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Smith & Wesson M&P Pistols All Variants of the Smith & Wesson M&P Auto Pistols


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Old 09-18-2013, 12:37 PM
Doolin Doolin is offline
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Default M&P mushy trigger

Love my M&P .45 lightly used manufactured in 2011, geat feel except for the trigge. Has anyone felt the same, and if so, what aftermarket cure would you recommend? Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:58 PM
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Get the Apex kit
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:03 AM
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I've had 3 M&P .45s. A full size bought shortly after they came out, a compact and the one I own now, a mid size. All had crummy triggers and received help from Apex. I put the duty kit in my mid size and have been very pleased with it. This is how the gun should have come from the factory.
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:19 PM
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My 9c's trigger wasn't all that bad and had improved over about 600 rounds. I got the Apex mod and the trigger is great. I went with the heavier duty trigger mod (about 5lb pull, but still a bit lighter than the standard 9c of about 6.5 lb). No more grit and some improvement in reset and break.

My 9c was one of the later ones (built in May, 2013). I'm told the triggers in the later builds where an improvement. I'm not one to sell (never) guns and have only traded two handguns in my lifetime. I'm in my early 60s and don't plan to ever get rid of the 9c. The additional bucks weren't a big deal when I think of how long I plan to keep the pistol. The pistol is as good as I think it can get for the what I want it to be.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:29 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
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If you want a "good" trigger on a pistol as that term is traditionally understood, the M&P is the wrong place to look. Go get a 1911 or another high quality true single action, such as the Model 52, 952 or a SIG 210.

M&Ps and Glocks, and similar types do not have good triggers in that sense and there is NOTHING that can be done to make them good in the traditional sense of what is understood to be a good trigger.

On the other hand, it isn't that type of pistol. It is designed to have a long-ish take-up and a heavy feeling let-off in order to help avoid negligent discharge in a defense scenario.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:10 PM
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Simple. Get a hammer fired gun, & stay away from striker fired guns. GARY
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:43 PM
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Having a number of good 1911 pistols starting with a Les Baer I understand the idea that you can't get a good trigger in a striker fired pistol. HOWEVER, Using the Apex metal trigger kit will completely change how your M&P will feel. My .45 M&P went from virtually impossible to hit with to being one over my favorite match guns. They never will have the same trigger break characteristics as a 1911 but become every bit as workable at speed as the single action auto. Stopping the over travel problem is key & the Apex trigger does a great job of that as well as providing an excellent trigger take up & break. A discernible reset is only important to dry snapping. At speed with recoil there is no time to feel for it. Go for the full trigger. You won't regret it.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:07 PM
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I have an M&P 40 full size that saw police service & is about 3 - 4 years old with a well worn trigger & no modifications. I find it totally adequate. Now I also have an M&P 40 C manufactured in July of this year. That trigger out of the box is as good or better as the FS & improving with every shot. Smith & Wesson must have listened to their customers' complaints about the original trigger starting with the Shield & then going on to the FS & compacts. .

A word of warning if you get an Apex kit or any aftermarket trigger improvement. Learn to install & uninstall it yourself. Some people who have sent their M&P in for warranty repair found that S&W removed the Apex & replaced it with a factory trigger assembly & charged them for parts & labor & not returning the Apex parts. Always get the gun into factory original condition before shipping it. There some YouTube videos on removing the factory trigger group & polishing certain components that make quite an improvement. I watched a few of them & the chore seems simple & straightforward. My guns are good enough that I don't feel the need to do that. I think S&W will do that for you at your cost in their Performance Center. It's not considered a warranty repair.
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