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  #1  
Old 04-26-2012, 10:19 AM
sp74supra sp74supra is offline
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Default Lighter Firing pin return spring part#

I have read through the entire Slidefire thread and came across the part where it seems necessary to change the firing pin return spring. People have been posting that they have been getting them at ACE Hardware and Home Depot. I was wondering if any of you guys have a part number for the spring at Home Depot. Home Depot is usually around the areas for most members. Just looking to see if anyone had a part number to make life a little easier.

Thanks!
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:52 AM
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Just bring the old one in, tell em you need one the same length but less rotations/tension. If they stand there and look at you like you just asked them to do trigonometry, keep walkin and find someone else, I find its hit or miss with those guys!
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:55 AM
Plumbago Plumbago is offline
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Save yourself a lot of time and trouble trying to find a similar size spring. These are precision springs, with the correct ID and OD to fit the pin not to mention they are a select diameter of wire with a specific tension rate. Now it's no secret the factory spring is too long (requires too much hammer spring tension) for the given rebound ( a lawyer thing for sure)......Simply: cut off 1/8" off the stock spring length....This easily preserves the rebound for any slam fire sequence, but greatly improves fireing pin speed and greatly improves .22 ignition......consistant ignition is one of the most important factors in achieving 22 rimfire accuracy............... Best regards Plum
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:47 PM
sp74supra sp74supra is offline
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Originally Posted by Plumbago View Post
Save yourself a lot of time and trouble trying to find a similar size spring. These are precision springs, with the correct ID and OD to fit the pin not to mention they are a select diameter of wire with a specific tension rate. Now it's no secret the factory spring is too long (requires too much hammer spring tension) for the given rebound ( a lawyer thing for sure)......Simply: cut off 1/8" off the stock spring length....This easily preserves the rebound for any slam fire sequence, but greatly improves fireing pin speed and greatly improves .22 ignition......consistant ignition is one of the most important factors in achieving 22 rimfire accuracy............... Best regards Plum
That sounds like a much better idea! I went to Home Depot and got a multi pack of springs.. none fit.. I will give this a try. Can you buy this spring from S&W if I messed it up by chance?

Thanks
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:18 AM
neverenoughguns1 neverenoughguns1 is offline
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Thats what id like to know too. Have you found another spring? Or did you clip yours? How did it turn out? My 15-22 has light primer strikes with timney 3.5 installed.
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by neverenoughguns1 View Post
Thats what id like to know too. Have you found another spring? Or did you clip yours? How did it turn out? My 15-22 has light primer strikes with timney 3.5 installed.
There seems to be more light-strike problems with Timney than all the others combined. Makes me think the problem is a hammer with insufficient mass/inertia.

I have a Jard with a 2 pound trigger and ignition is 100 percent.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:28 PM
Ufg8rmike Ufg8rmike is offline
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Wondering if a solution was ever found as to the best place or specific part number for the firing pin spring. I don't want to cut my stock spring.

We have a pair of 15-22's, both set up identically with slidefire and CMC tatical drop in triggers. One runs beautifully, the other is having light strike issues. I plan to test the bolt from the gun that is running well in the gun that is not, to see if I can isolate the issue to the firing pin spring. I'm fairly certain, or at least hopeful that a new or modified spring will resolve it.

Either way, I'd like to find a second spring for the next step.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:26 AM
ballistictoyz ballistictoyz is offline
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it works fine without the spring,no slam fires i was the one who originaly posted about the spring swap for slide fires,ace has one in their assortment pack that works fine or leave it out--ar's dont use springs and dont slam fire and mine hasnt yet
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:02 AM
gr8jab gr8jab is offline
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For what it is worth, I used this spring:

McMaster-Carr 9663K13

302 Stainless Steel Cut-to-Length Compression Spring, 20" Length, .187" OD, .017" Wire Diameter, packs of 1

You just cut what you need, and save the rest for the next rifle. It is very weak (almost like no spring), but does enough to keep the firing pin to the rear and fully in the hammer's path.

Since I upgraded to a Timney, this spring has eliminated the light strike.
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  #10  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:39 AM
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[QUOTE=We have a pair of 15-22's, both set up identically with slidefire and CMC tatical drop in triggers. [/QUOTE]

I have the CMC trigger in mine too. Before I installed it, it was in my AR-10 .308 and it never failed to set off military primers. My point is, I have a hard time understanding how that FCG would have a hard time overcoming the relatively weak firing pin return spring of a .22 rifle. BTW I have never had any ignition problems in my 15-22. And while I don't dispute the result of cutting off 1l8" of the spring, I have to wonder if that is more coincidence than mechanics. I can't believe that cutting that small an amount would change the energy potential that much. Since this seems to be happening more with after market triggers, I wonder if it could be a geometry issue. In other words, is the hammer striking the firing pin squarely? Just wondering.
RichH
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:12 PM
Ufg8rmike Ufg8rmike is offline
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Just tested the bolt from the gun that runs beautifully in the gun that stops every 3rd to 4th shot with light strikes and the result is the same. This leads me to believe its related to the trigger or hammer mass.

Again, both guns have the same cmc tatical drop in trigger but maybe they aren't exact. I still believe the easiest and cheapest solution would be to cut the fp spring and increase the primer strike. Guess I'm off to ace to see about finding a new spring. I'll also try calling s&w on Monday to see about getting a new stock spring.

Thanks for mcmaster recommendation, where did u get it?
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2012, 02:45 PM
gr8jab gr8jab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufg8rmike View Post

Thanks for mcmaster recommendation, where did u get it?
Where did I buy it? Online at mcmaster-carr.

Why this spring? I measured the factory spring OD and ID, estimated the strength, and then searched on mcmaster-carr for different options. I bought several springs of different strength and approximately same size, and tested them at the range. My goal was go as light as possible without slam-fire. I never had slam-fire, so I kept the lightest spring in the gun.
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:29 PM
pacrat54 pacrat54 is offline
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Hello,I,m new.i saw a guy on you tube on the 22lr slide fire.he said to put a 3.5 spr wng & a reverse supressor and it will be a beast.when fireing just slde your hand from back to front of bottom rail.hope this helps.ordered my 22 should be here next wk.probly be asking about sights & lazers then.
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:55 PM
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Hello,I,m new.i saw a guy on you tube on the 22lr slide fire.he said to put a 3.5 spr wng & a reverse supressor and it will be a beast.when fireing just slde your hand from back to front of bottom rail.hope this helps.ordered my 22 should be here next wk.probly be asking about sights & lazers then.
Just a piece of friendly advice ...

Put a couple of thousand rounds through your new rifle as it comes out of the box before you start messing with it.

Also, just because something is on YouTube doesn't mean it's good advice.

I have never heard of a "reverse suppressor". Sounds like I'net BS to me.
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Old 03-09-2015, 04:20 PM
mz169 mz169 is offline
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Default firing pin and spring issues

I am also having light strike issues. When I first got the mp1522 I immediately installed the slide fire with the lighter cmc trigger.it worked without issue for about 5000 rounds. A month later no matter what I would feed it...cci mini mags, thunderbolt, Winchester, etc.it all would fail every trigger pull....btw I field strip and cleaned as the manual instructed without disassembling the bolt carrier. When I did take the rail apart and cleaned with compressed air I saw improvement...but was only able to get a three round burst then it would click and not fire but would lightly strike every round...the gunsmith is ordering parts from Smith and Wesson...I'll update the forum as information comes to light

Matt
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  #16  
Old 03-09-2015, 04:33 PM
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Spray the firing pin channel with CLP or similar. Do it from both directions and then blow it out with compressed air. DO NOT lubricate the channel.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:26 AM
crazyjz crazyjz is offline
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Default S&W M&P15-22 firing pin spring

I recently picked up a brand new 15-22 specifically so I could play with the "SlideFire" stock. I purchased the rifle, the SF stock, the CMC trigger assy. and after a while, the muzzle brake made by Wheaton Arms.

With only the SF stock and CMC trigger installed, I had immediate but limited success. I was often able to shoot a half magazine before some sort of malfunction stopped everything up. Mostly failure to ignite caused by light firing pin strikes but also some failure to eject and failure to feed issues.

I disassembled the rifle, polished up the feed ramp and took the razor sharp edges off of the actual chamber. The sharp edge would sometimes catch the soft lead tip of some of the rounds as they were making the transition from the magazine to the chamber. Put it back together and things went a little smoother with no further FTE or FTfeed issues. Still had constant failure to fire problems. At least one failure to fire per mag, sometimes two or three per mag. No good.

Inspection of the rounds that failed to ignite showed a very light firing pin strike. Bummer. I thought the CMC trigger was supposed to take care of that?

After reading several hours of opinions on the internet ranging from the scientific purpose of each aspect of firing pins springs, to those throwing caution to the wind and snipping off a bit of the stock firing pin spring, I made my choice.

Having been around firearms most of my life, I determined that the worst thing that could happen if I ruined my stock firing pin spring is that I would have to get another. No big deal.

I took the bolt assy apart. (By the way, all the advice about the crappy roll pin in the bolt is true! Either don't take it all the way out or have a new one on hand. They are cheap and soft!)

I clipped exactly 1/8" off of the firing pin spring, cleaned the pin and the channel and put it back together. I put the cut end of the spring on the pin and left the "flat" end to ride in the bolts firing pin channel.

My "reverse" muzzle brake arrived in the mail while all this was going on but I resisted the urge to install it prior to testing my firing pin spring modification. The firing pin still protruded out of the bolt as always but when pushed in with a finger or pencil eraser, it did seem to take less pressure to move it forward. I was beginning to doubt that trimming such a small amount of length off of the FP spring would do anything.

I loaded up two S&W 25rd mags up with elcheapo Winchester white box rounds. Went through both mags without a hitch! First time that has happened since I put the rifle together!

I installed the muzzle brake and went through two more mags without issue. I cannot say that the muzzle brake is essential in making the slide fire function but I don't think it hurts.

I am not advocating anybody do anything to any firearm. Risky business. I am only documenting what I did and the results I experienced.

Only time will tell if my FP spring modification will come back to bite me or if it was the right thing to do under the circumstances.

I do plan to contact CMC and see what they have to say about it. I did not have any FTFire's with the stock trigger assy. The stock trigger assembly is largely a piece of junk with a trigger pull so heavy that I could not activate the trigger with my trigger pull gauge. I guess the heavy springs they used is the reason I did not have any problems with the stock trigger.

I really like this rifle now!
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:45 AM
Mark15/22 Mark15/22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8jab View Post
For what it is worth, I used this spring:

McMaster-Carr 9663K13

302 Stainless Steel Cut-to-Length Compression Spring, 20" Length, .187" OD, .017" Wire Diameter, packs of 1

You just cut what you need, and save the rest for the next rifle. It is very weak (almost like no spring), but does enough to keep the firing pin to the rear and fully in the hammer's path.

Since I upgraded to a Timney, this spring has eliminated the light strike.
I used this spring. Work like a charm.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:13 PM
crazyjz crazyjz is offline
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Default M&P 15-22 slide fire firing pin and spring mod

Ok, I know that I am well behind on the popularity of the S&W 15-22. I just did get the bug and have found myself scouring old posts looking for info on various slide fire modifications necessary to get the rifle running right.

The obvious purchases aside, CMC trigger assy., reverse muzzle brake and of course, the SlideFire stock itself, there are a few other minor modifications necessary to get some of these rifles cooking properly.

Of course, somebody will chime in here that their 15-22 came perfect from the factory and they have shot 1 million rounds through their rifle, shooting nothing but wooden bullets, wearing a blindfold, without a stumble. If you're that guy, I have nothing for you.

If on the other hand, you have purchased all these parts, got close to a grand invested and the damn thing still does not rock and roll like all those guys in the "YOUTUBE" videos, read on.

I am an amateur gunsmith. That's right. One of those guys who tinker around with stuff that they know little or nothing about. On the other hand, I have been doing it for about 30 years so I have managed to pick up a few things along the way. With my 15-22 totally decked out with all its new parts, I was still having failure to fire problems. Inspection of the failed round showed an almost invisible firing pin strike mark.

A search of the internet revealed that installation of lighter trigger pull kits often results in light firing pin strikes. Damn, nobody told me about this! Ok, no big deal. I'm sure I can figure this out.

An inspection of the firing pin and firing pin spring revealed a very substantial spring. The internet consensus is that the FP spring could likely be the culprit for light FP strikes. Since I know I can always replace the factory spring, I cut 1/8" off the spring. Testing revealed very little difference in the depth of firing pin strike marks on fired brass. A check of the firing pin itself revealed that at full forward position (simulated by pushing the base of the firing pin forward with a punch) the firing pin was only protruding about half what it should have been. Damn, no wonder. But why? Back to the internet.

Ok, I give, seems like the only way to allow more of the firing pin to protrude through the hole to strike the case is to file off a little bit of the slot in the firing pin. By the slot, I mean the portion of the firing pin that is milled away where the roll pin holds it in place. This milled away area directly relates to how far forward and how far rearward the firing pin can travel during a single bolt cycle. I took a small chain saw file and removed about 2 or 3 thousandths off of each side. I then buffed it smooth and reinstalled. This time the firing pin protruded out the bolt further but not to far. It also seemed a little easier to push in on.

I buffed everything that rubbed up on anything, put it all together and it worked. Go figure. I now have completely respectable firing pin marks on all my brass whether firing slide fire or not.

Last but not least and I'm not sure it even matters but I also made a modification to my slide fire stock. I have the MagPul style of 15-22. It came with some sort of quick release sling stud on the stock. This stud interferes with the full and complete operation of the slide fire stock. I simply notched out a couple of semicircles where the stock was hitting. Now I have total front to rear movement of the stock. Don't know if it was bothering anything besides me but now its fixed.

Thats it. Sorry for the mega long post but I wish I would have run across a few more posts like mine to help me on my way to dialing in my 15-22. It would have given me a bit more nerve in modifying some of these parts!

I do not recommend anyone do these things to their rifle. Guns are dangerous enough without changing the way they were intended to work. I only document this to show what I have done to my rifle and the results that I experienced.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:51 AM
wmgsmokey wmgsmokey is offline
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Default Spring tricks don't work

Folks, I am new to this forum even though I have been a S&W revolver and pistol guy for over 40 years. My journey with the Slide Fire and the 15-22 led me here.

I have the Sport. I am using Mini Mag and Winchester Super X. Both 40 gr. CMC 3.5 curved installed. I got very inconsistent results, mostly light to no primer strike, with the stock firing pin spring. I tried the 1/8" off the stock spring with no better result. Same with the McMaster-Carr spring. The 15-22 has fired well with all 3 tries in semi mode. Good primer strikes and no problems. Only when attempting the SF mode did the action fail to cycle with light or no primer strike. It seems to me that it is not a recoil issue since semi works fine. Nothing can be done with the hammer spring since I am using the drop in CMC. Do any wizards out there have any additional advice.

Thanks. Bill
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:44 AM
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Belt-Fed Hell: S&W M&P 15-22 Firing Pin Spring Swap for the Timney 3lb Trigger
Try this great pics. More info at bottom.
Hillman springs.
Cost me 50 cents Canadian.
Fixed all issues with timney 3lb trigger.
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Old 08-25-2016, 05:19 PM
wmgsmokey wmgsmokey is offline
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Little Airwolf, thank you. I'll try it.

Bill
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Old 08-27-2016, 12:50 PM
little_airwolf little_airwolf is offline
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If you need help let me know.
Again fixed all issues I had.
Also for some reason I have 0 jams and cases ending stuck ontop of the bolt or being crushed.
Was like magic.
Thats also using m22 and bulk fed/win ammo. Not cci or high end stuff
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