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03-25-2013, 07:39 PM
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Frog Lube and a M&P
I keep hearing about Frog Lube. Also the M&P manual shows the 7 drop lube points.
I haven't even seen what Frog Lube looks like. Is it thick or runny?
What/how do you use Frog Lube on your M&P?
The big one is the drop of oil that is to be put on the sear area.
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03-25-2013, 08:58 PM
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If you go the Frog Lube route forget about what S&W tells you about cleaning and oiling. FL has its own particular way of doing it
That being said, go FL...your firearms will thank you. Lots of videos on YouTube on how to apply
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03-25-2013, 09:24 PM
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You Tube is your friend! Many good vids to look at for FL. I have it for my M&P 40.
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03-25-2013, 09:35 PM
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Go to the FL website and watch the how to video they have up.....that will answer your questions. Basically, you don't worry about what the manual says. With FL, you are heating and "treating" all of the metal parts with the paste, then using the thick liquid version to hit high wear areas if you see the need. Once you use FL, you will not go back to the conventional clean/lube process. It works amazingly well IMO.
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03-25-2013, 09:38 PM
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Would it be wise to let a brand new pistol have some "break-in" with lubing it the traditional way, then switch to FL after a few hundred rounds?
Can't believe I just asked that... I'm one that says breaking in a new engine with synthetic oil is harmful is merely an old wive's tale...
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03-25-2013, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S&WForty
Would it be wise to let a brand new pistol have some "break-in" with lubing it the traditional way, then switch to FL after a few hundred rounds?
Can't believe I just asked that... I'm one that says breaking in a new engine with synthetic oil is harmful is merely an old wive's tale...
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It's not an engine.
I use Frog Lube on all my weapons. Never looked back. No worries about harming the polymer. Food Grade Rated. No Chemical Smells.
Use it per the FL instructions. I add a small drop to the 7 lube points now and then to just "make sure".
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03-25-2013, 09:49 PM
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I don't see any advantage to that. To start using FL, you need to completely strip all of the petroleum base product off of it with isopropyl alcohol anyway. I used FL on my FS MP9, MP9c and Nano from day 1. Couldn't be any happier. It is SO much quicker and easier to clean after a range session when using FL....all you really gotta do is wipe down well with a microfiber cloth. Read up on their website and you tube reviews...you won't be disappointed.
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03-25-2013, 09:56 PM
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Plus FL is made in the USA!!!
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03-25-2013, 10:05 PM
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Personally all I think it is is resizing lube made for lead bullets.
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03-25-2013, 10:09 PM
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Can anyone give me a link of a video for cleaning for a brand new firearm? I will be getting my M&P 9 Full and my M&P Shield in a few days and want to have some pre-knowledge of what I am cleaning (meaning from the factory grease or whatever it is..)
thanks..
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03-25-2013, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADMAN88
Can anyone give me a link of a video for cleaning for a brand new firearm? I will be getting my M&P 9 Full and my M&P Shield in a few days and want to have some pre-knowledge of what I am cleaning (meaning from the factory grease or whatever it is..)
thanks..
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If you go to the Froglube website there is a specific section for videos.....one of them is a guy going through the initial treatment process on a semi auto. You basically field strip, clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol all the metal parts.....then heat the slide, barrel and other metal components with a hair dryer or heat gun. Once warm to the touch, apply the FL paste with the supplied brush.....you can be generous. Let the parts sit an hour or so, the wipe off the excess left with the supplied microfiber towel. I personally then add a bit of the liquid version FL to the main friction points, then you are done. Next time you are at the range, you will notice when the firearm heats up, the FL seeps out of the metal and thoroughly lubricates everything. Keep in mind, it actually REPELS dust and dirt, so it won't gum up your weapon by attracting residue like regular lubes.
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03-25-2013, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin69
Plus FL is made in the USA!!!
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They also support Disabled Vets.
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03-25-2013, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFrost20
heat the slide, barrel and other metal components with a hair dryer or heat gun. Once warm to the touch, apply the FL paste with the supplied brush.....you can be generous. Let the parts sit an hour or so, the wipe off the excess left with the supplied microfiber towel.
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Being they also say doing it in the warm sun... I also keep heat to it durring the time period (60-90 minutes) with my blow dryer to help "season" the metal.
I still can't believe how easy it is to clean weapons once it's been applied and I've been using it for a few years.
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03-26-2013, 12:47 AM
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I love FL!!
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03-26-2013, 11:16 AM
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I bought a 4 oz bottle of FL CLP yesterday. Didn't get the kit with the FL paste. Is the paste for the initial treatment and the liquid for maintenance?
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03-26-2013, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_mp40c
I keep hearing about Frog Lube. Also the M&P manual shows the 7 drop lube points.
I haven't even seen what Frog Lube looks like. Is it thick or runny?
What/how do you use Frog Lube on your M&P?
The big one is the drop of oil that is to be put on the sear area.
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I used Frog Lube it was ok I found a new product Rand CLP and it blows frog lube away
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03-27-2013, 09:33 PM
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I only use the paste. If you go to YouTube and search "clean M&P", you will see loads of videos. Probably even some with Frog Lube. Good way to kill an entire day, if you are so inclined.
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04-03-2013, 03:54 PM
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7 Lube Points
I believe! I ordered some Froglube paste and liquid and will begin treatment of my 9C when the FL arrives. But I have yet to find consensus on if it should be the best practice to also use liquid FL consistently on the 7 lube points. I would welcome all feedback on this question. My gut is to continue to do this 7 point lube. What say you?
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04-03-2013, 07:20 PM
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There will never be a consensus among gun owners. Especially when it comes to lubricants.
Having said that, I like Frog Lube. I use it exclusively on my handguns. I have used nothing but Frog Lube on my M&P 45 and have had no issues with it. I don't put any on the sear.
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04-03-2013, 07:25 PM
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Been using FL extensively for 2 years. I bought a cheap WM large oval crockpot to treat my parts. I heat it up on low, add my degreased parts, polymer, metal, etc, and then slather on FL paste. I let it cook on low for an hour or so. Then remove the parts, let them cool, and wipe off the excess. That's the initial 1-2 cleanings, then I just use the liquid as a normal CLP, with a little paste on any aluminum frame rails.
You can also use a hair dryer or the sun to warm the gun parts, but the cp makes it a little easier.
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04-03-2013, 08:03 PM
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I just bought and used Froglube...all I can say is, I am very pleased with the results. I used it on an old shotgun and it came out looking brand new, very impressive in my opinion. With that said I followed the info on YouTube and heated the parts with a blow dryer and applied the paste while hot, waited an hour an wiped off the excess.
I also treated my competition shotgun (an MKA 1919) and will hopefully be shooting on Thursday night, I will post the results. I hope it delivers as advertised, because I really like the idea of only having to deal with one product for, clean, lube and protect. In the past, I had used a whole array of stuff cleaning and maintaining my guns.
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04-03-2013, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COL V
I believe! I ordered some Froglube paste and liquid and will begin treatment of my 9C when the FL arrives. But I have yet to find consensus on if it should be the best practice to also use liquid FL consistently on the 7 lube points. I would welcome all feedback on this question. My gut is to continue to do this 7 point lube. What say you?
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I do do that too. It's hard to put just a little drop. I found that the enital coating does the trick just fine with out hitting the 7 points (like you would do with regular gun oil). If you don't want to do it though,it still works great. Frog Lube comes to life from the heat generated shooting the handgun (or any weapon). If your handgun gets to looking "drippy/oozy"" after extened shooting,I wipe mine down and continue on. Once you shoot and try it,it's easy to make your own call about whether or not to do it.
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04-03-2013, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpsMgr
I bought a 4 oz bottle of FL CLP yesterday. Didn't get the kit with the FL paste. Is the paste for the initial treatment and the liquid for maintenance?
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Doesn't seem to be. I tried both ways on different handguns and both ways do work.
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04-03-2013, 09:48 PM
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Yes get it. No diff between paste and liquid except form. Liquid a little better in barrel and hard to reach areas. Either will work if u just buy one.
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04-03-2013, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveMD
Yes get it. No diff between paste and liquid except form. Liquid a little better in barrel and hard to reach areas. Either will work if u just buy one.
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Should a new user get the FL solvent or just use isopropyl alcohol?
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04-04-2013, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S&WForty
Should a new user get the FL solvent or just use isopropyl alcohol?
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The alcohol is only used to clean off the old grease/oil. It's not necessary to get every drop of old oil off because the Frog Lube will eat it up anyway. Still, it's better to start with a clean gun.
Frog Lube is a Cleaner, Lubricant and Protectant (CLP). No other product is necessary.
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04-04-2013, 10:59 AM
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Well me being the knob that I am, I heated a bunch of guns up and stripped them with GunScrubber (nasty) and then treated them with the liquid FL.
After taking the lab out pheasant hunting last weekend I switched the old 870 to FL, but I cleaned it with Denatured Alcohol and then used the paste FL on it.
I like the paste better for that initial treatment. The steel really looks great.
I'll reheat all my other guns as they need cleaning and apply the paste.
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04-04-2013, 01:58 PM
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Okay, dumb question of the day from someone new to firearms. Can I clean my polymer handgun with dishwashing soap, air dry the components with compressed air, finish cleaning with alcohol, and then heat and apply the FL?
Please be gentle,
Bob.
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04-04-2013, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_W
Okay, dumb question of the day from someone new to firearms. Can I clean my polymer handgun with dishwashing soap, air dry the components with compressed air, finish cleaning with alcohol, and then heat and apply the FL?
Please be gentle,
Bob.
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Not a dumb question.
Yes, you can.
However, if you clean with dish soap, a good grease cutter, there will be no need to follow with alcohol. Just go straight to heat and Frog Lube.
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04-04-2013, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COL V
But I have yet to find consensus on if it should be the best practice to also use liquid FL consistently on the 7 lube points. I would welcome all feedback on this question. My gut is to continue to do this 7 point lube. What say you?
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I only use the paste....don't even own the liquid. After cleaning everything, I put a very small amount of paste on my finger and rub a *tiny* bit on the wear parts. I'm talking thin thin thin film, on the barrel and the rail sections. Pretty much wherever it is a little "silvery".
Tracy
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04-04-2013, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S&WForty
Should a new user get the FL solvent or just use isopropyl alcohol?
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I spoke to FL when I bought mine and they said any degreaser will work. They recommended Simple Green cleaner. Has worked well for me.
The other day my RO asked what the hell I was doing sniffing my gun. Yes, it was safety checked, empty, and pointing down range. It's weird to smell mint on a gun but the cleanup is FAST. I just put a little liquid FL on a boresnake, passed it through the barrel, and wiped down the gun. Done!
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04-04-2013, 08:14 PM
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FL is in all my firearms now including M&P9.
Found my 22 had improved function with FL.
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04-04-2013, 09:40 PM
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Your gun will smell like it pulled a hamstring for a week or more, but people swear by the stuff. I've seen test rip it up, but I recently switched to find out how I like it. Currently have it on my 357c, but can't find any ammo to test it, or the gun.
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04-04-2013, 10:39 PM
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Lol genetic, yeah you dont have to get their solvent, and like has been said the stuff will eat any grease u dont get.
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04-05-2013, 01:24 AM
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I guess I need to get some.
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04-05-2013, 06:32 AM
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Thanks for the feedback Maddmax and Zotzer. I will go ahead and treat the 7 lube points at every cleaning, even with full treatment of my MP9C… can’t hurt. Glad that I purchased both the FL paste and liquid versions; can see the utility of both.
Good to read all the posts about initial degreasing. I opted not to get the FL solvent, as I figured FL is a CLP product and would be redundant. I have gun cleaning solvent, but would much rather use Simple Green or Dawn as degreaser to ensure I’m removing all petrochemicals & stuff. Will rinse and use air compressor to blow out my pistol (as Robert W commented).
Last edited by COL V; 04-05-2013 at 06:35 AM.
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04-05-2013, 07:33 AM
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I started using FL about 2 month ago and treated all my handguns with it (made the heat treatment 3 times just in case) All I can say is Wow. This thing works on Polymer, Aluminum and Stainless Steel frames. More than 1000 rounds thru all my handguns and they look and feel great. After a range trip you only have to wipe with a cloth, put a bit on the rails and other friction parts and the gun is good to go.
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04-05-2013, 09:08 AM
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After reading all the great reports, I had to place an order for some FL!
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04-05-2013, 10:16 AM
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I just switched this week, I hope to head to the range next week. I have done my Sig230, M&P Shield 9mm, Glock 30, Berretta 92....long guns next.
Basically everything in this thread is exactly how I understand it. You tube is awesome for how to vids. Once going with FL do not clean or use anything else as the FL will eat normal petroleum products away.
If you think about how it works it makes perfect sense.
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04-05-2013, 11:19 AM
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I've really enjoyed reading thru this thread.. I will have three new firearms shortly (M&P 9mm FS, M&P 9mm Shield, and a Beretta PX4 Storm .40 FS) and plan on doing all three with the Simple Green cleaning and then the FrogLube paste method with heat. Since I am new to firearms, I know one important step is cleaning the factory grease out of them, from what others have said, Simple Green works well, is compressed air needed or just a good wipe down with paper towels and rags okay? I would think that the heating with hairdryer process will dry up any additional leftover Simple Green..
Also, seeing as I will be doing three, will it be better to get the 8oz kits versus the 4oz kits?
Thanks for the replies..
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04-05-2013, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADMAN88
I've really enjoyed reading thru this thread.. I will have three new firearms shortly (M&P 9mm FS, M&P 9mm Shield, and a Beretta PX4 Storm .40 FS) and plan on doing all three with the Simple Green cleaning and then the FrogLube paste method with heat. Since I am new to firearms, I know one important step is cleaning the factory grease out of them, from what others have said, Simple Green works well, is compressed air needed or just a good wipe down with paper towels and rags okay? I would think that the heating with hairdryer process will dry up any additional leftover Simple Green..
Also, seeing as I will be doing three, will it be better to get the 8oz kits versus the 4oz kits?
Thanks for the replies..
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I'd get the 8oz but it'll last a long time. Just wipe down after Simple Green. The heat will dry off the rest.
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04-23-2013, 04:10 PM
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My FrogLube came in and I cleaned my guns with it. It does have a winterfresh smell that does go away. The guns look great and everything slides nicely. I haven't shot with them yet but I'm sure it'll go well.
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04-23-2013, 09:32 PM
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I have used Frog Lube exclusively on my recently purchased M&P 40 VTAC. With over 500 trouble-free rounds through it, I now swear by Frog Lube. I purchased a kit with the wax and the liquid; both forms have their benefits. I believe the wax will last longer when brushing it on for the initial "seasoning" of the weapon; the liquid works well for the bore and the trigger mechanism and the sear area. I also use the liquid to drop on the seven areas identified in the owners manual. The side benefit is the great smell and the ability to clean weapons indoors without the need to ventilate the fumes from typical gun cleaning products.
For two excellent videos on the use of Frog Lube for the initial seasoning as well as the subsequent routine cleanings, search for the Crucible Arms channel on You Tube.
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04-24-2013, 12:10 AM
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Are there any truly long term tests proving the lubrication performance?
That is the only concern holding me back. All I have seen online regarding lubrication is anecdotal.
My #1 reason to switch is to get away from the vapors of traditional products, but I'll stick with that before giving up proven petroleum lubrication.
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04-24-2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S&WForty
Are there any truly long term tests proving the lubrication performance?
That is the only concern holding me back. All I have seen online regarding lubrication is anecdotal.
My #1 reason to switch is to get away from the vapors of traditional products, but I'll stick with that before giving up proven petroleum lubrication.
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OK, so how "long term" does it need to be? There's plenty of evidence that isn't just anecdotal.
I've used Frog Lube exclusively on my M&P .45 since new. I now have 1,789 rounds through it. Is that enough?
My Ed Brown 1911 now has 6,030 rounds through it. I've been using Frog Lube on it for the last 2K or so rounds. Is that long enough? Further, you can read about my inadvertent torture test on the 1911 here: A 1911 Won't work if dirty - 1911Forum The gun had been lubricated with Frog Lube prior to that experience. Is that anti-anecdotal enough?
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04-24-2013, 11:43 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Western,Pa
Posts: 32
Likes: 5
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
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Frog Lube and a M&P
I use it on all my semi auto guns,and as advertized clean up is much easier now.
Did a class two weeks ago 600 rounds,no issues with my M&P 9mm.
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04-24-2013, 11:55 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 386
Likes: 137
Liked 128 Times in 71 Posts
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I just got some not too long ago. Used a heat gun I use at work. So much better than having my room smell like hoppes for weeks
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04-24-2013, 03:20 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
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In addition to using it on my personal weapons, my buddies who are Scout Snipers who use it on their rifles as well.
Last edited by s&wchad; 04-25-2013 at 10:05 AM.
Reason: clean up
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04-24-2013, 07:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 647
Likes: 4
Liked 344 Times in 184 Posts
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I haven't even used the paste, I bought their wipes that have it in them.
I use the their oil on the 7 points, though getting down into the sear could use a longer tip on the bottle.
I bought a couple of the 1 oz bottles for to make a small range kit then refill them with the larger when they get low.
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04-24-2013, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 909
Likes: 88
Liked 130 Times in 97 Posts
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Seal 1 CLP plus. Anyone try this and frog lube? What one is better. I only used the Seal 1 and I found it to be great slickest lube I used so far. great for actions, slide rails anything you want to glide. I found it to make a real difference. They say it treats the steel and when heated it goes right into the steel.. I have the gel, easier to work with.. I did one heat test on it.. I used stainless steel lightly coated it with Seal 1 and put it on a wood stove that leveled off at 500degs. at that temp it turned the steel black and was not cleanable.. I'm not saying that's bad but I would not use it on a weapon that could run hot enough to cook of a round in the chamber like a AR or at least not in the barrel or chamber.. This is strictly my opinion on it with a very redneck test.. If I get some frog lube I try the same test for the heck of it.. So who has tried both? What's you opinion? George
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