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Smith & Wesson M&P Pistols All Variants of the Smith & Wesson M&P Auto Pistols


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  #1  
Old 11-02-2014, 09:38 AM
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Default Lost Shield Sear Pin - Help?

I disassembled my Shield 9 to do some of the Burwell's mods (smooth and polish sear, trigger bar, etc.) and lost the sear pin. *&^%$* Can't find the damned thing anywhere.

So, where can I get one? I've found several S&W Sear Pins online (Midway) but none that say they fit the Shield.

If you can provide a part # that may help too.

OR, can anyone advise a different model pin with same diameter but length can be trimmed?

Also, any tricks/tips to re-inserting the Sear Spring and Plunger? Can't get it back in flush.

Any help greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-02-2014, 09:51 AM
JVHooligan JVHooligan is offline
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Get out the vacuum and put a set of your significant other's panty hose on the end and start vacuuming. Members more knowledgeable than me can provide you with the other information you seek.

John
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Old 11-02-2014, 10:21 AM
Florida J Frame Florida J Frame is offline
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You can also go over the area with a magnet and sometimes a bright flashlight will help.

Last edited by Florida J Frame; 11-02-2014 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 11-02-2014, 11:24 AM
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I'm pretty sure that the M&P9 sear pivot pin is the same diameter as they use the same sear as the Shield, but it does not have the button on one end that the Shield pin has. The M&P9 pin is just a straight pin.
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2014, 11:37 AM
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Thanks guys. We did a 5th (or maybe it was the eighth, LOL) grid search and found the damned thing. I swear I'd checked that spot 3 times before but.... Geez. Anyway, it's all re-assembled.

I improved the trigger some, I think it's a touch lighter (don't have a guage). I was very conservative in filing the sear. Polished everything.

I didn't do the whole Burwell job (striker block, etc.) as I do not want to mess with removing sights because the LGS caught hell recently removing and installing my new XS Big Dot sights. I don't have the pushers or other tools for that.

Will see how it does with the next range trip.
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Old 11-02-2014, 12:48 PM
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Glad you found it. If you ever get the chance, do a striker block polish, and do the radiusing of the block if you are able. Big improvement, IMO.
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:13 AM
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Glad you found it! When I win the lottery and build the perfect workshop, it will have no dark corners and a smooth floor that runs downhill from all sides to the middle, where I will have a small sump to collect all lost parts and pieces. There is a takedown lever retaining spring somewhere in my garage that STILL hasn't turned up.
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  #8  
Old 11-03-2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S&W Rover View Post
Glad you found it! When I win the lottery and build the perfect workshop, it will have no dark corners and a smooth floor that runs downhill from all sides to the middle, where I will have a small sump to collect all lost parts and pieces. There is a takedown lever retaining spring somewhere in my garage that STILL hasn't turned up.
Me too.
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Old 11-03-2014, 04:50 PM
MSG Glenn MSG Glenn is offline
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I'm overjoyed that you found it but probably not as much as you are, LOL. That brings to mind the little screw that held the battery in my watch. Changing batteries & darn if I didn't drop it on my workbench. I found it. Of course it was years after the watch was no longer useable & had been tossed. It was probably 4 yards from where I was working. Either it rolled off the bench & I kicked it or the cat decided it was a cool toy. From that time on I use a white box to place anything with small parts that I'm disassembling. AND low power magnifying reading glasses.
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  #10  
Old 11-03-2014, 06:07 PM
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I knew I should've used a parts catcher/bin but figured the towel I was working on would suffice. NOT! LOL Learned my lesson for sure.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:57 PM
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Glad you found it. For future referance you can always check here:
McMaster-Carr
Also, when in need of some hardened steel rod, a cheap set of drill bits will usually do the trick in a pinch. Use one size larger than you need, put the bit in the drill chuck backwards and spin it against some fine sandpaper until you get a nice tight fit. You can then cut the desired length from the shank of the drill bit using a dremel cutting wheel.
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