Rimfire cartridge blow up.

[NineBear]

Anyone have any idea what happened?
I was shooting Federal bulk 550 with a clean AR15-22 and on about round 200 this happened.
Thank goodness I had my shooting glasses on, as I could feel the blowback on my face.
The breech never closed completely before the round went off. It also did not eject, but the round somehow cleared the barrel.
It wasn't a double tap fire that I could tell.

[w0ady]

good thing you're ok. id contact federal if you still have the packaging with the lot #.

[Beemerguy53]

I think you answered your own question: The round wasn't chambered properly, and the rifle was not in battery when it fired. I think the photos support that conclusion as well.

Good thing you had your shooting glasses on!

[Brett248Vista]

Round went off out of battery. It's not the ammo.

[KEN L]

Originally Posted by Brett248Vista

Round went off out of battery. It's not the ammo.

That's not necessarily so. Every once in a while you'll find a .22 round that has a lead smear, or shaving, where the projectile seats in the case mouth. Technically its a defective round and may result in the round not fully chambering, but in most cases it will chamber and fire. Not really a problem in a revolver though, unless it just won't chamber. But semiautos are famous for failures to completely chamber a round. Especially if the round is defective as described above. Most of the time you'll just get a click. But if you have the right combination of just seated enough for the hammer to fall the round will detonate as in the picture. Open bolt full auto .22's are FAMOUS for such things.

Sometimes that ammo just can't wait to be chambered before it goes off!

[rraisley]

While I was going to agree that it wasn't the ammo, /something/ has to cause it to not fully chamber the round. I've had this (failure to fully chamber) happen 3 times on my 15-22, all three when using CCI Tactical ammo. Luckily, I felt the difference in the gun's action, and checked before firing, so the rounds did not go off. I removed them (they were fairly tight), brought them home, and found out they miked about 0.002" oversize in diameter when compared to other rounds from the box. (They would not fully chamber on any semi-auto I own.) I was shocked (at the time) to find out that the 15-22 would fire out of battery (have since found out it's fairly normal - just not with my other .22 guns like my Medalist and High Standard).

Anyhow, you're lucky, and that's a good reason for eye protection while shooting.

[rojodiablo]

For what it's worth, this is not an event caused by your rifle in any way.
It's the nature of the .22 rimfire round. Out of the millions made, there are always a couple that misbehave. I have seen a bullet where the projectile fit so loosely into the brass it rolled on its' side just getting chambered. I have had 2 or 3 that went off like your situation. My feeling on these, at least partially, is a very thin rim via a defective part during the manufacturing. I went to chamber a round several years ago with my Marlin model 60. Pulled back the bolt, let go...... and PACK!!! The round went off, and it never made it into the breech. I was pulling lead and brass from the crevasses in there for an hour, and was really lucky that the round was at least 'headed up' or it would have directly shot the bullet forward of it in the tube. For the millions of 22 I have shot, I guess I never really got too disappointed by the overall performance of the round, in multiple guns.
Glad you are OK!

[Gunzilla]

To reduce the chances of this happening at the Tactical .22 matches I've started spraying a light coat of Remoil on the rounds just before loading the magazines.

It may not prevent an out-of-battery discharge 100% but it's nice to know that if the chamber is totally dry the ammo is not and will likely load and eject as designed.

Does anyone else do this when they know they will be firing a lot of rounds in 1 range session?

[DelFuego]

Originally Posted by golfbrad

Anyone have any idea what happened?
I was shooting Federal bulk 550 with a clean AR15-22 and on about round 200 this happened.
Thank goodness I had my shooting glasses on, as I could feel the blowback on my face.
The breech never closed completely before the round went off. It also did not eject, but the round somehow cleared the barrel.
It wasn't a double tap fire that I could tell.

That scares the heck out of me, no matter how small the round is.

[gdauth]

I do something similar on my model 41 target pistol. It would have up to 10% stovepipes using the recommended CCI SV. I run the pistol fairly wet and I put a drop of oil on the first round in the mag. Solved the stovepipes and the gun is now flawless. The oil helps prevent the build up of crud in the chamber and on the breach face. The gun is also easer to clean. A dirty chamber can prevent the round from seating completely. I also carry a chamber brush that I use after every 100 rounds. It all helps.

Originally Posted by Gunzilla

To reduce the chances of this happening at the Tactical .22 matches I've started spraying a light coat of Remoil on the rounds just before loading the magazines.

It may not prevent an out-of-battery discharge 100% but it's nice to know that if the chamber is totally dry the ammo is not and will likely load and eject as designed.

Does anyone else do this when they know they will be firing a lot of rounds in 1 range session?

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by gdauth

I do something similar on my model 41 target pistol. It would have up to 10% stovepipes using the recommended CCI SV. I run the pistol fairly wet and I put a drop of oil on the first round in the mag. Solved the stovepipes and the gun is now flawless. The oil helps prevent the build up of crud in the chamber and on the breach face. The gun is also easer to clean. A dirty chamber can prevent the round from seating completely. I also carry a chamber brush that I use after every 100 rounds. It all helps.

This flies in the face of everything I have read and been taught over the last 40+ years - NOT to put oil on cartridge cases OR on the inside of the chamber.

[Majorlk]

Others will disagree with me, but I have never seen an OOB that wasn't caused by a problem with the firearm. Ammo doesn't go off "early" on it's own. The primer must be struck by the firing pin. If the firing pin hits the primer before the bolt is in battery, that's NOT the ammo's fault - it's the firearm's fault.

[rraisley]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

Others will disagree with me, but I have never seen an OOB that wasn't caused by a problem with the firearm. Ammo doesn't go off "early" on it's own. The primer must be struck by the firing pin. If the firing pin hits the primer before the bolt is in battery, that's NOT the ammo's fault - it's the firearm's fault.

I've gotta take issue with this, based on my experience. With the 3 similar problems I've had, the ammo (bullet, actually) was oversize, and would not let the round chamber properly. They would stop about 1/4" from being completely chambered. And at that point, with the design of the 15-22, the firing pin /can/ be stricken with enough force to set off the round.

So, when thousands of rounds chamber properly, and fire properly, but 3 fail to chamber, that's an ammo problem, not a firearm problem. I still have the rounds that did not chamber, and would let anyone try them in their gun, if they like. I just don't want to be nearby if the pull the trigger.

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by rraisley

I've gotta take issue with this, based on my experience. With the 3 similar problems I've had, the ammo (bullet, actually) was oversize, and would not let the round chamber properly. They would stop about 1/4" from being completely chambered. And at that point, with the design of the 15-22, the firing pin /can/ be stricken with enough force to set off the round.

That's STILL the fault of the firearm, not the ammo. It is typical of semi-auto .22s, including the 10/22, because they do not use a locked bolt.

I guess I'm the odd-man out because in something close to a half-million rounds of .22LR over the years (almost 15k so far this year) I've never had an OOB or experienced some of the odd-ball malfunctions mentioned on this forum, including stuck ammo from an oversized bullet. Except in very tight match chambers, there's more than enough tolerance in the average .22 LR chamber and throat to eliminate the problem.

So, when thousands of rounds chamber properly, and fire properly, but 3 fail to chamber, that's an ammo problem, not a firearm problem.

Yes, THAT'S an ammo problem, but that has nothing to do with the firing pin releasing on an out of battery bolt; THAT'S the firearms fault.

[Gunzilla]

I agree that a firearm should not be able to strike the firing pin if the bolt is not in battery, but some can and do.

My Walther G-22 did just that a number of times in one session....and that's why I now own a 15-22.

My method of spraying a light film of Remoil on the rounds before loading the magazine gives me a comforting thought that at least the round stands a better chance of chambering all the way than a dry round. I usually spray a rag with the oil, then dump rounds onto the rag then give the rounds a very quick shot from the spray can to the ones on top get a little something on them before I handle them.

Keep in mind that before the round is even put into a magazine it is handled and by the time it makes it's way to the chamber it has only a very thin film of oil remaining.

Lastly, the ammo manufacturer is a HUGE factor in Out Of Battery Experiences for those weapons that can have them. Recently had some Remington rounds not chamber but only half way into my 15-22 chamber, and in that magazine it happened at least 5 times, with a string of 3 in a row. Lucky for me I was able to feel the unusual action of the rifle before pulling the trigger. Needless to say I will NEVER buy Remington ammo ever again....wouldn't even take it if it were free.

To keep issues like this to a bare minimum I shoot quality ammo, Winchester 1300 FPS round nose from the red plastic 100 round slider boxes. These I have found to work the best in my 15-22.

[rraisley]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

Yes, THAT'S an ammo problem, but that has nothing to do with the firing pin releasing on an out of battery bolt; THAT'S the firearms fault.

Well, I /guess/ what you're saying is that the 15-22 is a defective firearm ("the firearms fault") because it allows the firing pin to release when out of battery. Since the 15-22 is the way it is, and because people (I think you?) have told me that almost all .22's work that way, I don't personally call it a fault.

And finally, if a specific round of ammo will either misfire, or not fire, in every gun I've tried, /I/ call that an ammo fault, not a firearm fault. You can call it whatever you like.

[hkyplr]

Rraisley, if I firearm is designed to allow firing OOB, or rather not designed to prevent it, then it is a design flaw, not a defective firearm. I agree with Majorlk that any firearm shouldn't be designed to fire OOB, especially in these litigious times. That being said, since the risk of it happening is so low and the risk if being hurt by it is lower still, it must be acceptable to the manufacturers.

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by rraisley

Well, I /guess/ what you're saying is that the 15-22 is a defective firearm ("the firearms fault") because it allows the firing pin to release when out of battery. Since the 15-22 is the way it is, and because people (I think you?) have told me that almost all .22's work that way, I don't personally call it a fault.

Yes, it IS a design fault - common to all blow-back operated firearms. Recoil-operated firearms don't normally have the problem because they don't have the capability of being fired in an unlocked condition.

And finally, if a specific round of ammo will either misfire, or not fire, in every gun I've tried, /I/ call that an ammo fault, not a firearm fault. You can call it whatever you like.

Yea, that's an ammo fault. I have already agreed with you on that. And what does this have to do with the discussion of an out-of-battery firing? Nothing at all! You are mixing two totally different problems.

[rraisley]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

Yea, that's an ammo fault. I have already agreed with you on that. And what does this have to do with the discussion of an out-of-battery firing? Nothing at all! You are mixing two totally different problems.

Well, since it's the combination of defective ammo AND a firearm which allows out-of-battery firing that results in the problem, then it's not two totally different problems. And if design fault is common with all blow-back firearms, then the only thing we have control over is the problematic ammo.

In any event, as I said, call it what you want. As this is a 15-22 forum, I'm going to assume most are using this rifle, and as they're cable of firing OOB, then it would be prudent to select ammo which minimizes this problem. And consider any ammo which cannot fire properly in the firearm as defective. Which I do.

[Majorlk]

Whatever you say, Sir ...

[ravridge]

Golfbrad sorry to hear about the problem, glad your ok. Got me thinking, how many guys have had this actually happen to them first hand ?

[NineBear]

Thanks, this topic sure is interesting.

I'm going to get some better shooting glasses. I don't trust the 4 dollar Walmart safety goggles anymore.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Looks familiar. This came out of my 15-22.

When the 15-22 first hit the market this forum was flooded with OOB reports. Some suggested it must be the ammo. As folks sent their rifles back to S&W, they began to install different springs. Magically, all the ammo manufactures started to make great ammo again that rarely creates an OOB in the 15-22.

Golfbrad, when you say you don't think it was a 'double tap fire', is there a firing pin strike... just wonderin?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by golfbrad

Thanks, this topic sure is interesting.

I'm going to get some better shooting glasses. I don't trust the 4 dollar Walmart safety goggles anymore.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Good glasses are very cheap eye insurance! Make sure to get the wrap-around kind.

[NineBear]

Yes, it has a very front strike on the very edge.
I'll have to check out my good strikes.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[hkyplr]

I had an OOB myself once, but in my case it didn't fire. It just went click and when I looked at the bolt, it was out about 1\4" or so. I pulled the round and there was NO primer strike. Don't know if the bolt was out far enough for the FP to not get struck by the hammer or what...

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by hkyplr

I had an OOB myself once, but in my case it didn't fire. It just went click and when I looked at the bolt, it was out about 1\4" or so. I pulled the round and there was NO primer strike. Don't know if the bolt was out far enough for the FP to not get struck by the hammer or what...

How can you have an OOB if the cartridge didn't fire?

[hkyplr]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

How can you have an OOB if the cartridge didn't fire?

Okay, for lack of a better term...
The cartridge was out of battery, even though it didn't fire...

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by hkyplr

Okay, for lack of a better term...
The cartridge was out of battery, even though it didn't fire...

That's an ammo jam, not OOB. The bolt is out of battery, not the cartridge.

[RonJon]

This one occurred on 9/30/2012 using Federal Champion 525 round value pack ammo. First OOB I'd ever experienced with any of my collection of firearms.

This happened when my son was firing the rifle. (He got a very slight cut on his finger from shrapnel, but a little dab of antiseptic from the 1st Aid kit in my range bag took care of that).

We stopped immediately and examined the rifle and the bore - The bullet made it out of the barrel OK (whew!).

However, the rifle lost the entire 3 extractor parts (spring, retaining pin and extractor).



I FedEx'd my rifle to S&W yesterday along with the recovered casing in the above pictures.

RonJon

[Majorlk]

Interesting markings on the head in the last photo. I can see where the firing pin and extractor marks are, but I wonder what the one on other side is.

I'm glad your son is OK.

How many rounds since the last cleaning, especially the bolt face?

[RonJon]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

Interesting markings on the head in the last photo. I can see where the firing pin and extractor marks are, but I wonder what the one on other side is.

I'm glad your son is OK.

How many rounds since the last cleaning, especially the bolt face?

We had fired only between 150 - 200 rounds since the last cleaning (I clean after every range trip).

RonJon

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by RonJon

We had fired only between 150 - 200 rounds since the last cleaning (I clean after every range trip).

RonJon

Just eliminating mitigating factors.

[w0ady]

glad to hear no one was hurt! do you have the lot # and did you contact federal? i wonder who ends up covering the final cost of repairs between s&w and federal.

[RonJon]

Originally Posted by w0ady

glad to hear no one was hurt! do you have the lot # and did you contact federal? i wonder who ends up covering the final cost of repairs between s&w and federal.

No lot# for the ammo available - The box had been trashed long before the OOB.

S&W said they will fix it free under their Lifetime Service Policy.

I just included the recovered casing for the S&W people to inspect in case it might help find what caused it.

RonJon

[w0ady]

thats great service right there!

[Majorlk]

FWIW, the two most important parts to clean are the breech face and the bolt face. It is very easy for crud to build up in the bolt face and when it does, it's very hard. If it builds up enough, it can prevent the case head from fitting into the bolt face, creating an out of battery condition that's not always apparent.

The bolt face is the one place I flood with solvent and use a dental pick to make sure there's nothing left. I generally use GunScrubber or the CLP Breakfree equivalent, rather than plain CLP and scrub with a still toothbrush or a brass brush. Then I use the pick to make sure there's nothing left in the bolt face recesses. I probably spend more time on the bolt face than any other part.

A magnifying glass or a jeweler's loupe (better) is great for getting a close look at the bolt face.

[RonJon]

Majorik,

That's good advice.

One question - Do you do that at the range after every so many rounds (if so - about how many rounds between each cleaning?). or only when you clean it at the end of the range session?

I know that some brands of .22 LR are VERY sooty - And sometimes, it seems, even on brands that are usually relatively clean shooting (as Federal seemed to be vs (for example) Remington).

RonJon

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by RonJon

Majorik,

That's good advice.

One question - Do you do that at the range after every so many rounds (if so - about how many rounds between each cleaning?). or only when you clean it at the end of the range session?

I don't do any cleaning at the range, although I do keep a BoreSnake in the range box - don't know why, I've never used it at the range.

My normal range outing has me going through a box of Federal Champions - 525 rounds. When I get home I run the BoreSnake through the bore, blow out the lower with compressed and and clean the bolt face. Every other box I clean the inside of the upper and more thoroughly clean the inside of the lower, in addition to the bore and bolt face. One of the problems with a semi-auto over a bolt action is that in the bolt action, the bolt is locked into place and 99 percent of the firing residue goes through the bore. With a blow-back semi-auto like the 15-22, the majority of the residue is blown back into the action, especially the bolt face.

I know that some brands of .22 LR are VERY sooty - And sometimes, it seems, even on brands that are usually relatively clean shooting (as Federal seemed to be vs (for example) Remington).

RonJon

Yup, and the trick is finding clean ammo that shoots well in your firearm.

[GM4spd]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

Others will disagree with me, but I have never seen an OOB that wasn't caused by a problem with the firearm. Ammo doesn't go off it's the firearm's fault.

I have to agree with this---as much as I like S&W,I have
been reading for quite awhile of these OOBs,I don't
understand how S&W can chance the liability of someone
getting hurt. I have a SIG522 that I have shot 1000s of
rds thru and I have not had this (OOB) experience. Pete

[RonJon]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

I don't do any cleaning at the range[...]
My normal range outing has me going through a box of Federal Champions - 525 rounds.

Well, I too was firing from a box of Federal Champions - 525 rounds, (but less than 200 of them last Sunday).

So, I guess there was that 1 in 100,000 that was a defective Federal Champion round that had some kind of deformity that kept it from going all the way into the 15-22's chamber, or else there was something that went wrong with the rifle.

Anyway, I have confidence that S&W will find and fix it so it doesn't keep on happening.

The customer service and Lifetime Service policy at S&W is GREAT, but it's still a hassle to box it all up and send it FedEx ground and wait for weeks to get it back!

I could have installed another extractor myself in about 10 minutes, but S&W doesn't want me to do that (and won't merely send me the parts in an envelope) because they want to go over the whole rifle and all my magazines to be sure there isn't something else wrong.

RonJon

[NineBear]

Update to my mini-explosion.
I cleaned my AR15-22 tonight, first time out of the case since the incident and it no longer works. It won't hold a magazine in place, no matter what I try. And it won't cycle a round into the chamber. I messed up several rounds of CCI Mini-mags trying to get it to lock the bolt in place.
It also has a real hard time locking the bolt open. 1 in 5 tries will result in simple lock open of the bolt.
The round goes in to the barrel 3/4 of the way, but marks up the brass and bends the bullet out of the casing, and the bolt only closes 2/3rds of the way....kind of like the day it blew up the round.
I will call the local gun shop and see if they will replace or it must go back to S&W. Purchased on 8/3, but not sure of local policy.

[RonJon]

Originally Posted by golfbrad

Update to my mini-explosion.
I cleaned my AR15-22 tonight, first time out of the case since the incident and it no longer works. It won't hold a magazine in place, no matter what I try. And it won't cycle a round into the chamber. I messed up several rounds of CCI Mini-mags trying to get it to lock the bolt in place.
It also has a real hard time locking the bolt open. 1 in 5 tries will result in simple lock open of the bolt.
The round goes in to the barrel 3/4 of the way, but marks up the brass and bends the bullet out of the casing, and the bolt only closes 2/3rds of the way....kind of like the day it blew up the round.
I will call the local gun shop and see if they will replace or it must go back to S&W. Purchased on 8/3, but not sure of local policy.

My advice is to skip the local gun smith and send it to S&W - They have the smarts & parts to make your M&P15-22 like new again (and possibly make some updates that improve the reliability too!).

Just dial 1-800-331-0852 x2905 and tell them your woes that you had with it, the serial #, and your address, email, etc. Then they will email you instructions and a printable prepaid label to stick on your well boxed-up rifle and FedEx will actually make you a house call to pick it up when you are ready to send it - That's all there is to it, and there is NO cost to you thanx to their Lifetime Service policy!

Don't forget to make a copy of the mailing label for your records too since it has the tracking # at the bottom of it so you can follow its progress on the FedEx internet site back to Springfield and you will know if and when it arrives alright (They say that they insure it too to cover if it gets lost or damaged in shipment!).

BTW the tracking number was somewhat confusing to me to locate it, I asked the FedEx driver and it's near the bottom of the label and has the following format:

(nnnnnnn) nnnnnnn nnnnnnnn

The "n"s are all numeric digits. You should enter the whole thing including the parentheses).

That's the only way to go in my opinion, but it's your gun so do with it as YOU see fit!

RonJon

[w0ady]

Originally Posted by golfbrad

Update to my mini-explosion.
I cleaned my AR15-22 tonight, first time out of the case since the incident and it no longer works. It won't hold a magazine in place, no matter what I try. And it won't cycle a round into the chamber. I messed up several rounds of CCI Mini-mags trying to get it to lock the bolt in place.
It also has a real hard time locking the bolt open. 1 in 5 tries will result in simple lock open of the bolt.
The round goes in to the barrel 3/4 of the way, but marks up the brass and bends the bullet out of the casing, and the bolt only closes 2/3rds of the way....kind of like the day it blew up the round.
I will call the local gun shop and see if they will replace or it must go back to S&W. Purchased on 8/3, but not sure of local policy.

+1 for sending your 15-22 back to s&w.

we have a whole thread on how its NOT an ar1515-22.

Should we refer to our rifle as an AR 15-22 or ...

[NineBear]

Update on my AR-15 shell blow up,
I had the local dealer send this back to S&W. It took 11 days from start to finish, I was quite surprised to get it back so quickly.
It is very interesting that the only thing they fixed/replaced was the firing pin (new one). The gun would not cycle a round from the Mag to the breach so I would have thought something else was needed.

I went to the range and put 325 rounds of CCI Mini-mags and Federal Bulk 550 down range and it works great. Very pleased with how fast the repair was performed and the end result.

On a side note, I grabbed an M&P 22 pistol 11 days ago (funny how that math works out)....
This is a great 22 semi-auto pistol which is about as much fun to shoot as big brother AR15-22.

[Vision Remodeling]

[QUOTE=Majorlk;136737835]FWIW,

The bolt face is the one place I flood with solvent and use a dental pick to make sure there's nothing left. I generally use GunScrubber or the CLP Breakfree equivalent, rather than plain CLP and scrub with a still toothbrush or a brass brush. Then I use the pick to make sure there's nothing left in the bolt face recesses. I probably spend more time on the bolt face than any other part.


+1 for this at home every 500. I have had one winchester round do this to me, no other problems with 2000+ rounds of federal.

[Majorlk]

[QUOTE=Vision Remodeling;136763879]

Originally Posted by Majorlk

FWIW,

The bolt face is the one place I flood with solvent and use a dental pick to make sure there's nothing left. I generally use GunScrubber or the CLP Breakfree equivalent, rather than plain CLP and scrub with a still toothbrush or a brass brush. Then I use the pick to make sure there's nothing left in the bolt face recesses. I probably spend more time on the bolt face than any other part.


+1 for this at home every 500. I have had one winchester round do this to me, no other problems with 2000+ rounds of federal.

Same here, and have done so on every firearm with a bolt I have - pistol and rifle alike. Perhaps that's why, over the years, I never have the problems many others report.

[photoracer]

Originally Posted by Gunzilla

To reduce the chances of this happening at the Tactical .22 matches I've started spraying a light coat of Remoil on the rounds just before loading the magazines.

It may not prevent an out-of-battery discharge 100% but it's nice to know that if the chamber is totally dry the ammo is not and will likely load and eject as designed.

Does anyone else do this when they know they will be firing a lot of rounds in 1 range session?

This is basically absurd. One reason is .22 LR already has lube on the case of every brand there is just for this reason and one other. So all you are really doing is putting lube on an already lubed case. Also one reason why any decent rimfire benchrest shooter will tell you the firearm will shoot better a little dirty.
Plus you will find that rimfires have much more feeding and firing issues during colder weather. They tend to be sensitive to the amount of humidity in the air also. At the most I recommend putting a drop of oil on the top round in the mag in colder weather to help it function ( more of a pistol issue). I also advocate keeping you ammo warm if you shoot thru the winter, like my club does. Empty your ammo out of its boxes into a plastic case and drop a couple of activated WM handwarmers in there. You will find your gun shoots trouble free during the winter as long as the ammo, and its lube coating, stays fluid and does not cake up.
I do spray one quick spray of RemOil when filling up my UCL with ammo during colder weather for my pistols for the same reason I just mentioned. It feeds the rounds in quick and fast like summer.

[photoracer]

[QUOTE=Majorlk;136763902]

Originally Posted by Vision Remodeling

Same here, and have done so on every firearm with a bolt I have - pistol and rifle alike. Perhaps that's why, over the years, I never have the problems many others report.

I do something similar but not near as often, maybe every 1000-2000 rounds and usually never right after I get home from the range. As for issues doing it more often will have little or no impact. Of my 2 primary .22 competition guns my Buckmark (50k+ rounds) and my 15-22 PC (20k+ rounds) have never had any issues related to firing or cycling (my BM has a worn out extractor and my 15-22 has a mag issue with the last round that S&W keeps trying to get me to send in but I don't since it shoots fine). Maybe I will let them look at it during the winter now that I have a 2nd one as a backup.

[RonJon]

I received it back via FedEx last Tuesday the 16th (I sent it out on Oct 3 - so 13 day turn around).

According to the brief sheet included from S&W, all that was done was the extractor and it's supporting parts (spring and plunger) were replaced. The new extractor had the "tab" that is supposed to stabilize it on it (I cannot remember if the original had the tab or not - When was that added? Would mine, with the serial number of DVW602x have had that tab originally? Anybody else having a S/N close to that know?)

I could have replaced the extractor myself in 10 minutes and saved S&W the trouble and expense if they would have just sent/sold it to me - but they don't do it that way.

Anyway, I did a very extensive cleaning (Majorlk - bolt face included), took it out to the range yesterday and fired 200 rounds of Federal Champion thru it without a single hitch at all! The very first 25 rounds at 25 yards all grouped in the bullseye at 1 1/4" using the iron sights.

I DID have my son watching the bolt as I slow fired to make sure that it went into battery with each of the first 25 rounds to MAKE SURE that the OOB wouldn't happen again (It worked fine and went into battery every time!)

RonJon