i bought my 15-22 2 weeks ago and i finally went out and shot it and the trigger is sticking. i have to sometimes manually push it for to get it to reset so i can shoot the next round. it does it with the factory mag and the 50rnd drum its worse with the drum but it still does it about every 5-8rnds with the factory but about 2-5rnds with the drum. i field stripped it before i shot it the first time and cleaned all the shipping grease off it.

Hi and welcome.

I have never heard of this issue, but maybe some else has. If it was me I would separate the upper and lower and fire the rifle while looking inside to see if anything is binding. Of course without the magazine in it. And use a block of wood or a rolled up towel or something to stop the hammer from slamming into the receiver. Just use you thumb to reset the hammer after every shot.

it doesnt bind as long as i pull the trigger and then return the hammer without the trigger held but if i return the hammer with the trigger still held it doesnt want to completly reset the hammer to were its suppose to go and it feels rough on the trigger return when i let it go and sometimes i still have to reset it

Brand new never disassembled?

I would pull the FCG if it was mine to check that the springs were installed correctly and to take a look at the contact points. If someone had it apart it's typical for the hammer spring to get installed backwards, and the disconnector spring upside down.


If it's a bad trigger send it back.

Evening belcher3838

If you bought the gun used look for signs that the last owner installed a set screw in the top of the hand grip attaching hole & adjusted it a bit too tight.

Your problem sounds like the sear disconnecter is hanging up on the hammer notch tip. (I have seen that before when a set screw is added & adjusted a bit too tight)

If a brand new gun then it sounds like either a poorly made sear disconencter or something wrong with the sear disconnecter to hammer geometry.

If a new gun then call S&W help & either ask for a return to them to be repaired or ask if they will just send you a new hammer & new sear disconnecter.

The disconnector is not timed to release the hammer properly. This can be caused by an out of spec part or an improperly installed spring. If you try to fix this yourself, be very cautious, as an improper disconnector can lead to a serious automatic fire issue. Do you have a local shop that is good with ARs? They can look at it and probably fix it in about two minutes. If not, you can call S&W and send it back to them for repair.

Oh also it's worth asking, have you made any modifications to the trigger group?

It was my understanding that that in an AR without the disconnector the hammer would simply follow bolt forward. Not causing the gun to fire. In its big brother with a notched hammer it could even cause a jam not allowing the bolt to go back into battery.

No one said anything about the disconnector being missing. The disconnector is mistimed.

I understand that, I suppose I should have said not functioning properly as in not catching the hammer (essentially the same as not being there). It wouldn't cause an automatic fire issue. The gun just wouldn't work.

Incorrect. Google "AR doubling". That is just one example.

Ok, it seems like it can be caused by some out of spec parts or a weak disconnector spring. The hammer must be hanging on the disconnector just enough to allow the bolt to go into battery and let the hammer have momentum to strike the firing pin, Not following the bolt. In any case it is extremely dangerous. If the OP can not see an obvious problem it is best to send the rifle back to S&W, or maybe install a new trigger assembly like the RRA 2 stage.

its a brand new gun i only took the upper and the bolt apart to clean the new grease off it never messed with the lower

Morning belcher3838

Well, if a brand new gun then call S&W & have them E-Mail you a return shipper (they will first offer to mail you one but that takes a lot longer than the E-Mail one).

OR, if you bought the gun from a regular gun shop then talk to them. They might have a new disconnecter in stock with a knowledgeable tec to install it correctly.
Also, if they can't repair it themselves they would probably send it in to S&W for repair for you.

With a little study on how that disconnecter works you can file it to work correctly but that will also remove the case hardening from the working area & cause you issues later on so personally I don't recommend re-working it yourself.