I apologize if there is a thread on this, I searched but could not find it. I replaced the hand guards on my 15-22 and need to put the flash suppressor on. Do I use Loc Tight, or just tighten it as much as I can. Does anyone know the torque spec on this? Thanks in advance..
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depending on the FH you will need a new crush washer to time it correctly... if using a A1 type you just need a lockwasher as they dont need timed... also make sure you are using a barrel vise clamp whether it is just wood or the proper clamp to make sure the barrel doesnt spin in the receiver

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Loctite shouldn't go on your barrel (in my opinion) brother.

Clamp barrel (with softjaws) in your vise. Use wrench and turn till it is tight. There is no reason to really lean on it, just get it farmer-tight. The barrel goes into the receiver at only 19 foot pounds, so that should tell you a lot.

The flash-suppressor on a 15-22 isn't the same as one on a 5.56/.223 MSR, in that it doesn't have the "solid" bottom area (that needs to be "timed") so it doesn't make a dust cloud when you're shooting from the prone position. Smith&Wesson probably figures that the muzzle blast from a 22LR isn't going to make a dust cloud, and they would be right.

Thanks a lot!

What I meant to write is that the barrel NUT goes onto the receiver at only 19 foot pounds. Just a clarification to my earlier post.

Just use a crush washer for all your FH and brakes. Tighten the A1 style about 1/4 turn past hand tight.
You can use peel washers too, but they are good for only one device per gun.
ALWAYS use the proper barrel vise jaws (or similar) to hold your barrel. NEVER hold the receiver to tighten the barrel nut or FH/Brake.

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yes i know this, that is why i stated "depending" on the FH used ... as for the lockwasher, i only use those on my Retro builds.

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I swap muzzle devices around on several .22s. Just hand tighten. If you want you can get one of those wave spring washers like Ruger equips all thier threaded barrel pistols, but it's really no big deal for just a flash hider.

Those washers can also be found at just about any decent hardware store.

Just curious, where did you find the 19 foot pound specification? From the factory, the nut on mine was not much more than finger tight. When I have removed and reinstalled after heavy duty cleanings, I am reinstalling at about 80 inch pounds, and it has been holding fine.

Timed??? What are you talking about?

You time an engine. I've never heard that term used in regards to screwing on a muzzle brake or a flash suppressor. I'm obviously confused.

It's essentially a nut threaded onto a bolt with a lock washer. It ain't rocket science.

It is used when talking about lining things up.

Some flash hiders are compensator as well and have solid prongs on the bottom. But it is only on the bottom if you get it lined up correctly.

Some muzzle devices are also better viewed some ways up, and they would need to be "timed" as well. Some screw on after market handguards need to be adjusted to fit the top rail as well otherwise they won't be properly vertical.

KBK

The flat side (closed hole) of the muzzle brake,flash hider goes down and is horizontal to the ground. That way muzzle blast goes to both sides and up. Closed bottom keeps the blast from pushing the barrel up when fired and less/no debre kick up. The force form the upper hole/slot helps keep the muzzle down (barrel flip) when fired. Both side slots keep the muzzle from going to the left or right when the weapon is fired. It's more pronounced on larger rifles. Timing : "Some" Rocket Science is helpful,it's just on a smaller scale here.

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Hmmm... First rifle with a muzzle device?

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