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09-08-2013, 11:28 AM
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FYI New fake flash hider for S&W 15-22
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09-08-2013, 12:36 PM
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Interesting, nice idea!
Last edited by roushstage2; 09-08-2013 at 12:42 PM.
Reason: I now see they aren't for .223
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09-08-2013, 02:28 PM
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I have one on my 15-22 and it looks really nice.
-Ruskie
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09-08-2013, 02:39 PM
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roushstage2, thanks, do you think they will be legal in CA?
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09-08-2013, 02:39 PM
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RuskieShooter, Thanks, do you have any pics or live fore testing?
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09-08-2013, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmj50
roushstage2, thanks, do you think they will be legal in CA?
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Does the manufacture call it a flash hider? My totally uneducated guess is that would be the only possible snag.
If I was selling these in California I would designate them as mini barrel shrouds or something like that.
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09-08-2013, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmj50
roushstage2, thanks, do you think they will be legal in CA?
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They are, and would be. Rimfires are [currently] exempt from AW laws, so it wouldn't do much from a legal standpoint in this state in regards to the M&P 15-22. Now, if you made one for what would be considered an AW (centerfire, semi-automatic rifles capable of accepting a detachable magazine with any "evil" features), you'd be onto something. However, I see the description says the slots are not open (essentially making it a larger thread protector) and the small pictures underneath show it as such. However, when I look at the larger photos about 1/3 of the way down the page, it shows the slots to be open? If the slots are indeed closed and looked like this...:
...it should be an acceptable solution for those wishing to do a "featureless" build on centerfire rifles. It would/should be considered a thread protector. Right now for such builds, you either use a thread protector (making it look like an M&P 15-22 without a threaded barrel), a brake/comp or an un-threaded barrel.
IANAL; that's just my take on it.
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09-08-2013, 07:02 PM
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@ Roushstage2 - The slots on the one for the 15-22 are open. However, it is milled to EXACTLY fit over a non-threaded 15-22 barrel and is held in place with a set screw; it has no internal threads.
BTW, regarding CA legality, roushstage2 is right on; rimfires are currently exempt from AW laws. I currently live in CA and there are no legal issues using this product on a rimfire rifle.
@ fmj50 - I'll try and get some pics posted this evening. I have fired the rifle with it on and it does not affect the accuracy of the rifle; it is purely cosmetic (but does look good though!).
-Ruskie
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09-08-2013, 07:51 PM
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Ruskie, Thank You very much in advance.
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09-08-2013, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuskieShooter
@ Roushstage2 - The slots on the one for the 15-22 are open. However, it is milled to EXACTLY fit over a non-threaded 15-22 barrel and is held in place with a set screw; it has no internal threads.
-Ruskie
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I was talking in regards to using a non-open one on a centerfire rifle here for legal issues.
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09-11-2013, 12:38 AM
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Sorry for the delay, but its been a pretty busy couple of days...
My take is short of getting the barrel threaded, this is the most "natural" looking flash suppressor. It would be nice if it was 5-slot instead of 3-slot and it would also be nice if they painted the inside. The set screw sits flush and so far the unit has not moved. Also, the inside has a ridge that prevents you from pushing it too far back and the location where the set screw "bites" will be milled off if you ever decide to thread the barrel.
-Ruskie
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09-11-2013, 10:04 PM
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Installation video shows using red Loctite. Loctite becomes hard by a chemical reaction with certain metals, usually certain steels and some non-ferrous metals. I don't think there's a reaction to aluminium or to anything treated with black oxide, so I'm guessing that you removed some of the finish from the end of the barrel to get the Loctite and steel to react ? Loctite does make a primer, available in lipstick form, that will start the reaction necessary. Also, if you Loctite this on, you aren't going to be able to check your barrel nut or remove the nut with this in place. Takes 450 degrees F to melt Loctite. Sorry, just asking as I live in New York and would like to have one of these..... Shoo
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09-11-2013, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shooboy
Installation video shows using red Loctite. Loctite becomes hard by a chemical reaction with certain metals, usually certain steels and some non-ferrous metals. I don't think there's a reaction to aluminium or to anything treated with black oxide, so I'm guessing that you removed some of the finish from the end of the barrel to get the Loctite and steel to react ? Loctite does make a primer, available in lipstick form, that will start the reaction necessary. Also, if you Loctite this on, you aren't going to be able to check your barrel nut or remove the nut with this in place. Takes 450 degrees F to melt Loctite. Sorry, just asking as I live in New York and would like to have one of these..... Shoo
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I didn't watch the video, but usually Loctite is used to "glue" the threads on the screw to the threads in the hole to keep the screw from backing out due to vibration; it isn't meant to "glue" the end of the set screw to the barrel or the flash suppressor to the barrel. That said, I did use a file to make a small flat spot on the barrel to give the set screw more bite and prevent rotation.
Also, I'm pretty sure the barrel wrench (sold by Plinker22?) is designed to be large enough to fit over a flash suppressor so that you don't need to remove it when tightening/loosening the barrel nut.
Hope this helps!
-Ruskie
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09-11-2013, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuskieShooter
I didn't watch the video, but usually Loctite is used to "glue" the threads on the screw to the threads in the hole to keep the screw from backing out due to vibration; it isn't meant to "glue" the end of the set screw to the barrel or the flash suppressor to the barrel. That said, I did use a file to make a small flat spot on the barrel to give the set screw more bite and prevent rotation.
Also, I'm pretty sure the barrel wrench (sold by Plinker22?) is designed to be large enough to fit over a flash suppressor so that you don't need to remove it when tightening/loosening the barrel nut.
Hope this helps!
-Ruskie
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You should watch the video before responding to Shoo (who is a very well qualified machinist by the way). He was referencing TST's video where he applies 272 Threadlocker to the OD of the barrel to assist in "gluing" on the fake flash suppressor.
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09-11-2013, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett248Vista
You should watch the video before responding to Shoo (who is a very well qualified machinist by the way). He was referencing TST's video where he applies 272 Threadlocker to the OD of the barrel to assist in "gluing" on the fake flash suppressor.
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I never said he was wrong or that his info was bad. The info I gave was also correct. Threadlocker is just that; threadlocker. If you are looking to bond the two surfaces, you should be using 609 or 641 (retaining compounds) and should be removing the coating on the barrel and priming the aluminum flash suppressor.
That said, people asked what I did and I responded. So far what I did has held up through two range trips with 200-300 rounds per trip.
-Ruskie
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11-01-2013, 06:54 PM
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Blue Loctite is sufficient, 242, and we are now painting the inside.
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11-05-2013, 05:24 PM
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I now have around 1k rounds through mine and it has not slipped/shifted/moved. After installation my Fastfire II was still right on (did not affect POA/POI at all). This is a great product and a very good option to getting the barrel threaded.
-Ruskie
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10-14-2015, 12:07 AM
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We are making them now. The last company did not want to make them any longer, so we took over.
Muzzle Brakes - Tactical .22 Parts and Accessories
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