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  #1  
Old 11-18-2012, 06:08 PM
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Default Muzzle Brake

Anyone running a muzzle brake on their 15-22? I'm sure to get flamed for this but a little more "CRACK!!!" when I pull the trigger wouldn't be a bad thing. If you are running one, did you notice it being louder after the fact?
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:38 PM
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I have a Tactical Solutions 2211 compensator on mine. It's actually made for their 1911 .22 conversions, but it's a good match for the 15-22. I haven't paid that much attention to noise, so I guess there's not much additional report. It has made a slight change to the muzzle rise. It IS a PITB to clean, however. After 500 or so rounds, it takes a lot of work with GunScrubber or PowerBlaster to get the debris out - the stuff is hard as a rock!!!

If I had it to do over again, I probably wouldn't, but I can't put an A2 flash hider on it in Connecticut; I can put a muzzle break.

2211 Compensator | Tactical Solutions
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:45 PM
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My brake takes that initial high pitch crack out of the sound. It's no louder or quieter, just better, even with ear plugs.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:33 PM
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I have a tromix knock off and I haven't noticed any real difference shooting it. Haven't had anyone shoot it so I could hear it from the side though.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:18 AM
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try a muzzle booster
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:23 AM
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You want a "crack"? Wait a bit until someone puts out a carbine chambered for the .22 TCM; that should clean your sinuses out! I have a Rock Island 1911 that runs it and had people six-lanes away at the range come down to see what kind of howitzer I was shooting. Between the 2000 fps-plus velocity noise and the big fireballs it made, that gun was quite the topic of discussion. Not much recoil either, about like a .22 Mag. After I blew through a box of ammo (50 rounds) and went home the range called and told me they were banning it because it's "too hot"! Oh well, there are other ranges! Can't wait until someone does an AR platform for the stuff.
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:32 AM
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I run a Nordic Tactical on my speed competition 15-22 so that it will make more noise to the side. The run of the mill speed timers used for competition sometimes have trouble picking up the sound of the round going off on a .22LR.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:02 PM
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What brand of timer are you using? We hold ours fairly close for the last few shots and have no problems. We even have a few guys running suppressors and we really don't have any issues. Just remember to hold the timer as close as possible to the breech.
RichH
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoracer View Post
I run a Nordic Tactical on my speed competition 15-22 so that it will make more noise to the side. The run of the mill speed timers used for competition sometimes have trouble picking up the sound of the round going off on a .22LR.
Absolutely true...
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:06 PM
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I have the Jerry Maculek muzzle break on mine. The shooter doesn't get the benefit of loud noise, but I've had a couple of people tell me it is plenty loud from the side!
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:24 PM
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Photo racer and Jammer?
You think adding a brake really reduced muzzle flip or did you do it to give a louder report at the timer.
Due to the light weight of the 15-22, mine jumps off target a good amount hampering a fast second shot.
I added some weight to my vertical forgrip useing lead inside the chamber, that seemed to help. So, I was wondering if there is enough spent gasses behind a 22 lr to justify purchasing a working break, not to be confused with a flash suppressor.
Thank you.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lager View Post
Photo racer and Jammer?
You think adding a brake really reduced muzzle flip or did you do it to give a louder report at the timer.
Due to the light weight of the 15-22, mine jumps off target a good amount hampering a fast second shot.
I added some weight to my vertical forgrip useing lead inside the chamber, that seemed to help. So, I was wondering if there is enough spent gasses behind a 22 lr to justify purchasing a working break, not to be confused with a flash suppressor.
Thank you.
There's no massive muzzle jump on my 15-22 there IS a noticeable difference with the brake I use. Of course, that's subjective and not measured in any way.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:42 PM
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Heres one I been working on. I hope to test it on my 15-22 this weekend when I receive it from the machineshop
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:53 PM
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You won't get any muzzle-rise reduction without at least a single vent on the top unless the side vents are sharply angled upward.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majorlk View Post
You won't get any muzzle-rise reduction without at least a single vent on the top unless the side vents are sharply angled upward.
I agree just waiting to see how this one works. I was originally going to design one similar to the 50 cal with the vents point to the side and rear. I can still make changes and get it out to the shop.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:11 PM
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Majorlk,while there is no massive muzzle jump on my 15-22 also?
If I can use a cheap modification to keep my sights on a 4 inch target @25 yards and squeeze off a fast second shot they require at my local steel action matches.Im got an advantage on the young guys that use their increased mobility against my old self,that might not consider using a brake. Cause its just a 22 lr?
You say, you think your works? So what kind do you use?
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:17 PM
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Lager:

Read post number 2. It will show you what I use.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyJack2012 View Post
I'm sure to get flamed for this but a little more "CRACK!!!" when I pull the trigger wouldn't be a bad thing.

CCI Stingers would probably be a better bet than the muzzle brake.

22LR is most efficient in short barrels. Your 16" 15/22 barrel is actually slowing the round down due to extra length over the optimal figure. The reason for this is the same one that makes muzzle brakes of limited value on rimfire rifles, the round just doesn't produce enough gas to make them work well.

BTW, you're the only guy I've ever heard of that wants his rifle to be louder.
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:45 PM
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I bought a Yankee Hill (stab them in the head type) just because it looked cool, and Midway had then on sell.
It is well made and does look cool(to me).

Can't really tell any difference on my 15/22. But it seems to work well with my M4.
Midway # 124-926. With shipping was ~$20.00.
Very easy to install. Suggest using a small drop of blue loctite, so it won't shoot lose.

Guy22
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lager View Post
Photo racer and Jammer?
You think adding a brake really reduced muzzle flip or did you do it to give a louder report at the timer.
Due to the light weight of the 15-22, mine jumps off target a good amount hampering a fast second shot.
I added some weight to my vertical forgrip useing lead inside the chamber, that seemed to help. So, I was wondering if there is enough spent gasses behind a 22 lr to justify purchasing a working break, not to be confused with a flash suppressor.
Thank you.
As for the break issue the previous post was correct. Insufficient gas to make the brake work unless you want to use Stingers or Velocitors. Comps work Ok on pistols as long as you are using HV or faster rounds. The absolute best brake is one of the symmetric multihole like the ones put out by Tac Sol or VQ. Even .223 testing has proved that those give the best recoil reduction, reduced muzzle flip, and best accuracy. But you can't use those shooting from the prone position so no one in 3-gun will use one. Instead you use one with big side ports to stabilize the barrel in the horizontal axis and put a few holes on top to help eliminate muzzle rise. Angling the holes will affect recoil as well. The Stag 3-gun brake is the only one I know that actually forces the barrel down in recoil. It has no big ports but several spread around the top half and 3 that port out the front of the brake. Most 3-gunners using the Stag have swapped the brake for something else like the Rolling Thunder. I use an AR-Stoner Competition Brake which is simliar to the Rolling Thunder with 3 big side ports and 3 little ones on top in a fairly flat type brake. Tactical Optics rules are it can be no longer than 3" and no wider than 1".

Sorry but using a vertical grip will definitely not allow you to go as fast or as accurately as you need for speed steel competition. They are useful in many combat situations when you are behind a barrier and in buildings when you might be forced to take the gun off the shoulder in CQB situations. But for steel and 3-gun the technique of using a long handguard and having your offhand grip around the barrel as far down as you can not only aids you in transition speed it also locks the barrel more solidly due to increased leverage. You have to anchor the rifle in 2 dimensions to really lock it down. So putting your trigger arm into your body to lock down the vertical dimension and using your off arm at 90 degrees to lock the gun in the horizontal direction has been found to be the best setup. I think Daniel Horner of the Army's AMU has a video on it. Considering I'm 65 I need all the leverage I can get. I tried a vertical grip and the dot wavered too much. The Magpul AFG was better but my arm was mostly under the rifle still. So I watched how Jerry and BJ hold an AR when speed shooting and emulated that.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:39 PM
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Wait till you see the forward grip I am coming out with next month.
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