Does the Hoppes boresnake for .22 rifle also work with an M&P AR 15-22? Does it get stuck easily?

works great with my 15-22. Pulls through like it should, nice and snug!

how wet/moist does the boresnake need to be?

Put a few drops of CLP on the front half of the bronze brush part of the bore snake and you'll be GTG. It doesn't take much.

you sure, mine was stuck in there real bad, had to put the end of the snake under my foot and had to pull my upper with all my strength

I spray the barrel and then pull the snake through.

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Existimo ergo sum armis

Just put a little squirt of CLP (or whatever you use) on the part of the bore snake where the brush is, it doesn't take a lot. Mine was pretty snug the first time I used it but its not as bad now. Make sure to clean your bore snake from time to time also.

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Sappers Lead The Way

How are you supposed to clean it?


Sent from my IdeaTabA2109A using Tapatalk 2

I just soak mine in an old coffee can with HOT water and some dish soap. Shake well every so often , rinse , hang to dry

I just wash mine in the sink with hot water and soap then just hang it up to dry.

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Sappers Lead The Way

I love boresnakes, I use them for every firearm. They tend to be really stiff the first few pulls, but they break in quickly and last a long time. On an M4 I had to do the same thing the first time I used my snake, had to yank really hard on it to get it through, then the next pass went good and stiff, very effective. Don't worry though, as long as its not a really cheap snake, it won't cause any damage to your bore, I have seen some really cheap ones that looked like the brush was made of a silver metal instead of copper. Those I would stay away from. If they are the wrong metal they can mess your rifling up bad, or worse.

The only problem I've had is the last 1/2" of the BoreSnake getting stuck at the breech. More on my 15-22 than on pistols. It knots or kinks easily there. I fixed it by simply cutting it 1/2" short. Still cleans great, now pulls through easily.

I also use a BoreSnake for quick cleaning sessions. However I still use the copper brush on a cleaning rod along with several pull throughs with cloth patches until I'm satisfied the barrel is clean.

A little cleaner, pull through a few times and good to go

Paying attention to what the end of the snake is doing negates the need to cut it off.

If you don't think the BoreSnake is getting the barrel clean, why bother with it in the first place? Unless there is heavy copper fouling the BS will remove 100 percent of anything in the barrel with three passes. And copper-washed/plated .22s don't leave copper fouling in a barrel.

Whatever turns you on ...

I've never fired my 15-22, but the first thing I did was clean the barrel with a BoreSnake. The only issue I had was the end of the BoreSnake getting caught on the Extractor. That was in part because it was extremely difficult to pull the BoreSnake through the barrel, taking my concentration away from what the other end of the BoreSnake was doing. I think when the time comes to do it again, I'm going to place a plastic straw over the Extractor so that the end of the BoreSnake has nothing to catch.

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Boz

The "head" of the snake is where the struggle comes in. After a few times, it will soften and pass through much easier. Trying to use the snake dry exacerbates the problem.

Too wet can make it tricky too.
My first time it was a tough pull. but it got better fast.

With a quick squirt of Rem oil, I sprayed both brushes and down the barrel. I do not believe I overly sprayed either the brushes or the barrel. Perhaps I under-sprayed?

The BoreSnake was so difficult to pull through that at one point I thought I was going to tear off the paracord from the snake. But, I see now that over time this should become easier.

I finally had a chance to take the 15-22 to the range. I only had enough time to go through 100 rounds, with two failed to fire. When I returned home I decided to clean the barrel with the BoreSnake. Again it was difficult. When I was finished, it occurred to me, instead of starting the BoreSnake from the breach, perhaps it would be easier to start the BoreSnake from the muzzle.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't clean from the muzzle to the breach?

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Boz

RemOil does nothing to clean a barrel. There are much better products on the market, especially any of the CLP variants.

The head of the snake (not the brushes) needs to be WET. It softens and compresses to fit the bore. It IS tight; it's supposed to be. It does get easier with a few dozen passes as the head stays compressed more.

There is nothing to be gained by inserting from the muzzle and something to be lost. First, you don't have the slightly larger chamber to start the compression of the head. Second, you don't get as much scrubbing of the front of the chamber as you do with a chamber insertion.

If the BoreSnake is especially tight AFTER the very end has entered the barrel, or just as the very end is about to go into the barrel (usually caused by a slight kink in the end of the BS), simply cut off the last 1/2" of the BS. This made a world of difference for me, and it still works and cleans great.

Pardon my ignorance. I'm using Rem Oil as a lubricant and rust inhibitor, the BoreSnake is the cleaning agent. My LGS suggested Rem Oil over CLP in that capacity, so that's what I purchased. IIRC, he said that Rem Oil has Teflon and CLP has a tendency to become gummy over a short period of time.

The BoreSnake package instructions do not mention any lubricating being used. For that I followed the "Notable Thread Index" Sticky at the top of the forum for the "M&P 15-22 Instructional Video Series" from user 'Brett248vista'. In the "Cleaning And Lubricating" instructional video on YouTube, 'Brett248vista' lubricates both brushes and the breach before pulling the BoreSnake through the barrel and out the muzzle.

Both points makes sense and I'll continue to clean breach first.

After asking the question about the BoreSnake direction in here, I did a search over on YouTube and did find someone cleaning their M&P 15-22 muzzle first. Unfortunately, when I tried to include a direct video link with the current time, the forum software incorrectly parsed the URL. Wrapping HTML around the URL completely broke the editor preview. That's three issues I've encountered with the forum. The third being the arrow link GIF in the quote box to return to the original post which besides going to the original post also opens a new tab displaying only the arrow GIF.

Anyway, the point I was going to make was that in the video he also sprays the first and main floss area, and not the brass brushes.

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Boz

The boresnake is no more the cleaning agent than a dry patch is. In both cases, there needs to be something to dissolve the powder residue - RemOil isn't it, in my opinion.

Neither do instructions for cleaning patches. The BS is simply a combination brush and patch combines into one. BOTH need a liquid cleaning agent to dissolve powder residue. You use a solvent, not a stand-alone lubricant, to clean with. FWIW, RemOil is the most over-rated gun product on the market. It's basically mineral oil, nothing more, nothing less.

Good for him; he just another guy like you and me.

You asked some questions and I gave you my answers, based on using BoreSnakes almost exclusively since they first came out.

I have avoided using a BoreSnake on my .22's because of conflicting information about their ease of use and additive requirements and because I'm an old fart who was brought-up on cleaning rods and proper patch-protocol (solvent-dry-solvent-dry-dry-lube-dry [if firing again within a week]) and-chamber-to-muzzle always (same path as the bullet). From the discussion here I think I will try one of these things and draw my own conclusions. Thank you all for your input.

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Vide - Aude - Tace

I was a Rod & Patch guy for more than a couple of decades until I discovered BoreSnakes. I'll resort to a rod, brush and patch if I have a copper fouling problem, but that's it.

First off, use a straw and place it over the ejector... you don't want to bend it.

I spray the barrel down with CLP or Mpro 7 then put some CLP on the bronze brushes and again on the cloth a bit after the brushes.

Clean the boresnake in a bucket or something with some dish soap or just warm water.

You don't want the wife complaining about the washing machine or kitchen sink.....

I to was a rod and patch "old school" guy... that's how I was brought up... but after using a boresnake (clp at the beginning and before the brush) I've never looked back... It just works.

Majorlk,
Do you think the BS cleans just as good as traditional methods (patches/brushes). I ask because as a newb that's all I know. I read on another forum that it's just a short cut kinda cleaning and is not as affective as patches/brushes.

I feel it does a dang good job. I use them in my 22,556 and 9mm and the barrel is always clean after just one swip.
Thanks,
Kiel

You didn't address this to me, but I'll give my opinion anyhow. IMHO, a BoreSnake cleans much better than the traditional methods. While you can make a case that a stiff bronze brush may clean stubborn deposits out of a barrel better than those on the BS, everything else about the BS process cleans better. Far more surface area (compare the BS to the piddly little cotton patches we push through again and again) cleans far better. I use a BS on all my weapons now.

If I have a VERY dirty or problematic bore, I will saturate a patch with solvent and pull it through the bore once, to coat the barrel's inside (I used to immerse my .45 barrels in CLP and let them soak). After it's saturated a bit, the rest of the cleaning will always be done with the BS. If I want a light coat of additional (and clean) oil on the bore, I'll take a patch with oil through it. But the actual CLEANING is always done with the BS at my house.

For several decades I was a rabid rod/brush/patch man. I switched several years ago and never looked back. The only situation currently that I would use a rod and patch for is in the case of heavy copper fouling with hot .357 Magnum and .45 Colt handloads. I don't do much of that any more, so it's really not an issue. Even the cleaning of my 9mm and .40S&W barrels is handled nicely by Breakfree CLP and the BoreSnakes. BTW, I have seven of them.

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Thanks! One more question not to thread drift, but what about shooting steel case ammo such as tulammo through my 556. I have yet to shoot any steel case ammo beacuse I just don't have any experiance with them. With cost and such going up on ammo I might try to pick some up for storage and shoot a few hundred rounds just to make sure they cycle fine. From what I understand the ammo is not bad for the gun, but leaves alot of **** in the barrel which causes brass ammo cases to get stuck. Do you think the BS is good enough to clean out the barrel after shooting the steel casue stuff or should I get a brush for this reason? Or just stay away from the steel case ammo.

Just used a bore snake for the first time today. I first placed a straw over the extractor as suggested. Then I soaked the snake fabric before the brushes with some cleaner, left a stretch of dry fabric, and then put some oil towards the end of the snake.

I pulled the snake through with a firm, steady pull. I had my foot on the end of the snake anticipating problems, but this wasn't really necessary. Once the BS "aligned" in the barrel it came through without any problems. I did this three times. The barrel is nice and clean to say the least.

Have to say it doesn't get much easier than that.

Clean the chamber after shooting steel cased ammo and you should have no problem. The problem comes when you try to shoot brass-case ammo without cleaning the chamber.

FWIW, the steel-case problem was caused by the lacquer coating on the cases melting. As far as I know, all current steel-case ammo has a polymer coating that does not melt. Most of the time, the ammo description will indicate which coating the ammo has. I see a couple of thousand rounds of steel-case ammo go downrange every weekend at my range and don'r see any particular problems.

Quick newbie question -- what is the best way to clean the chamber? Have read plenty on how to clean the bolt and barrel -- but nothing on cleaning the chamber itself.

BoreSnake. It cleans the chamber as it is pulled through the barrel, just like using a rod, brush and patches does.