Flash hider removal

[semsora]

The flash hider I on my 15-22 required three set screws and some red loctite. I'd like to remove it now and the flash hider isn't budging. I've managed to remove the set screws, but there must be some loctite between the barrel and flash hider.

Any suggestions on how to remove it?

[Jyezahn]

Heat it up with a torch lighter, right at the set screw locations and along the crush washer seam. It should move then with a wrench and some tapping.

[SimpleWeaponSolutions]

Jyezahn is right, since you used red loctite you will have to apply heat. Just make sure you're clamping on to the barrel and not the upper receiver as you could damage it.

Also, what flash hider do you have that requires 3 set screws?

[semsora]

Thanks, I'll try heating it at work tomorrow. There isn't a crush washer...it just slid over the barrel, but the heat should do the trick.

[tacticool22]

Originally Posted by SimpleWeaponSolutions

Jyezahn is right, since you used red loctite you will have to apply heat. Just make sure you're clamping on to the barrel and not the upper receiver as you could damage it.

Also, what flash hider do you have that requires 3 set screws?

It's a cheap one

[semsora]

Originally Posted by tacticool22

It's a cheap one

Correct...but it served it purpose. I'm trying to remove it to get the barrel threaded. Several years ago, that wasn't part of the plan. Circumstances change.

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by semsora

The flash hider I on my 15-22 required three set screws and some red loctite.

If you used Red, you WILL have to use a torch to break the bond, although there is a chemical that can be used, but I don't remember what it is. Google Red LocTite and you should be able to find it. Doubtless you not only have to break loose the three screws but the LocTite that seeped between the FH and the barrel.

Personally, I would never use Red on anything unless I never, ever want to remove whatever it is. Red is one of those that is considered "permanent". Blue is more than sufficient for anything on a firearm.

[semsora]

Oddly, the three set screws came right out. I must have applied some between it and the barrel...maybe more than some. I used the locktite that came with it not realizing that it wansn't intended to be removed.

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by semsora

Oddly, the three set screws came right out. I must have applied some between it and the barrel...maybe more than some. I used the locktite that came with it not realizing that it wansn't intended to be removed.

Yea, I noticed some months back that they recommended Red. That's just one reason I have never done business with them, though the primary reason is their products are cheap - not inexpensive, cheaply made. I've seen some of them on 15-22s and 10/22s here and none of them impressed me.

I'm glad the screws came out; that was my big concern.

[semsora]

Brought them to work and had the maintenance guy put a hand-held torch to them. In a couple of seconds they popped right off! Shoo's wrench worked like a charm too. Now to send them off to get threaded. Thanks for the help and direction.

[Majorlk]

Originally Posted by semsora

Brought them to work and had the maintenance guy put a hand-held torch to them. In a couple of seconds they popped right off! Shoo's wrench worked like a charm too. Now to send them off to get threaded. Thanks for the help and direction.

Glad you didn't have any further problem getting it off.

[semsora]

Has anyone used this company to have a barrel threaded? There prices look in line with what Belt_Fed was charging and if their website is accurate, they've been doing this for a while. I'm thinking of sending my two barrels up to have them threaded

Also, when is it necessary to have a threaded spacer for a silencer, (and why)? Does it depend on the model is one always needed.

Any input or opinions would be appreciated

www.jpgrips.com

[roadkill45]

on a direct screw on can you should not need a spacer, that is unless you are concerned with how it looks. sometimes the can will not screw on all the way since it has a stop in it. then you can just put a black crush washer on it and it will fill the gap without crushing. or a black plastic washer with the same dimensions works will also.
if not concerned and the gun will not be the permanent host then no big deal, just screw it on. my 15-22 has a Pilot II as a permanent can so i put a plastic washer on it just so it didn't show those last 2 threads, but have since built my own shroud out of PVC that covers the can and runs down about halfway inside of the handguards.
makes it look fatter and more appropriate.
on my real AR's the Gemtechs and AAC's all screw all the way down w/o issue.
if you get a sealed can, once you can't get the lead out with dipping/soaking, send it off to get jailbroken, works wonders on an old sealed can i had, the company made it a take apart, cleaned it all for $100+.
the other .22's are already take aparts and a cheap harbor freight blast box with walnut shells takes care of the insides really fast and cheap.

you will go from a 8 ounce can to a 2 pound can really quick with subsonics!!!!!

[tacticool22]

Some .22LR only cans have a .450 length from the start of the threads to the first baffle. The standard thread length for the barrel is .625. I don't know why they do that, but if you get a .223 / 5.56mm can, you will have no troubles. You don't use crush washers with a can.
There are some flash hiders or muzzle brakes that have a suppressor attacment built in.

[semsora]

Thanks for the input, guys!

[photoracer]

The take off chemical for thread locker is acetone. That means in a pinch, and you are not worrying about contamination, you can use fingernail polish remover from your significant other's cosmetic stash. Acetone is also the #1 chemical for professionally cleaning optics, but you need regent grade pure acetone (Lowe's or Home Depot). However it will eat plastic right up so like I said it is a cleaner for pros (me for instance).

[Locked-N-Loaded]

Originally Posted by semsora

Has anyone used this company to have a barrel threaded? There prices look in line with what Belt_Fed was charging and if their website is accurate, they've been doing this for a while. I'm thinking of sending my two barrels up to have them threaded

Also, when is it necessary to have a threaded spacer for a silencer, (and why)? Does it depend on the model is one always needed.

Any input or opinions would be appreciated

www.jpgrips.com

There is a guy on eBay that has 100% feedback that offers an affordable barel thread for this weapon, see here

As for belt_fed we are about to find out if he is even in business. He stopped positing here, has not been around in months, does not answer PM or email through the site, and his order process is rather archaic off his website. I ordered his charging handle latch as I think it is the best design I have seen. So, I took a leap of faith, sent the money, we will see if he makes it happen. For a barrel thread, I would pass as he is too unknown at this stage & it is to crucial of a piece.

[Tempest 455]

Update: It's off and now the can on. Somebody at the factory thought they were doing a "great job" by putting it as tight as it was. Had to get it very hot and hit it w/ a large hammer on the wrench to break loose. No reason it should have been that tight. Yet some are loose. They should have a ft/lbs standard for torque.

Attached pics. It's fun w/ the can. Yes it cycles full auto with than can and subsonic. Just not w/ the optics on. I have to take them off and put the iron sights on. Optics are borrowed from my LWRC.

Probably the 2nd most fun gun I have!

[semsora]

Locked,

That's the same guy I used but found him on Gunbroker. Looks like he's been around a while, had almost 300 positives, and was responsive to PM's that I sent.

I agree with the BeltFed comment. I wish him well, and hope things work out, but I didn't want to be wondering where my two barrels were. (Although, that would slow down the ammo consumption considerably )

I orderd a spacer, crush washer and an flash suppressor to keep the threads covered. They should be back in a week or so and I'll try to post a pic or two.