I was at my local shop talking about how much I don't like my 9mm, possibly trading it in, and they mentioned that they all had a trigger job that they said makes it much better.

I asked if this was an apex kit, and they said no, it was done by a local smith.

I contacted this gentleman, and he can do both a 'regular' job that reduces pull to 5.5lbs for $70 or a competition job at 3 lbs.

I want the 5.5, this is the same cost as the apex kit and i don't have to do it which is good since i have never done anything like this.

but i don't know what the difference is. I guess the smith actually modifies the current parts? Can anyone comment on the difference, and is one way better or worse? thanks.

After doing one myself, it actually is reversable.

The only part that couldnt be reversed is a polishing they would do
on the surfaces. This is a minor step that they may or may not do.
This isnt something to worry about.

There are 2 components that are changed

The sear and the USB

Both can be replaced, returning it to a "stock" set up

The springs can also be changed out as well.

You really may want to try it yourself. Its not that hard.

Putting in Apex parts will probably take at most 25 mins.

Recontouring the stock parts to match the Apex is also not that hard
(The slide show (burwell) is very east to follow)

I chose the 2nd option and couldnt be happier

So what exactly makes you unhappy, with your M&P ? Trigger only ? If this is only trigger then it can br fixed. My MP40 was my 1st hand gnu, so I didn't have previous experience so I've just learned to live with it I still may do the apex job though

I have the Apex kit. It's the best upgrade for the M&P imho. I am a better shot with it.

Reasons to go with the kit:
1. Proven system
2. Easy install if you have a little bit of mechanical aptitude.
3. You already have a vice, something to protect the slide while in the vice (rubber pads, taped wood shims, etc), a punch set including a brass or aluminum punch, small hammer, hex key set..or..
4. Money for all the above + the kit.

Reason to go with the gunsmith:
1. Proven ability. You have faith in. (doesnt appear to be hard anyway).
2. If any of the reasons in the kit turn you off.
3. cost

As this is my first post, I'm sure it doesn't carry much weight, but here goes just the same. I have an M&P40 with the APEX DCAEK and RAM kits installed. VERY easy to do yourself, and you'll gain a better understanding of how your weapon functions which is invaluable when troubleshooting any malfunction. Can't put a price on knowledge!

The DCAEK kit does pretty much just what a gunsmith would do to modify the sear and striker block. The uptick in my way of thinking is that the APEX parts are machined that way, whereas there is always possibility for error when modifying parts - you can never put material back on. The APEX kit also comes with a few different spring choices to allow you to tailor the feel of your weapon to your personal preference. As mentioned before, you can always go back to stock if you are not happy with the results (not likely).

The end result is night and day! The kit does everything they say it will, and a few things they don't. Next time you are running a dry-fire wall drill, watch your front sight for movement. When the trigger breaks, the sight will inevitably jump left the slightest bit. It is going to happen regardless of your trigger pull - it is the mechanics of the weapon. After the kit is installed, this jump is gone. Less weapon movement always equals more accuracy.

The guys I shoot with have a wide variety of experience with different handguns - M9, PX4, Glock, Ruger, Sig, XDM, Kimber, etc. The action that gets the most comments and appreciation? The M&P. Not bad considering that the pistol plus parts and I'm in for 2/3 the cost of some of the competition.

I did my own trigger job on my M&P and then a 1911. Get 1 piece of 600 grit sand paper and 1 piece of 1500 grit.

Take the gun apart and run the 600 grit over the trigger bar and the sear. Then do it with some 1000. You'll see a nice smooth finish. Put it back together and see if you like it.

If you want you can also file the sear to look like the apex one and then sand it with the 600 and 1000. It smoothed out the trigger on mine and I don't feel the grit on the trigger anymore. IDK the weight and I don't really care because it's smooth.



EDIT: It took me less than an hour to do this. Burwell has a PDF on his website.

I had posted a few times about the fact that I am low left with a 'compliant' 9. When i emailed the smith, he said, let me guess, you are low left.

I know i have good sight picture, grip, etc, i am accurate with 2 sigs I have. But can't shoot well with the s&w the way it is and am very frustrated by it.

I can't think that having the mod made by the smith is going to make me like the gun any less, but hopefully more. If I have to return to stock, I am sure I can get new sear from S&W to replace filed down one.

But hoping a lighter wt pull, and less overtravel like I have on my sig will help out on accuracy. thanks for the input.

For a standard trigger job, smooth, any weight down to 4lbs I charge $40 and I make my own sear out of O1 tool steel.

$70 for this guy to file on your stock MIM parts is a joke.

For you, I would suggest just buying the apex stuff if you think you can do the install.

I'v got a M&P with a factory trigger job and two M&P's with the APEX sear ( and MA/heavy spring similar to the Duty kit.) All run just over 5# which I think is just about right for a handgun with no additional safety.
While I can't say all smithing jobs are equal, I can say that the APEX triggered guns have a crisper pull than the Factory S&W Job. I'd ask to check out the smiths work before committign. That said, a trigger job on an M&P is a MUST IMHO. I've seen better factory triggers on capguns.

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Dave

The APEX kit is a good one. It will improve the trigger feel and the most important thing IMO the reset point over a factory trigger. That said, a trigger job by Accurate Iron or Dan Burwell is as good as it gets.

Just bought a M&P pro in 9mm and was dissapointed in the trigger, was better than my stock 40 but not as good as I had hoped for. +1 on the APEX kit, I went with the competion kit as this is my IDPA gun. I was hoping for less travel in the trigger but it now breaks alot cleaner when it gets there. There where 3 distinct stopping points before the trigger breaks, now it is like it should be. The reset is much better also. I can't say VS a Smiths job as I haven't shot one a smith has worked on. But for the money this was a good route for me. I have also installed a set of Dawson Precision adj rear sights and fiber optic front. I can't say enough about how impressed I am with the product. My reloads 124 gr. lead flat nose where grouping very well but about 4 inches low at 20 yards.

I installed the Apex DCAEK and the RAM. There are you tube videos that show excellent detail. This was my first time doing anything like this and with a few tools, it was easy.

The RAM is an often debated install, at least up here. But I DO feel the trigger reset and actually hear it. Then the secondary benefit and 1 that is not a necessity, unless this is a high use firearm, is the ability to reset the trigger manually, should the trigger spring break.

In my state the trigger pull is 10lbs by regulation. Everyone does a GS or Apex install.

I just bought a new M&P and ran some rounds through it to be sure there were no issues, prior to Apex install. I had the ability to shoot my Apex install vs factory piece. HUGE differenc!!!

I love the M&P and with the Apex kit installs, trigger pull 5.5lbs, grit gone during travel, enhanced reset and an all round awesome gun.

Another big benefit is you get much more familiar with how the mechanicals work. This can help if you have problems during competition or at the range. I also kept the old parts in my range box, so if an unlikely part failure occurs, like a broken spring I can be back up shooting in no time.

I am putting these both Apex kits i my new M&P tomorrow.

Good luck and great shooting!!!

Interesting point here. I know I certainly got more faith in the internal trigger safety when I observed how it worked first hand!

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Dave