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Old 02-02-2017, 02:39 PM
tsduke tsduke is offline
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Default Rounded off rear hex sight screw

I have a shield that i could not get the rear sight screw to budge. DAMN RED LOCKTITE!! It is now rounded so bad no allen or standard tool is going to get it removed.

I do not care about the sight at all. I just want it off without damaging the slide. I've thought about slowing drilling away at it, but thought I'd ask around before trying.

Any suggestions on a method?
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Old 02-02-2017, 02:50 PM
arhayes arhayes is offline
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Default Rounded off rear hex sight screw

I initially though screw extractor, but that's going to take an awfully small one. I once had a similar issue on my motorcycle and was able to cut a small slot in the head using a Dremel tool, then use a standard screwdriver to remove it.


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Old 02-02-2017, 02:54 PM
tsduke tsduke is offline
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Yeah, the fact that it's so small does add a challenge. Maybe I could use my dremel to notch a slot in it.
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Old 02-02-2017, 03:00 PM
Shield9mm Shield9mm is offline
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I would try gluing the allen to the screw or maybe weld it in place, maybe a bigger allen since it is already rounded . just an idea.

Last edited by Shield9mm; 02-02-2017 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 02-02-2017, 03:27 PM
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For red locktite you also need to heat up the part to help break it loose.

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Old 02-02-2017, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsduke View Post
I have a shield that i could not get the rear sight screw to budge. DAMN RED LOCKTITE!! It is now rounded so bad no allen or standard tool is going to get it removed.

I do not care about the sight at all. I just want it off without damaging the slide. I've thought about slowing drilling away at it, but thought I'd ask around before trying.

Any suggestions on a method?
Ditto on the heat to loosen the Loctite, but one thing that has worked for me in the past (same screw stripped) was to use a torx driver that was a bit larger than the stripped out hole and used a hammer to tap it into place. Tap the torx driver into the screw and then hit the screw with a bit of heat (I use a small butane torch). I got the screw out. The torx bit has a number of sharp teeth that will bite into the hole. Good luck.
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:33 PM
cahotshoe cahotshoe is offline
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Heat is a must, but if the torx does not work, often a left handed drill bit can be used and hopefully it'll grab before the bit hits the slide. Smaller than the OD of the thread, but bigger than the hex socket.
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:34 PM
tsduke tsduke is offline
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I should add that my hex socket it total gone at this point.
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:37 PM
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"When disassembling red threadlocker the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F.  Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, it’s likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose."

How to Remove Red Threadlocker - Henkel Adhesive Technologies Blog

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Old 02-02-2017, 07:03 PM
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As this screw is a 1/16th allen head...I don't see how a person with a dremel tool no matter how skilled would be able to slot this screw. Mint is recessed below the surface.

Fortunately, I was briefed on this problem before I attempted to move MY rear sight. Used my soldering iron....even so, it was not an easy task.

Randy
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:09 PM
tsduke tsduke is offline
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I read and research **** to death before doing things so I knew it could be an issue so I also heated mine prior to trying to loosen it. Still ended up in this mess. Probably more of an issue with a poor tolerance wrench.

I've done 2 other shields where the screw came right out. This one must have been extra loaded with locktite. Per S&W it's only supposed to be a very small dab.

With a dremel I wold have to damage the sight which I'm fine with. Although it would still be a reach that it would work.
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:11 AM
tsduke tsduke is offline
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The sight is off with zero damage to slide. Used a cutting wheel very patiently until I could tap out the metal at the bottom. Replacement sight is on and now just waiting for a new screw to arrive.

On to the next screw up, I mean project.


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Old 02-03-2017, 10:28 AM
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I'll add that I did try drilling first. No drill bit I tried would get a hole started. That damn screw is hard. One really has to wonder why a screw is used at all. The tolerances on the sights are pretty tight.
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:31 PM
stevet1 stevet1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsduke View Post
I have a shield that i could not get the rear sight screw to budge. DAMN RED LOCKTITE!! It is now rounded so bad no allen or standard tool is going to get it removed.

I do not care about the sight at all. I just want it off without damaging the slide. I've thought about slowing drilling away at it, but thought I'd ask around before trying.

Any suggestions on a method?
Put a drop of penetrating oil on the screw and let it sit for an hour or more.
Definitely try a hot soldering iron to apply focused heat to the screw. Using a torch you're applying heat to other places you don't want it. Try a torx that fits snugly in the hole and give it a sharp tap with a hammer to make sure its in tight. Hopefully that will get the little screw out before reverting to cutting a slot which could also work. In any case be careful and we're all hoping you'll get it out with too much trouble.
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Old 02-03-2017, 03:52 PM
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Hi Forum;

I do not own a Shield but I really wonder why S & W if they are the culprit is using Loctite Red on ANY gun screws!

The main manufacturing plant for this stuff is Henkel located right across the street from my work where I am sitting at the moment.

My company switched years ago to Loctite BLUE (No. 242)which is a very high quality small thread locker, but is formulated to be removable with standard hand tools. Loctite RED (No. 271) is labeled and identified commercially as a "permanent" thread locker requiring heat to 500 F before you can begin to think about removal.

My company manufactures high speed, high pressure power generation equipment and we must lock not only screws, and bolts, but also the outer races of large (8 inch O.D.) rolling element bearings into cast steel housings. To lock in bearing races we USED to use Loctite Cylindrical Parts Locker which was a different shade of red, but still red. That stuff cannot be released without a healthy dose of C4 in my opinion. The blue works swell and our equipment sometimes experiences very high vibrations during transient condition runs.

We had to switch to blue because the two different reds got mixed up in the shop and when that equipment came back in for normal overhaul, we had to "gas-axe" it apart whereas before normal rosebuds on oxy/acet would release the 271.

I have joked with the Henkel plant manager before that if ever two of his big tankers ever wreck in the street and rupture allowing the two compounds to join and into Loctite Red we won't be able to ever get out and go home!

Anyway..........does anyone know what firm is applying the Loctite Red to the Shield screws? Is it S & W and if so, has the factory been complained to? They must know about these troubles if new Owners are "up in arms so to speak".
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Old 02-05-2017, 11:49 AM
jim46ok jim46ok is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shield9mm View Post
I would try gluing the allen to the screw or maybe weld it in place, maybe a bigger allen since it is already rounded . just an idea.
Uhh..."weld"..? It takes a 1/16" allen. Not too big..
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