I have a M&P 9mm and just purchased a set of front and rear HI VIZ green sights from Midway USA for 52 shipped. I put a front sight on my wifes LCR and can tell you its great. I liked it so much I bought a set for my gun. I did some research looking for a video as I am more visual. cant seem to find one. I did read that the plunger firing pin safety is under the rear sight and to be careful not to let it fly. I also read that the front is best removed from left to right with a punch and slide held in a vise. Is there any videos or help anyone can give me? I have put hammers, safety's, triggers and grip safety's on my 1911 with no problems and other GS work. I don't think this is a big problem. Thanks for any help.

IMHO, the best way is with the $600 sight tool my gunsmith owns.


Dawson changes Glock sights:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4maCQhEIjoA

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Science plus Art

I did mine (M&P 40) with a brass drift, hammer, and a vise.
BOTH sights need to be removed from L-R (when viewed from rear.)
remember to loosen the set screw on the rear first.
I used a pencil line to mark the center of the original site position
The amount of force seems to vary greatly from gun to gun.

I have found that the rear sight will become very easy to move before the Upper striker block spring and cap are visable.
use any flat tool (or your finger) to capture these when rear sight is removed. I recomend you do this in a very open area so that the parts can be recovered if they fly away.

New sights go on from R-L
put spring and cap in place and slide rear sight on as far as you can by hand (far enough to cover cap at least.)

On one gun I had to use two vises, one to hold the slide, and the other to act as a pusher. That was the only gun I had to do that with.

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Gerry

Thanks Gary. I ordered a brass drift punch set. I also found a neat trick for the rear sight. Put the slide in a quart plastic zip lock and put a small hole in it for the punch. If it flys out its all in the bag. I also got a 1/16th allen and removed the set screw to make sure it would loosen up. It came out fine, the rear sight was still tight.

Thanks for the zip-lock idea. I'll use that one next time.

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Gerry

I found some brass drift punches at Northern Tool. I put my slide in a leather glove and clamped it in my vice. Tapped and removed the front sight. I did tape it with masking tape to help not damage the finish. No damage and its out. I had to tap it a bit hard to remove it but its out. the rear sight I tapped out but not past the place where it lets the spring and firing pin safety out. I am in the midst of moving and the sights were shipped to my other home I sold. So I will let this gun sit until I get back with the sights and my truck of stuff. Looks like its not a big job if you have a bit of patience and tools. Can't wait to get this back together.

To preserve flat Disc and spring under rear sight, Brownells sells an M&P rear sight tool for $3.99. It's money well spent. Sights come off the gun using the methods shown above from left to right and install from right to left. It an easy job. Once you have sights installed it is suggested to use a few drops of RED thread lock around the edges of the sight. Let it soak in and then clean up with dry q-tips. Not that difficult. Take your time and be careful.

S&W M&P.40 4.5, Ameriglo Night Sights, Apex DCAEK

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M&P 40, M&P 40C,

just be cautious with loctite on the right side, so it doesn't seep into the striker block.

I attempted to install a set of sights from 10-8 performance on my 45 and ended up visiting the gunsmith. Those factory sights were on very tight and I didn't want to do the damage that I likely was capable of doing. I didn't even realize there was a spring under there. Bottom line, if you only THINK you know what you're doing, its worth $35-65 bucks to take it to a gunsmith. I'll eventually get an M&P sight tool and try to attend an armorer school, but until then, the gunsmith down the street was the best route to go.

I have the MGW M&P sight adjustment tool and just now ordered the dovetail tool from Talon at Brownell's wish I had. I had no problem taking the rear sight off but getting the spring and cap back into the weapon was a problem making a trip to the gunsmith necessary, good thing was I know him well and he fixed it free in about 6 minutes and he showed me the same tool I just ordered from Brownell's it will be the best 3.99 you ever spent and right now you can get the MGW tool from Midway, I had mine on backorder for two months, it will cost $136 after tax and shipping here's the link: Maryland Gun Works Front & Rear Sight Tool S&W M&P

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59,M&P9,40,40C,357,(2)45,G26

I used a 4.95 brass drift punch and it worked great. I put a hi viz on my M&P and one on my Ruger SR9c. I don't see why a 140 dollar tool is needed. I put duct tap on both sides of my slide and then a piece of leather in the vice and put some pressure on it. Tapped out the dove tail sight and then the new one back in. goes from left to right out and to put in right to left. I flattened the side of the drift punch with a file to get more contact with the sight and not a problem. As far as the rear sight on the M&P use a gallon ziplock bag and put a hold in it for the punch and then just put the spring and plate back on when you are ready to install the new sight.

I can easily change both sights without a vice using my 120 dollar tool and 4 dollar in less than 15 minutes and I have several M&P's this is an easy to use tool that will not damage your sights or slide provided you follow the instructions of the tool.

Correctly re-installing the spring and cap to the striker block can be quite a chore especially if you don't have the right tools or experience, good luck with a punch with a $125 set of new sights like Tru Glo TFO's!

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59,M&P9,40,40C,357,(2)45,G26

I would think long and hard before I used red Loc-Tite on anything that might need to be moved at sometime in the future. The only two things I ever used it for on guns was installing grip screw bushings and front sights on 1911s.

If you already have, I'd suggest the use of a candle to apply heat & wax molecules before trying to remove. Just hold the part over the burning candle to apply the heat.

Not to rehash an old thread but I as well just bought a set of front and rear hiviz sights for my m&p m2.0. Did you have to do any filing to the sights to install them or did they go in pretty good out of the package? Or can anyone else comment? I'm going to make a nylon drift out of a block I have but I also have brass as a backup. If I can't remove or install with either of these I'll pay the $75 a local gunsmith quoted me.

Factory sights can be a pain to remove the first time, the same to install new sights.

I've ruined sights just hammering with a punch, and you need to be careful specially with tritium sights they could break.

Since then I acquired a sight pusher it makes everything more easier. Some gun shops will install for free if you buy the sights from them, that's not your case but for future reference.

I wouldn't pay $75 to install a set of sights when a good sight pusher cost around $100 I don't know how many times I've used it to do the sights and trigger jobs

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M&P 9, Shield9.

The hard part is installing the new sight, Ive always had to file them down a bit or they are too tight.

Would either of these two files I have do the trick?

Both 6". Small triangular files.

Here you go.

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Screenshot_2017-09-29-10-23-18.jpg (24.5 KB, 62 views)

Here you go. While the rear sight is off would be the perfect time to polish up the plunger etc...
The screenshot is from a pdf of a complete m&p trigger job. I can email or attach if anyone is interested.

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Screenshot_2017-09-29-10-23-18.jpg (24.5 KB, 34 views)

I PM'd you. I'm thinking I'm going to tackle the job myself. I'm just wondering if I have everything I'd need. I have small and large hammers, digital calipers, those files in question, a big Wilton vice, penetrating oil, etc. and a plethora of other tools (I'm an automotive mechanic but my box is at home).

I emailed the pdf to you. It doesn't take much to get the job done a vise , a punch, sandpaper,file(s) or a dremel, metal polish(fritz).

Putting in sights tonight. I'll let you know what I break

Don't use a file to open up the dovetail in the slide, that's a permanent and potentially costly modification. Instead, use a piece of sandpaper (fine) on a piece of glass to sand the bottom of the sight tail, this will reduce the height of the tail and make the sight looser. Sneak up on it but if you go too far, you can dimple the edges with a center punch (or get a new set of sights, still cheaper than a new slide)

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Minimize the variables

Thank you for the tips. So sand from the bottom? Why have I seen people file in the dovetail on the sight?

Either something is wrong with my gun or I got lucky. The rear sight came out with a piece of wood and one light tap

Back ones arent so bad, the front ones can be brutal.

New2guns. Makes a big difference when you drive them out the rite direction.
Glad it worked out

Installation went great. Used nylon punch to put in new rear, front needed a taped brass punch. Took a small amount of filing. Got it in. Shot it. Front must have had a crack behind the paint... it cracked and the base was left in the gun. Session cut short... I love them though. I was able to get the base out, hoping they can help me.

Because they don't know what they're doing. Think about it, it's very hard to maintain the dovetail angle with a file. When you sand the bottom of the tail, it moves the angled part of the tail away from the angles in the slide. (making it looser) Glad you got them in without a hassle, got lucky this time.

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Minimize the variables