Hi guys
does any know of a step by step guide (youtube or pictures) of how to change the latch from the original S&W charging handle to the NDZ one?
Any help would be highly appreciated...

Rod

Use a roll pin punch to remove the pin from the stock handle and latch. Be careful not to let the spring fly out. Transfer the spring to the new handle, slide the latch into the handle, keeping pressure on the spring and align the hole in the latch with the hole in the handle. Press the pin into the hole, hammer if needed.

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M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

Just buy the complete latch/handle from NDZ. putting the aluminum latch on the polymer handle seems, to me at least, a little silly.

I'd say get both the NDZ latch and handle as well. But the OP is talking about using the stock latch on the NDZ handle, not vice versa.

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M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

After reading thread upon thread about changing charging handles, I have to ask why? I understand the factory one is plastic but then again, so is most of the gun. Has anyone ever had a failure of the factory one?

I guess I can understand needing a larger latch if you are doing some sort of timed competitive shooting, but just for normal use, what is wrong with the factory unit? Is this another of these cosmetic things, done by guys who wash & polish their cars every week?

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The factory handle is flimsy, and non-conducive to one-sided charging. Done too many times, it is possible to break the handle with the sheer force of torque. Swapping with a metal one eliminates that possibility. The rest of the gun is not as thin as the handle, therefore not as fragile.

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M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

So has anyone broken one before? Why would I want to charge it one sided? I put a finger on each side & pull back. Once again, I don't shoot for time & have no need to rack the bolt with the gun still in the firing position.

I'm no gun guru but would one-sided charging not put stress on the receiver... which is also plastic? As you said, there is lots of sheer force of torque. I saw a video of some third party charging handles, where the one-sided quick rack was removing the finish from one side of the charging handle. I'm sure this is not an issue on a metal receiver, as was in the video, but makes me wonder what happens to the polymer on this gun.

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Yea, I misread it the first time, but the recommendation to buy both from NDZ still stands.

What's the fixation with washing the car every week? No all southerners are slobs.

No, I haven't broken anything on the rifle, I just prefer the metal charging handle. Personal preference.

You don't see any need to make changes, then don't do it. As I said, it personal preference, like keeping my vehicle clean as opposed to looking like a rolling junk yard.

As a general rule, I only change to improve function. I could care less about how pretty it looks. If there is documented cases of the charging handle failing, then yes, I'll upgrade to aluminum. Just seems odd that S&W would put on a part doomed for failure. To me, it makes sense to have a polymer charging handle running on a polymer lower.

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Yeah, I wouldn't "one side charge" with an aluminum handle in a polymer upper. Common sense says it's a bad idea.

To each his own; that's why there are options. To me, the NDZ charging handle mated with the PT ambi-latch DOES improve functioning - for my shooting. I couldn't care less what it does or doesn't do for you.

For the same reason I have NDZ's oversize mag release button and Speed Bolt Release, MagPul's AFG2 and the SWS brass deflector. They make MY shooting more enjoyable. You've already called my 15-22 a "Barbie" rifle. If you don't like/want any of these things, good for you.

Well, you may be right - in 100,000 rounds or so. In the 8k through my rifle since I changed handles there no wear that can be seen under a magnifying glass. FWIW, the surface of NDZ's charging handle is smoother than the interior of the channel in the upper and the original S&W handle. Smoother surface, less wear.

As I said, if you don't like the change, don't do it.

I ordered Tacticool22's new handle because I feel the stock handle is flimsy, but I would never one-side charge because if you happen to torque the handle to one side too many times instead of pulling straight back it appears that the handle channel would eventually split open.
YMMV.

I'm trying to learn here. How does it help? Since I'm not shooting for time, if I have some sort of failure, I want to know what happened before I rack the bolt. I'm in no rush and I would think the 'normal" shooter wouldn't be in a rush and would want to know what went wrong... why it didn't go bang.

Staring to sound like my wife.

But back to the main issue here, at least for me. Are their documented cases of the stock charging handle failing? Sounds like some don't like it just because it is made of plastic, but how is that different than most of the gun? I will change out mine in a heartbeat if there is a functional problem with that part.

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There's nothing wrong with doing it that way on a polymer upper. As I stated earlier, the charging handle is significantly flimsier than the rest of the gun. Swapping to a metal handle reduces the flex on the handle, but the recoil spring is weak enough to give prior to any significantly damaging torque being applied to the upper by the handle.

One sided charging has its purposes at certain times. If you don't want to do it, that's your prerogative. For me, the appearance was secondary to the function.

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M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

I don't understand the "torque to one side" bit. The handle comes straight back every time. Personally, this is just another case of much ado about nothing - a problem that exists only in someone's imagination with any factual proof.

You don't comprend the written word very much, do you.

No one said anything about parts failing; it's all personal preference.

The word flimsy has been used multiple times. Plus the following was stated:

The factory handle is flimsy, and non-conducive to one-sided charging. Done too many times, it is possible to break the handle with the sheer force of torque. Swapping with a metal one eliminates that possibility. The rest of the gun is not as thin as the handle, therefore not as fragile.

Not trying to beat a dead horse but if the part is dangerous or prone to failure, then I need to know. I have Googled this issue but see nothing about this part ever failing.
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Jim,

I don't know whether any handles have failed or not. I do know there is quite a bit of torsional flex. That is what those of us who replace the handle want to eliminate. It's really that simple.

I don't like the original latch; it's inconvient to use unless you pull on both sides and that involves changing mu grip. The NDZ latch can be pulled with the hand to the side, as can the PT Latch. Again personal preference.

^ Yes, what Majorlk said. When pulling the original handle back, unless you use both sides, the handle will flex-twist to one side noticeably. IMO, this is cheap (felt like an airsoft piece) and could be an issue depending on how often you charge. Granted, you most likely could go for years and never experience a problem with it. I wasn't willing to deal with it, so I upgraded to metal.

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M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

Thanks for the info. I always pull straight back, using both sides, so I guess that is why I don't see an issue.

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I bought both, latch and handle. Both came in separated bags and a pin too. Reviewing the original handle, i can see that a small spring is present. I dont know the best way to change that spring from the original handle to the new one. That's why i was looking for a step by step guide...

All other comments are for another topic or discussion.


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Curious ...

Which hand do you use to cycle the handle? I use the left hand and don't need to take my right hand out of its shooting position. That's the advantage of the single-side pull. I drop the mag with my right forefinger and the bolt as well. Both without changing my shooting grip.

Pull the spring out of the hole in the original handle and insert it in the corresponding hole in the new one. It's really that simple.

I'm all screwed up. I am right handed but have to shoot lefty because of a stigmatism. I never try to do a magazine change or rack the bolt while still in a shooting position. But after listening to you guys, maybe I need to do so.

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Sorry if this comes off a bit harsh. It's not meant to be inflammatory either. But...

Your question was answered in post #2. If you have all the info that you require, feel free to stop reading the thread. Comments/questions following yours came as a result of your original post, and are answered as such. Perhaps if you did not wish to have a thread that expounded with multiple persons participating, you should have contacted NDZ via e-mail with your question.

In case you missed it though, just remove the roll pin, pull the latch out, pull the spring out. Then insert the spring, insert the latch, insert the roll pin.

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M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

Well, like Jyezahn posted:..... if you pull using only one side the original handle flexes.... so since an aluminum handle doesn't flex where do you think the force is going to go?... into the opposite side of the channel, which to me looks thin enough to crack and Murphys law says if it can happen, it will happen. It's not a question of IF.... it's a question of WHEN.

But as I ALSO stated, the recoil spring (the only source of resistance) is weak enough that you'll be able to charge the rifle before exerting much lateral pressure against the side of the upper receiver. With the original handle, it flexes enough to warrant concern, IMO, that it's integrity might not withstand the resistance of the recoil spring along with the torsional pressures placed upon it. With those factors in mind, I'm fairly certain that it IS a question of IF, not WHEN.

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M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

Or wait for a truly Ambi handle and latch. Pull straight back on either side and call it a day.

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Buy cheap, pay twice.

Left handed hooting with a rifle that's essentially right handed is something of a challenge, especially quick mag changes. It does take considerable practice to do it smoothly.

I eat and write left handed but everything else is right handed.

However, if you think about it, shooting lefty helps in that the bolt & magazine release is now within reach of the trigger finger, where you have to add that long latch that goes thru the trigger guard. Probably need to add an ambidextrous safety lever to get it on the left side too.

My AR is a Stag & I could have gotten a lefty model but stayed with a righty. My eyes must be bad because I've never been distracted by ejected brass. I have yet to shoot my 15-22 with the new brass deflector installed.

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The selector can be swapped in about two minutes. The mag release is not available to the trigger finger of a left handed shooter.

I can do a mag swap, from empty mag to a round in the chamber to a round downrange in under three seconds, two if I am in a hurry - all without changing the position of my right hand - just my trigger finger.

Hi,
whats the size of the roll pin punch required? I'm going tomorrow to get one at a large store.. I only saw a couple today at the near store but they were too big i think... Thanks...

1/16". You can also use a 1/16" drill bit as a punch.

thanks a lot

Job done