My Crimson Trace Rail Master was ordered from Amazon on Saturday with standard shipping. Amazingly, USPS delivered it today (Tuesday) lol. I've decided to do a 2- or perhaps 3-part text review with a couple of key photos. Afterwards I may use this as a script for a video review.

CMR-201 Part 1 - Unboxing and installation
Inside the shipping carton, the product itself is contained in a smart, black box ~ 5" x 3" x 2" high. The box contains:

1. A foam pouch containing the Laser unit,
2. A small ziploc bag containing 3 "inserts", 2 cleaning swabs, 2 allen wrenches. laser warning labels, and a battery,
3. Instructions on a single 10"x11" sheet of glossy paper folded up mini-pamphlet style.

The Laser Unit itself consists of three pre-assembled pieces (see Crimson Trace CMR-201 for close-up views): the laser and switches, an "insert" that fits into a notch in the rail of your gun, and a pair of clamps that hold the laser and "insert" to the gun rail using 2 long screws. Three additional inserts of progressively longer lengths are also provided. Each insert will move the activation switches slightly further toward the trigger guard from the rail notch in which the laser is secured. The unit comes with the shortest insert installed.

I decided to begin installation of the unit with the shortest "insert" (#1) that was pre-installed.

After following the standard firearm safety practices on my M&P9, one loosens the two long screws opening the clamps. Then rest one clamp on top of the rail and align the tab on the "insert" with a rail notch. Then rotate the assembly so that the insert drops fully into that notch and the second clamp is above the rail. Tighten the screws a bit, slide the assembly forward back as much as the "insert" and rail notch allow, then tighten securely. The unit is installed.

I've never attached anything to a rail before, so it took me 2 whole minutes to figure that out.

As shown in this photo, using "insert" #1 left a 3/32" gap between the activation switches and the trigger guard. I decided to see how the activation switches worked before going any further.



Installing the battery comes next: remove battery from protective plastic/cardboard bubble, remove battery cover from Laser (it takes some force to do that, which is probably a good thing), and insert battery negative pole toward rail. Well, the battery doesn't drop in far enough - it must be pushed in to allow the cover to be re-installed. Pushing the battery in works; it stays down while you easily slide the battery case cover back on. Good

Now to activate the Laser. Tap the switch. Nothing. Tap again. Nothing. PUSH the switch - bingo. OK. you don't just tap this switch, at least not right out of the box lol. You must push it firmly. Now, let's see what the laser looks like on an 11"x17" target at 7 yards.





The instructions say the laser is factory sighted at 50', and that most people sight their laser for between 20' and 50' adding the following comment: "However, because of the offset between the laser sight and the bore, the actual change in point-of-impact at these distances is very small."

A quick comparison of my laser to the iron sights showed the laser's windage nearly dead on. However, the Laser was south of the 7-ring when the iron sights are where I believe the 10 to be

At this point I decided to reinstall the Laser to see how other "inserts" changed the position of the activation triggers. In the process I could also see if re-installation(s) changed sighting and/or corrected the elevation sighting error.

I tried all of the "inserts", and checked sighting after each installation. The good news? Insert #4 closed that 3/32" gap to the trigger guard very nicely. And I did not notice a change in where the laser hit the target vs the iron sights. IOW, any change that might have occurred was not large enough to be noticed without actually firing groups. The "bad" news? Elevation remains low.

[It was at this point that I noticed a table in the instructions showing that "inserts" #1 and $4 fit the S&W M&P9c, and "insert" #1 fit the M&P9. RTFM lol. #4 works better on the 9fs IMHO).



On to adjusting the laser sight . . .

IMO, the sight adjustment instructions are insufficient. Which screw controls elevation and windage is not shown. To be pickier, the only advice given is "A little adjustment goes a long way. Rarely is more than half a turn required to make your needed adjustments." While this is perhaps standard, there is no reason they couldn't add (eg,) a 1/4 turn in elevation will often yield approximately X" change at Y' ". To be ultra-picky, there is no mention that "clockwise" is judged as you look at the adjustment screw. And what do "up" and "down" mean in this context? While some may judge these criticisms ridiculous, it takes no more space than was actually used to create instructions that would improve customer success and satisfaction.

So, I judged the bottom screw to be "elevation". Using one of the two supplied allen wrenches, I decided to try a 1/4 counter-clockwise turn, guessing this should bring the laser "up".Let's see what happens: 7-ring . . . another 1/4 turn . . . border 8/9. A 135 degree turn. Bullseye, or close enough for handheld government work.

Overall, I'm actually very pleased with what I've found so far - don't let the instruction critique put you off, no one gets it right. As for the quality of the laser image at 7 yards, I'll leave that to you to judge. Due to mild cataracts, my description of the laser image isn't the same as my wife.s, nor would it match yours.

Well, that's all for now. On Friday I'll let you know what happened at the range.

Nice review on the RailMaster CMR-201. I just received my
yesterday for my M&P 9C and it only took a few minutes to get
it mounted. Every thing looks and works as it should. Range
test to come shortly, but I'm please with the sight so far.

Holster will have to wait until there is better availability to fit
the weapon with the CMR-201. In the meantime a cheapo
Uncle Mikes IWB that I had works perfectly with the CMR-201.

That's a nice, clean looking little unit. Thanks for the review, looking forward to the range report.

Do you know of a good holster for this exact set up? I would prefer a IWB

Not IWB, but I use this Fobus holster.

Regulator: Do you have any trouble reaching the switch with your index finger, without re-positioning your hand? I have a 9c and would like to get a CT Railmaster, but I want to be able to turn it on without a lot of fussing, as in a hurry, when you need it. It looks like you have to overreach to turn it on.

__________________
NRA R.S.O. & Life Member

Sorry for the long delay in answering your last question. I have fairly large hands and reasonably long fingers and I can reach the
on/off switch on the Railmaster w/o a problem. For small or medium size hands it would be difficult to do so w/o an assist from your off hand.

I bought a Railmaster for my 45c because Crimson Trace doesn't have a laser grip for it. It works just fine, but the complaints I have is that it uses a smaller battery and the laser isn't as bright as the laser grip on my 9c. Hopefully they will come out with a laser grip for the 45c soon.

I bought a White Hat IWB holster for it that works with the Railmaster. It's very similar to the Crossbreed holster I use on my 9c.

Before you zero in any laser using the small Allen Wrench, put a small piece of brightly colored tape on it just in case you drop it. Makes it a lot easier to find if it you lose it.

Concealed Carry Hybrid IWB Holsters from White Hat - MaxTuck

Twoboxer: Just out of curiosity, why did you choose the rail mounted version over the grip version?

Thanks for review.

"However, because of the offset between the laser sight and the bore, the actual change in point-of-impact at these distances is very small."

That doesn't seem to make sense to me. A straight line out of the bore and another starting some distance below that are only going to intersect at one point. I've found with my rail-mounted laser (LaserMax), that the distance you chose to line up the iron sights with the laser dot is pretty important.

Just noticed this thread is active again . . . sorry!

1) I have average hands and have no difficulty using my trigger finger to activate the laser.

2) Why the rail mounted instead of the grip version? Many reasons:

- The grip on the M&P9 is one of the reasons I bought the pistol, and I did not want to change the ergonomics.
- I prefer the laser sight centered under the bore, not positioned on one side where it would have to angle (at a specific distance) for POA to match POI.
- There are times when a less than perfect grip can block the side-mounted laser.
- The rail mounted laser is interchangeable to any firearm with a rail.

3) Re: the offset/sighting statement by Crimson Trace . . . I can't be sure now lol, but I think the reason I quoted what they said was I didn't believe it myself

FWIW, I still like the unit a lot. Indoors its superb. Outdoors in daylight the visibility is spotty. depending on lighting conditions and the target itself. I think its an excellent accessory for any home defense or indoor range pistol. For me its a godsend at the range because my eyesight is no longer compatable with the dots and posts of iron sights.

Thanks for the good review and what could be the best holster?
IWB type cross breed doesn't have option for the like you set up
I'm thinking of crimson trace cmr-205 (laser and light combo)
Set up any idea? And the White hat holster is good as Cross breed?

Thank you