Today, I was able to shoot my new Sheild 40

I am estatic!

This is a great little pistol, and will be my new CCW.

The 45C is jealous, but is going to be the nightstand gun

So.... 140 or so rounds down range, almost all in the extended mag, and ZERO malfunctions to report..... No dreaded mag drops, no FTF or FTE

Earlier this week, I did do a quick Burwell type trigger job.
(less than 30 min job) and the trigger breaks at 5 lbs

The trigger also smoothed out from dry firing.

Good trigger out of the box, but great trigger after the DIY trigger job.

I am very pleased with this pistol!

Good to hear a happy Shield 40 owner. Still seeing posts of 40's with October cartridge fire dates, that have the mag drop problem. I can't believe S&W hasn't got this problem totally corrected.

My Shield 40 is a great gun, I have one that was dropping the mags, but now with the dimpled mags, no more problems. I put in an Apex sear and blocker, not the kit. I used the stock Shield trigger and sear spring, and the softer Apex blocker spring. My pull dropped to 4.25 pounds. Very reliable and accurate gun, and even better with the modified trigger.

Bob

How tough was it to remove the rear site?

I did everything but that on the trigger job i did.

I want to install some night sights at some point

Dean1818

Removing the rear sight is by far the hardest part of working on the M&P's. The sight is machine pressed in, at the factory. You have to first loosen the set screw. You will not damage the plastic spring cap, on the blocker spring under the sight, unless you use excessively high heat on the sight. The set screws are red loctited in at the factory and this means they usually need to be heated to get them to loosen. If you turn the slide upside down, as you heat the screw, the heat rises and this will allow less heat needed to loosen the set screw. Use a propane torch and set the point of the flame on the set screw for 3-4 seconds. It should loosen. If not apply a little more heat.

Before you remove the sight, note the location of the sight, left to right. This is for accuracy and you want to reinstall it to that same spot. You need to clamp the slide in a vice. Protect the slide from scratching. I would use a taped up punch to drive the sight off. Drive it off from the left side to the right. If you make sure you check the tape after each hit, and get no metal to metal contact, you should not cause any damage to the sight. Don't pound on the thin base of the sight. Place the punch on the thicker part above the lower lip. It does take some hard hits to get the sight to start to move. It also goes back on just as hard. I tried oiling the sight to get it back on. This did not make it any easier to get it back on. After having to take it off a few times, it did get easier to remove and replace. S&W does sell replacement stock sights, just in case you slip or? Make sure you don't slip and mark the slide.

I have a slide disassembly video that shows the sight removal, starting at 4 minutes and 30 seconds time frame:

M&P Shield Slide Disassembly - YouTube

Bob