Somehow, a new M&P 9L Pro Series CORE showed up in my hands last night. Might have had something to do with this "Buy Now" button I pushed the day before on the GB website.

Now I'm on double-probation. Threatening to take my AMEX away.

So anyway, I go to my local indoor range, and fire a 100 through it.

Based on these pics, does anyone think its worth having the sights nudged right? The large group was aimed at the top center of the target. I'm getting into USPSA, IDPA and Steel.

(I tried to loosen the hex, but broke my wrench. Need to see the GS to break it.) I'm new to semi-autos. My first was in May this year, a SW1911PC Bobtail. I've shot maybe 700 rnds total on either gun. Ammo is scarce.

Do a search for "low left" on the forum here. 99.999% its not the sights.

It's needs to checked off a bench with a rest or a sandbag. If you can't shoot tight groups, have it checked by someone you know is an accurate shooter. I've never seen and M&P from the factory that wasn't sighted for 10 yards, dead on.

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NRA R.S.O. & Life Member

Low Left is the most common complaint from those coming from other striker pistols (Glocks). It is most likely you and not the gun. "Low Left" is probably the most frequent topic from new members here.

You might have to modify your grip or experiment with the different sizes of palm swells. I was searching for a good video I saw earlier in the week but I can't find it. I'm not even sure it was on YouTube. It was deja vu because a long time ago when I was having trouble like you are I was shown the "proper" way of gripping a semi-auto & it worked. This video was about using the same or similar method. If I find it I'll post it. I don't even remember who was the one who had it on.

I have a friend with an M&P 40 & he has HUGE hands. It turned out that he shot the most accurate & consistent with the small palm swell. I have small to average hands & I get the best results on my M&P with the medium. I'm the most comfortable with that one & he said it felt awkward to him using the small but the proof was in his score so that's what he's sticking with.

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Former USN, Retired US Army

Loc-Tite Red is holding the rear sight. It takes heat to break free.
ie. a heat gun or a soldering iron.

Use the Blue when you re-attach, with the bolt it will hold.

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-Ric
Keep Calm and Carry

Since you have the CORE model just do what I did. Put one of the listed red dots on it! It is now deadly accurate!

With those groups, you'll ace IDPA every time. (that is assuming you can do the same grouping in competition). I used to practice in the classical target method, point and shoot trying to get the smallest group, now I've incorporated the draw and moving the point of aim during the string, I'm using an IDPA target and the aim is to get all the shots into the -0 areas. (haven't accomplished that yet, every time I get close I figure it's time to speed up)

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Minimize the variables

Here's one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4Xb...e_gdata_player

Not the one but that'll do, Joe. Thanks. Hands are in essentially the same position. When the support hand opens it should be pointing down at about a 45 degree angle & his was.

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Former USN, Retired US Army

Thanks everyone for the comments. I'm going out in the a.m. (Sat) to practice some steel for Sunday's match.

About the YouTube video. Don't want to sound dim, but the sight of his support hand thumb riding on the slide scares me. I'm a software developer, and need all my digits in working order.

Dave

Nothing should be touching the slide, thats a great way to induce a failure, either of the pistol or the skin... Thumbs should point forward, but not touching the frame.

Scott

I had the same problem with my first CORE 9L. From the local gun shop, cleaned and to the range. Very good and consistent groups, but straight left. As I backed farther from the target the grouping went farther left; it ended up about 6 inches left at 25 yards. I am not tooting my own horn but I am confident with my ability to know that the left-side patterning was not shooter-induced. I tried taking out the set screw and drifting the rear post just as the M&P manual and even S&W LEO rep said, but the rear sight wouldn't even budge. I ran to the gun shop, the owner/manager happened to be in whom I know fairly well and long story short, he took my old one and traded me for a new one. Cleaned it again, back on the range and the rounds were stacking center mass as they should. Thus, I would believe that it might be shooting left/low left if your solid and feel good about your shooting. As far as that sight goes, good luck; it's a tough one to move. Unless you are experienced with it, it might not hurt to have a gunsmith check it out or look at sight pushers, IMO. Good Luck!

I ran through 200 rds today at our local range. Hitting steel pretty consistently. Did a couple of shots from a full rest on a 2" spot at 30 ft. Seems to be pretty close, in-spite of my bad eyesight.

Guess I need to work on my standing technique some more.