The good news is after finally scoring a Shield for my wife 3 weeks ago, my LGS called me the other day saying he had another if I was interested. We now have his and hers 9mm Shields which will be our primary carry gun's once we feel they are 100%.

The bad news came when I took the newest Shield to the range today for the first time. After 100 rounds the roll pin just under the take down lever backed out a good 1/8". I tapped it back in with a punch but I wasn't too happy about having to do it.

I think the problem is that it's full of oil so I'll see what it does over the next few range visits before I call S&W. I don't want to send it in.

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That is a common occurence with polymer framed pistols, some do it and some don't. My Bodyguard 380 always has a been backing out after a range session. You may want to try another roll pin, S&W will send you a couple free of charge upon request.

Out of 4 M&P's in the family, this is the first to have this problem. Never had a roll pin back out on my AR either. My other guns have solid pins.


Cool, I'll certainly give them a call if it happens again.

I had that problem with my full size M&P45 but it was the rear roll pin. I just tapped it back when it worked its way out a little.

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G21C,Shield.40,LCP

I have 4 polymer frame handguns, a Shield, a BG 380 and 2 Glocks, never had that happen (yet)....I have had those roll pins get rusty but that's another issue LOL!

Hope it works out for you.

Knock the roll pin out. Clean it along with the frame holes. Tap it back in. Apply a drop of BLUE Loctite to one end, drive it back in far enough to put a drop on the other end. Drive it in flush and wipe off any excess Loctite. It should now stay in, but because it is blue Loctite, it can be driven out, should you ever need to do that. Works most of the time.

Bob

Does it matter which side I drive the roll pin in and out from? What would the loctite be bonding the pin too, the polymer frame?

If I understand correctly, that is not a roll pin, it is a "Headed pin, trigger" if it is, the pin must be removed from the ejector side as the left side has a head. My FS 40 did it after 100 rounds, called S&W and was told it is "ok" it could do that. The TDL will keep it from ever coming out. Also was told to put a few hundred more rounds thru it. If still an issue, they would be glad to look at it. I just pushed mine back flush with a small pocket crew driver. I also would consider the blue locktite if I felt uncomfortabe. The S&W tech said it was supposed to be peened and maybe it slipped by or was not done enough. In any event, I am not worried at this time about mine.

I have had good success on roll pins that walk out by expanding the roll pin on one end. If the pin walks out again I would use a small sharp pointed pick. Put the pick in the hole of the roll pin that protrudes and tap to expand the end a " LITTLE " little being the key word here. The pin may go back in while tapping the pick into the hole but if it doesn't you can just tap it in with a flat pin punch. This should provide a snugger fit for the roll pin to keep it from walking out again. I would try this before I sent it in to S&W.

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44 Garrett Defender Ammo 4 me.

I stand corrected. Just seen pic. It is a roll pin. My issue was pin under TDL. Shield is a little different set up. But was not the same issue I have.

I called S&W today. They are sending out a couple replacement roll pins. My plan is to remove the locking block, spray it and a new roll pin with brake cleaner to remove any oil. I can’t decide if I should use a drop of blue Loctite in the hole of the locking block or wait and see if it backs out again. I don’t want to enlarge the hole by driving pins in and out multiple times.

JMO. I love brake cleaner, but I read somewhere that it is not recommended on S&W pistols. Unfortunately, I can't verify where I read it. I'm a newbie so I'm always scanning for data/info so I can be effective with my M&P 40.

I know it's not good for polymer. That's why I'm removing the locking block to clean the hole out.

Some plastics aren't friendly to brake cleaner, while some are. Also the newer ozone friendly brake cleaner which is flammable, is more harsh than the older brake cleaner which is not flammable. Either way brake cleaner is just fine on metal. I use the older non flammable brake cleaner to clean the slides on all my pistols. GARY

does anyone know to read s&w serial numbers?

If you're looking to find your Build date of your Shield, you won't find it via the serial number. To find your build date, you need either the original box, and/or your fired cartridge envelope.

The date on fired cartridge envelope is within a week of it rolling off the line.
If you have the box, on the Model Number/SKU sticker, below the SKU number, there will be either a 4 Digit number, or a 6 digit number.
If it's a 4 Digit number the 1st number is the last digit of the year (for example: 2012) and the last 3 numbers are the number of Days into that Year. So if the 4 digits were '2030', that would mean Jan 30, 2012.
If it's a 6 Digit number, it's a simple MMDDYY translation.

If you don't have the box, or envelope, call S&W Customer service, give them your serial number and they will tell you when it was born.