|
|
03-21-2013, 12:12 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: AZ
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
tightening flash suppressor
I apologize if there is a thread on this, I searched but could not find it. I replaced the hand guards on my 15-22 and need to put the flash suppressor on. Do I use Loc Tight, or just tighten it as much as I can. Does anyone know the torque spec on this? Thanks in advance..
g
|
03-21-2013, 12:16 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: West By God Virginia
Posts: 598
Likes: 61
Liked 414 Times in 226 Posts
|
|
depending on the FH you will need a new crush washer to time it correctly... if using a A1 type you just need a lockwasher as they dont need timed... also make sure you are using a barrel vise clamp whether it is just wood or the proper clamp to make sure the barrel doesnt spin in the receiver
__________________
SaveLivesKeepCiviliansArmed
Last edited by yugowego; 03-21-2013 at 12:19 PM.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-21-2013, 12:19 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 179
Liked 1,550 Times in 685 Posts
|
|
Loctite shouldn't go on your barrel (in my opinion) brother.
Clamp barrel (with softjaws) in your vise. Use wrench and turn till it is tight. There is no reason to really lean on it, just get it farmer-tight. The barrel goes into the receiver at only 19 foot pounds, so that should tell you a lot.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-21-2013, 12:27 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 179
Liked 1,550 Times in 685 Posts
|
|
The flash-suppressor on a 15-22 isn't the same as one on a 5.56/.223 MSR, in that it doesn't have the "solid" bottom area (that needs to be "timed") so it doesn't make a dust cloud when you're shooting from the prone position. Smith&Wesson probably figures that the muzzle blast from a 22LR isn't going to make a dust cloud, and they would be right.
|
03-21-2013, 01:06 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: AZ
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
Thanks a lot!
|
03-21-2013, 01:10 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 179
Liked 1,550 Times in 685 Posts
|
|
What I meant to write is that the barrel NUT goes onto the receiver at only 19 foot pounds. Just a clarification to my earlier post.
|
03-21-2013, 02:58 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oregon (or a gun)
Posts: 1,691
Likes: 5,371
Liked 886 Times in 431 Posts
|
|
Just use a crush washer for all your FH and brakes. Tighten the A1 style about 1/4 turn past hand tight.
You can use peel washers too, but they are good for only one device per gun.
ALWAYS use the proper barrel vise jaws (or similar) to hold your barrel. NEVER hold the receiver to tighten the barrel nut or FH/Brake.
__________________
Buy cheap, pay twice.
|
03-21-2013, 04:07 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: West By God Virginia
Posts: 598
Likes: 61
Liked 414 Times in 226 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by gm272gs
The flash-suppressor on a 15-22 isn't the same as one on a 5.56/.223 MSR, in that it doesn't have the "solid" bottom area (that needs to be "timed") so it doesn't make a dust cloud when you're shooting from the prone position. Smith&Wesson probably figures that the muzzle blast from a 22LR isn't going to make a dust cloud, and they would be right.
|
yes i know this, that is why i stated "depending" on the FH used ... as for the lockwasher, i only use those on my Retro builds.
__________________
SaveLivesKeepCiviliansArmed
|
03-21-2013, 08:29 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 14,661
Likes: 7,937
Liked 20,623 Times in 5,958 Posts
|
|
I swap muzzle devices around on several .22s. Just hand tighten. If you want you can get one of those wave spring washers like Ruger equips all thier threaded barrel pistols, but it's really no big deal for just a flash hider.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-21-2013, 08:57 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Naugatuck, CT
Posts: 5,819
Likes: 5,480
Liked 4,286 Times in 2,238 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChattanoogaPhil
I swap muzzle devices around on several .22s. Just hand tighten. If you want you can get one of those wave spring washers like Ruger equips all thier threaded barrel pistols, but it's really no big deal for just a flash hider.
|
Those washers can also be found at just about any decent hardware store.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-24-2013, 10:00 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 106
Likes: 5
Liked 31 Times in 22 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by gm272gs
Loctite shouldn't go on your barrel (in my opinion) brother.
Clamp barrel (with softjaws) in your vise. Use wrench and turn till it is tight. There is no reason to really lean on it, just get it farmer-tight. The barrel goes into the receiver at only 19 foot pounds, so that should tell you a lot.
|
Just curious, where did you find the 19 foot pound specification? From the factory, the nut on mine was not much more than finger tight. When I have removed and reinstalled after heavy duty cleanings, I am reinstalling at about 80 inch pounds, and it has been holding fine.
|
03-24-2013, 10:05 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 400
Likes: 493
Liked 171 Times in 104 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by yugowego
depending on the FH you will need a new crush washer to time it correctly... if using a A1 type you just need a lockwasher as they dont need timed... also make sure you are using a barrel vise clamp whether it is just wood or the proper clamp to make sure the barrel doesnt spin in the receiver
|
Timed??? What are you talking about?
You time an engine. I've never heard that term used in regards to screwing on a muzzle brake or a flash suppressor. I'm obviously confused.
It's essentially a nut threaded onto a bolt with a lock washer. It ain't rocket science.
|
03-24-2013, 10:27 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 727
Liked 658 Times in 365 Posts
|
|
It is used when talking about lining things up.
Some flash hiders are compensator as well and have solid prongs on the bottom. But it is only on the bottom if you get it lined up correctly.
Some muzzle devices are also better viewed some ways up, and they would need to be "timed" as well. Some screw on after market handguards need to be adjusted to fit the top rail as well otherwise they won't be properly vertical.
KBK
|
The Following 4 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-24-2013, 10:28 AM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: N.E. Iowa Boondocks USA
Posts: 2,888
Likes: 5,524
Liked 1,599 Times in 993 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsonFlyer
Timed??? What are you talking about?
You time an engine. I've never heard that term used in regards to screwing on a muzzle brake or a flash suppressor. I'm obviously confused.
It's essentially a nut threaded onto a bolt with a lock washer. It ain't rocket science.
|
The flat side (closed hole) of the muzzle brake,flash hider goes down and is horizontal to the ground. That way muzzle blast goes to both sides and up. Closed bottom keeps the blast from pushing the barrel up when fired and less/no debre kick up. The force form the upper hole/slot helps keep the muzzle down (barrel flip) when fired. Both side slots keep the muzzle from going to the left or right when the weapon is fired. It's more pronounced on larger rifles. Timing : "Some" Rocket Science is helpful,it's just on a smaller scale here.
__________________
THIS WE'LL DEFEND ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-24-2013, 12:38 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: West By God Virginia
Posts: 598
Likes: 61
Liked 414 Times in 226 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsonFlyer
Timed??? What are you talking about?
You time an engine. I've never heard that term used in regards to screwing on a muzzle brake or a flash suppressor. I'm obviously confused.
It's essentially a nut threaded onto a bolt with a lock washer. It ain't rocket science.
|
Hmmm... First rifle with a muzzle device?
__________________
SaveLivesKeepCiviliansArmed
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|