, I could take them back locally if they ended up being terrible. One question I can't seem to answer about either of these are... what RING SIZE do I need. I can't find it anywhere.... but it is late and I'm typing with one eye opened lol.

Amazon.com: Bushnell Banner 6-24x40 Rifle Scope Mill Dot Reticle: Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Bushnell Banner Dusk & Dawn 6-18x50 Riflescope: Sports & Outdoors

Most scopes use 1" rings. If a scope uses 30mm, it will typically be stated very prominently in the product description.

I have a Bushnell Banner 1.5-4x that I used as a scout scope on a 30-30. It worked great in that role and was plenty clear and bright. I dunno about 18x or 24x magnification on a 22lr though, seems completely unnecessary.

I have 2 6X24X40 mm on my real accurate 22's. I love them, great for target practicing. To big of a scope for me for hunting. You don't need a spotting scope for target practicing with these scopes. One of mine is a tru-glo and one is a tasco.. I use 1" med. rings, weavers. I never have bought a 30mm tube size scope before.

just a thought...if you are getting these scopes locally wouldnt you be able to fit the scope for rings @ the dealer?

I admit my 10/22 and my 17HMR i just paid an extra $15 and had the dealer setup the scope and boresight it for me....just another option

__________________
Overkill is Underrated

Don't take this the wrong way but it sounds like you are not very experianced when it comes to guns and scopes. I would suggest going to a reputable dealer in your area and getting a scope and mounts from them. It might cost a little more than buying them on-line but when you don't know what you're doing the extra money is well spent.

Most dealers will mount scope if u buy from them and bore sight for free.

Coots,

No problem

The scopes you have linked are 1in scopes so you will need one inch rings.

Options -

A. 1in tall rings.

B .75in riser and low rings .25in



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C. Burris PEPR mount. (I very much like these)



Note: You can use lower than 1in rings, but it's likely you will have trouble getting your eye low enough to see through the scope without smushing your face into the stock. 1in is pretty much standard height for AR platforms.

+1. That is an excellent mount for scopes on ARs.

I'm very happy with the Barska Combination I just purchased. (Google Barska for item)
For $239 I got: 1. Fixed 4-power Tactical scope w/ Illuminated MilDot Reticle (Red & green) 2. Tactical 160-lumen Flashlight with many light options 3. Small 5mah green laser that'll also fit my pistols.
Altho the scope has rails to put the light and laser on it, I chose to mount the light on the front foregrip just forward of my vertical grip/bipod. I activate it with my index finger knuckle, altho it comes with an optional pigtail pressure sensitive remote. I chose the green laser because it shows up much better than red-but like the red laser, animals can't see it unless it's shone directly into their eyes. (I hunt critters at night occasionally). This unit comes ready to mount with all the rings and other accessories needed to install, and is VERY solid and well made. Other options I have on my little badass are: A used milspec vertical foregrip with a built-in quick-release bipod (make sure it has the steel inserts in the legs) and a one point bungee-assisted tactical sling that makes carrying effortless.
Notes and hints: I love this gun-but there are a few "wish they'da done it better" type things; 1. The stock's loose and rattles. Jeeze S&W-for $429 ya' coulda' built that better. Had to disassemble and use some aluminum tape strips to friction-fit it. (YouTube for how-to info) 2. Wish they'da put a cover/cap on that pistol grip for more storage. (Somebody'll make some nice bucks when they invent one.) 3. As with most Vets, I hate rattles, so put a little piece of foam in with the spare lithium batts (scope, laser, light) and the allen wrenches, that you store in the stock hidey-hole. Which could have used a better cover too. 4. Be aware that if you want the best accuracy-if you change positions of the vert foregrip OR the light--you also change point-of-aim because there's a smidge of flexibility in that polymer front forestock, so re-sight the scope/laser.
After approx 500 rounds, I've yet to have a misfire, failure to feed, or failure to eject on my rifle, however accuracy varies a lot with the brand of ammo. Presently shooting Federal bulk-and it's 1-2 inch groups at 25-30 yards. OK-but I'll use better stuff for hunting squirrels etc. CCI makes good stuff, but apparently it's made with platinum bullets, since it's $6 a box. Ridiculous! I plan on taking the creep out of the trigger (AGAIN as per video on YouTube). I believe I'll also invest in a pair of MBUS flipdown sights-maybe try out a clamp-on barrel sling attachment- and have my Nikon 3x9 set up ready to mount.
Hard not to love this little gun, and I like tricking it out with different stuff and seeing how it works. Hope I helped some of you out a little.

Please tell me if you have creep in the FIRE position, as I really would like to know. I previously posted the following:

"The problem with the video and the trigger creep is that it is only evident in the SAFE position. All 15-22s I have seen demonstrate this characteristic in the SAFE position. My 15-22 had zero creep in the FIRE position even before my installation of the JP springs, as well as other 15-22s I have checked. Look at 00:14 in the video and note the position of the safety. It's on SAFE. I'll bet that if many of you that check you 15-22 in the FIRE position (after determining the weapon is clear or with the upper off the lower) will have zero creep. To me this is a fix to a non-existing problem on many 15-22s, because trigger creep in the SAFE position is meaningless. You can't fire the weapon on SAFE. For those of you that have creep in the FIRE position, I suppose the fix is worthwhile."

A little info I forgot to add:
Went out and hunted coon and possum the other night. I gotta' tell ya', I REALLY like that darn green laser and the illuminated scope reticle. I suppose I could've used the light, but I had so much fun with the laser and using the lit reticle together, I forgot all about it.
Noted 1 thing tho- after a few shots- I was losing accuracy a little. Next day I checked to see if the laser matched the scope on target, and the laser was 3-4 inches to the left. Apparently it had shifted from recoil. Checked to see if the rings had slipped or were loose and they weren't.
Sooooo..against common practice and my better judgement, I read the damned installation instructions from Barska. Seems I'd not put in place the included little cylindrical round bar that locks into the picatinny rail slots to keep....the laser from moving on recoil.
Hmm... I wondered what that booger was for.

Outstanding G26ster. Haven't checked this yet, so will do it ASAP and maybe save some time and tinkerin'..

I do wonder if we watched the same video tho, as there were no "JP springs" that I recall-simply tightening a set screw I think?

No, the JP springs have nothing to do with the video. It's strictly about fixing the "creep."

I'm another who has to question why you think you need a 6-24 power scope for a 22 caliber rifle. In terms of effective energy and ballistics that caliber is limited to about 100 yards and that's pushing it a bit. If you haven't ever done it, I'd suggest that you try holding a 24 power scope on a target, it isn't at all "easy".

IMO a basic 4 power scope will work quite well on your 22 and while it's old schoool and a classic combination there is a reason for that. That is that a 4 power scope is a sound pratical choice for the ranges that a 22 caliber rifle is suited for.

I will be glad to explain why I want such a high variable scope on my rifle. I have an eye disease known as Retinitis Pigmentosa. So my eye sight is no where near a normal mans eye sight. The closer I can get to the target (which is paper in my scenario) the better off I will be. I used my friends 3-9x40 NcStar at the range the other day and I have a 4x powered scope on my 10/22. I need something more powerful... that's all.

For those who like one piece scope mounts or just want to learn more about what's available, specs, uses and reviews, the below link has an incredible amount of information.

AR15 One-Piece Mounts

Another reason for .22 scopes with hi power is that when you shoot from a bench, the "wiggle" is controlled fairly easy, and you usually don't have to carry around a spotting scope-just dial up the power. Course, your field of view is diminished greatly. I use a 4-16 occasionally and I like it on 16x for small targets like a squirrel head.

In regards to the letters on the BAD. I kinda' like the idea, but can see me up here in these Michigan winters...dropping mags in the snow from accidently hitting the lever when I stick my gloved trigger finger in the housing. Oooops.

As suggested, I checked for trigger creep on my MP15-22 and it isn't there. I'd like to have a little less trigger pull tho-anybody know if the trigger can be adjusted for pull weight-and how to do it?
Thanks.

Spend approx. $10 and get the JP Enterprises 3 1/2 lb. trigger spring kit. All you really need to do at a minimum is swap the trigger, hammer and disconnector springs with the JP springs provided, and you'll be down to a nice 4 1/2 - 5 lbs. If you want to follow the polishing instructions they provide also, even better. Available from JP Ent.

JP Rifles