I did send my shield back today to fix the many problems I have with it. I only shot 75 rounds threw it and several problems happened. lets see if I can it back in a good time frame. I did call s2w and talked to them for about an hour. they told me more about the problems with the gun so they will fix them too

I'm interested to know the list of problems they told you.

Would you share the list?

they told me that they have a problem with the trigger, which my did. they also asked me if my shield shot low and to the left. which my did. the only problem that I had was the recoil spring boke and bent the guide rod. they also told me about that. they told me the problems before I could tell them . soooo what does that tell me? plus when I mentioned metal shaving the customer rep said yup it was probably in the gun body were you found them right? and I said yes just got me thinking

Wow.....keep us posted on the fix and return time

I`m kind of whistling in the graveyard on this but I had returned my Shield 40 3 times for the problem of "light primer strikes".The first 2 times they replaced the striker and the 3rd time they replaced the slide and barrel. Just got it back yesterday morning...to the indoor range in Richmond this afternoon. Shot 135 or so rounds of various ammo and it did just fine. The new slide is actually some hundredths larger externally as it`s hard to go in my old holster.I feel(at this moment) like the problem is taken care of but I will shoot it a little more to be sure. Funny how a failure to fire will make you burn up a lot of ammo to make sure it shoots.S&W paid the freight every time and this time I received it back in 16 days. The first 2 times it was 18 days.

Good luck and good shooting, John

sure will I will keep you posted

Thanks for sharing their list

Sounds like they should do a product recall.

My new Shields have heavy triggers... I don't have a trigger gauge, I guess I'll buy one, but I'm guessing these bad boys are over 10 pounds.

My first Shield has a nice trigger. These new ones... Wow.

.

__________________
Kirk / Spock 2020

yes my trigger was 10.6lbs plus it had 3 rough spots in it

My third gen has a trigger about that heavy. This was one of the main selling points of the M&P semi auto line, that the trigger felt more like a single action. I guess if I buy one it will be an old one.

Mike,

What was the build date on yours? I'm thinking of making a purchase of one soon but maybe I'll wait.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

MARCH OF THIS YEAR I MEANT TO SAY MAY SORRY

MAY OF THIS YEAR SORRY

Factory trigger pull is about 6.5LBS.


C4

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S&W M&P Armorer
S&W LE Distr.

Don't be shy, no need to be vague about the "problem" with the trigger. OK, I'll tell them for you. The zombie quality control people on the manufacturing line allowed the use of a dull drill bit to drill the hole for the striker safety block. On my Shield, it was causing the striker block to sometimes hang up in the unsafe position. It definitely created a gritty trigger pull and was severe enough to add 5 pounds of weight to the specified 6.5 pound trigger pull.

According to the S&W customer rep, the protocol for a user to test the function of the striker safety block is to first remove the pressure exerted on it by the striker. You should remember that point as you watch this video by fellow forum poster Robkarrob:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_r-J4zAJHo

If you remove the striker and the back plate from the slide, reassemble the slide on the frame, then look through the back of the slide with a flashlight, you can verify the movement of the striker safety block while you pull and release the trigger.

The S&W gunsmith did a nice job fixing that problem. Unfortunately I no longer trust any fully-cocked striker-fire gun. I now trust only half-cocked striker-fire guns based on the Glock design (Glock, PPS, XDS) or striker-fire guns with a decocker (P99 and its variants).

Don't kid yourself about those half cocked designs. I have a Glock, and the little bit the striker moves back to drop the striker, does not make it any safer, than a fully cocked striker. The striker blocker keeps the guns safe. Even in the "so called half cocked" strikers, the striker is back far enough to cause the primer to ignite, should the striker somehow bypass the sear (gun gets dropped hard, etc.).

The only way to be totally safe would to use a full double action gun, where the striker/hammer is only cocked as the trigger is pulled. I don't know of any full double action striker fired guns. This would defeat the purpose of the striker. Then there are the DA/SA guns, where you have to get used to two different types of trigger pulls. Or a 1911 style with the hammer down, but then the hammer would have to be manually pulled back, before the gun could be fired. Last resort to a safe action is a revolver.

I trust my blocker, as I have checked its function, with tape over the primer of a fired casing. I then tripped the sear with a small pointer through the back of the slide cover. No penetration to the tape, so it blocked the striker.

Bob

Thanks Bob, it was good to read your opinion.

I wonder is S&W put out a bad batch of shields?

My SN is DXX03, and it's trigger has broken in quite nicely, is not gritty, and has been great in all respects. Not trying to rub it in...just wondering if more of these problems are happening with newer pistols..

Let us know how it goes when you get it back.

My striker block channel is pretty gritty. If I push the striker block once, I can easily press the striker past it. But, when the striker is pulled rearward you can hear the block engage. Unused to be skittish about it.

But now I am not.

I did the test with tape over a snap cap in the chamber, removed the slide, pulled the striker back and released it 10 times. Striker block did not fail. I was gonna get in there and smooth out the block channel. But, it doesn't really bother me. Now if the block failed my test... That would be a different story. But all is good. Love this gun.