Hoping you guys might be able to help. Was just getting ready to field strip and clean a brand new Shield(no safety model)and ran into a problem. It appears that a roll pin is in the way. I cannot fully rotate the takedown lever as it seems to be hitting said roll pin. The roll pin in question is the one furthest forward on the gun...the one that the takedown lever should cover when fully rotated. Can I just tap the pin in order to give the takedown lever some room to move? If I do this, should I do it with the slide locked back or closed? Or do I just need to contact S&W? Any help is greatly appreciated as this will be my son's 21st birthday present come June 21st. Thanks.

If the pin is slightly out, then gently tap it back in. You need to have the slide locked back to rotate the lever.

If it walks out again, call S&W for a replacement.

Should be at least flush. If it were mine I would support off side with not marring material and seat pin with proper size punch. I just checked mine and that pin is seated just a little short of flush, but it does not interfere with takedown. Can you take a pic of it? This is simple stuff S&W should be made aware of.

This is a very cordial and newbie friendly site, but these posts might change that. Stand by for major flaming. Now to the serious response. That pin protrudes for a good reason. It mates with that small semi-circular relief cut in the takedown lever to stop it at 6:00 o'clock. Without the protrusion the lever would over-rotate the cylinder that moves the recoil spring onto the barrrel for dis-assembly. I hope you haven't found this out the hard way. If so, get ready for major scorn from S&W customer service.

Mine is completely smooth, no semi-circular relief cut in it.

Just checked my Shield. The pin is perfectly flush on both sides.

My take down lever is smooth and when in 6 o'clock position totally covers said roll pin. Further travel past 6 o'clock is prevented by raised edge of frame 2 mm forward of pin. Are you looking at a Shield ggibson?

Went to look since you asked. That pin on my Shield 9 is flush with the frame. NO protrusion. And the takedown lever stops at what has seemed to be an appropriate place since I got it.

My gut feel? Gently tap it to flush. But to feel like you're not breaking it, call CS and ask.

It's flush on mine. No issue.

Apologies to all. My snide comments assumed Shields and M&P's have same takedown lever. Not so, and the frame stop of lever rotation is different. Didn't have a Shield in hand to make observations, perhaps a good reason to get one.

WHAT ? ..............

I had a roll pin work it's way out on my M&P .22fs. Called support, they said it was okay to tap back in, but if works its way back out I'll need to send it in. Tapped it back in, 200 rounds later, it was coming back out, so I sent it for repair. Over 500 rounds since and no issue. I say tap it back in and if it comes out again, then worry about it.

Shield, Shield 2.0 no problem. But my Plus came with the pin protruding way too much. just support underneath with non marring material like he said and hammer it down with a punch.

Attached Images

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On my new shield, unfired so far, the lock spins and falls out. I put it back in and turn it to 6:00 and it is ok to lock back.



Quick question: Why would anyone worry about marring the surface of this thing?

@Dave Haynes you might look at the wire spring that retains the Take Down Lever.. The Lever shouldn't Just fall out, It is retained by this wire spring..
Have a look at this thread
Shield Plus: Can't Remove the Slide

Here's another thread about the roll pin on the Shields coming out, Mine came loose in the opposite direction, Looks like the fix is a drop of Loctite & tapping it back in flush..

M&P m2.0 9mm Locking Block Pin Drift

Good Luck with those Shields
Mine is holding up GR8

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