Just a few modifications I've done (so far)... Is be more than happy to help anyone trying to make the same. All are fairly easy... the Troy magazine release and the Noveske STS Magpul ambi 60 degree safety required some "shaving" to work 100%.

1. Magpul MBUS flip up sights
2. Magpul magazine pulls
3. Magpul B.A.D. Lever
4. Noveske STS Magpul ambi 60 degree safety
5. Magpul MOE stock
6. Magpul MOE pistol grip
7. Magpul rail covers
8. KNS no-slip trigger group pins
9. Troy ambi magazine release
10. CP tactical 4x20 scope
11. CAA(TDI arms) BK-2 picatinny light mount
12. Generic barrel shroud/fake can
13. Ultimate Arms Gear Buffer Tube Mount Single point sling attachment
14. Magpul AFG2 Angled forward Grip













No internal mods just yet.


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Looks good.

Get a smaller light.

I like the look with all 14 mods you did. Not to busy.

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Rick
M&P 15-22, G27 Gen4, G23

How do you like the Magpul XTM's for the rail covers? I've been thinking of picking some up. Can you describe the coating? It is that soft touch plastic (like some cell phone cases)? Rubber coating? Plain ol' hard plastic?

lol... I was going to put a smaller light on... but I actually prefer this light. It's upwards of 200 lumens and it extends out almost to the tip of the barrel. I prefer to illuminate my target... not my weapon.

It's all aluminium and very bright. It resembles the barrel shroud too which I like. Believe me, from experience, if I could mount the light on the tip of the barrel, I would. In darkness, you don't want your light illuminating your weapon for all to see... just like you wouldn't walk around with a light shining on yourself when your goal is concealment.

The XDM's are hard plastic (polymer). I have the flush Ladder Rail Panels on my actual AR, but I think the XDM's feel better when you're gripping the quad rail and the lips they create on either side when they're on make a little area to grab or reservoir for your thumb or fingers to fall into.

There is a slight texture to them... and they can be a bitch to get off once you "snap" them into place.

I could personally care less if someone straps a spot light on their gun, but your logic here is escaping me. Granted, I was not a ground pounder & have never had to clear a hostile building in the dead of night, so I have no experience with such matters. I do keep a small tactical light on my gun, primarily for nighttime predators on the farm.

However, once you turn on your light, how can you consider yourself concealed? You saying, just because your light doesn't illuminate a tiny part of your barrel, that no one can see that huge beam of light emanating from your gun? So if I take a flashlight out on a dark night & turn it on, as long as I don't shine the light on me, no one can tell where I'm standing?

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FIDELITAS ET FORTITUDO

You're correct, just not entirely... Most flashlights project a beam that is not readily visible from side angles (unless you're using IR with night vision... or your enemy is... they you're a spotlight to them). The visibility of the light comes from it's reflection off of what it is hitting. with some tactical lights, there is even a shroud extending out past the front to hide (at least at increased angles) the visibility of the light source. Once the light impacts the area it is being directed at, it then spreads out and illuminates an entirely different area. A light with an adjustable focal beam is good too... a narrow beam can be used in larger areas so half the hostile area can't see a stadium sized oval light passing over everything in sight.

My reasoning comes from CQB mostly. With the obstacles in a building (doorways, holes in walls, etc.) that reflected wide-area beam is not usually seen from angles which are visible from the smaller entry-ways. So walking past a hole in a wall, the idea is, and depending on if you know how to properly address your weapon while doing so, someone peering through that hole or entry-way won't see the beam from the flashlight. However, if you have a light mounted on your optic, it's illuminating from about two inches forward to your muzzle saying "Here I am!".

Actually, the contradictory part is, the brighter your flashlight is, the better... when you enter that doorway or turn that corner, it's an IMMEDIATE burst of light (at that point you're already seen) which should disorient your target enough for you to spot them and get off some well placed rounds before the target can return fire. If your light isn't bright enough, it becomes a target to your opponent when faced toward them. Things you need to be weary of though (and reasons to use filters on your light) are the colors of the rooms you're entering... a nice bright white room will glow like something from Tron in pitch black.

Just remember, and it sounds weird, but the closer your target is, the less of the "beam" they can see. From up on a hill with you in a field... like I said, it would look like a laser beam. All those particles floating around as well as the density of the air itself will define the beam for someone or something looking on from a distance.

It's really all about the advantage... in some instances (especially large open areas and during certain weather conditions... it's a laser beam!), yes, the light stays off. There is no advantage to having your light placed to the rear of your weapon other than to save your finger the trip to turn it on if you don't have a pressure switch.

The lamp is meant to give the caster an advantage on anything that may appear or make itself known... not to put the user in harms way.

Now... if you're just on a farm hunting coyotes, then chances are you want more of a 10,000,000 (in other words, the brighter the better) candle power spot light strapped to the side of your weapon with a tight focal beam to "stun" your target, allowing you to take it down quickly. Surprise is always your friend... once that first round cracks off, the target will vanish (man or animal) unless you render them immobile.

Sorry if I got a little off track there. I'm not saying everyone do this! Animals can see that light also... and they are hyper sensitive to things moving around in the dark other than themselves. If you're creeping through the woods, chances are you'll want your natural night vision or the moon (just watch your shadows) to get you to a target... Then pop them with that high-powered light and literally "light them up".

I'm not clearing many buildings with that tactical scope on though... Good ole' iron sights for that if you know the target building doesn't have illumination sources (electricity, the moon, etc.). RDS sights in pitch black tend to make you focus on the dot and not whats beyond. On some, dimming the dot helps, but RDS systems are better with some ambient light.

Hope that explains my light positioning... in too many words. hahaha.

Looks great!

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Thanks for the feedback... as I said, the Troy Ambi Magazine release does require some slight "shaving" of the back tabs on the release button due to the 15-22 being molded from an actual AR frame... in turn, it's thicker (I guess shaving down the frame to make it match 100% was too expensive and time consuming. After shaving down the tabs, it allows for the magazine lock to retract into the frame to secure the magazine.

As for the Noveske STS Ambi safety, it is a tight fit and needs to be "worked" a bit for a smooth transition... however, it's only a 60 degree travel.

The Magpul B.A.D. lever simply needs to the forward angle on the lever bent straight. I accomplished this by putting the entire lever in a vice and press it until the bend was straight. If you tape it or wrap it in a towel, it won't scuff the finish. (Make sure the vice doesn't have teeth on the clamp. Oh, and I did shave down the back side of the securing plate a little to increase travel of the lever.