I just got my new Bodyguard 380 yesterday. Got it out to clean before heading to shoot when I noticed the hammer seems off center (closer to right side) as I trigger pull. Does not hit edge of slide rear clearing, but close. Is this normal? Is it something to contact S and W with? In the pics you can see (sights lined up) as I pull the trigger how the hammer nearly hits the right side. Thoughts?

Mine is exactly like that. It seems to have had no impact on the gun. In spite of looking kinda cockeyed, it does not contact the slide or any other part.

I've learned to appreciate guns for what they do, not how they look. I learned that after seeing myself in a full length mirror. I will never complain again.

Shoot it, and see how it works.

Mine is like that, too---albeit maybe a couple hairs less to the right. I haven't had any problems so far. I would not worry about it.

Mine is like that as well and I've put 650 trouble free rounds of FMJ & HP down range. I never noticed until your post so I suppose it's normal.

__________________
Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

From S&W customer service.
This is normal as the hole for the hammer pivot is oversized to prevent any binding. It will sit off center but will function fine.

Time to go shoot. Maybe my OCD need for symmetry got the best of me.

I'm not even going to look at mine. It works fine and this will only bother me. I hope I can forget about this by the time I shoot it again.

Just shoot it!

In modern machine tolerances for guns like this a CH either way is acceptable.

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Forum consigliere

BUT!!!......

As many of you may be aware, I have been posting about a long-term saga about my BG with 4 trips back to S&W for FTFire. They replaced it with a second one which has even worse FTFire.

Trying to get a handle on how the whole mechanism works, and what might be the cause, I spent an hour or so tonight field stripping my gun, and really examining the function of the parts. I looked again at my hammer, which I had previously noticed (thanks to this thread) was off-center the same way. I saw it is not only off-center, it is actually rubbing on the side and top corner of the slide channel, with the obvious wear mark to prove it.

I will try to post some pictures.

Could this be the cause of mine and many others FTFire issue? I would love to test the theory by machining a little extra clearance in there, either on the slide or the hammer, after getting S&W's blessing and promise to replace any ruined parts. (Good luck with that.)

Is it possible this is the problem with the somewhat common light strike issues with this gun? It makes perfect sense that if the hammer is rubbing along its travel that it would be slowed enough to not strike hard enough.

This is exciting!

David

David - Anything is possible and should be considered. Why would S&W give you their blessing to you machining a part of a new gun they manufacture? Their question to you will be, "if you are still having problems with the new replacement pistol, why aren't you returning the gun to us?" I know you have had 4 trips back to S&W and now a replacement pistol, but, if you like the pistol that much, let S&W make it right! There are no Lemon Laws when it comes to handguns, but that doesn't mean you have to be searching for the solution to your BG's problems either!

Rickgus-

I was pretty much kidding and fantasizing about S&W recruiting me to be part of their design team, and getting their blessing to do any work on this pistol.

I know it can seem nutty that I am obsessed about getting this gun working right, but as you know, this has been a puzzle to me for a long time. When I saw that the hammer was getting hung up, it seemed like an obvious thing to consider.

I have been working with a great guy on a Ruger forum, of all places, who really knows this gun, and guns in general. He has been walking through basically every component of the pistol, one step at a time. It has been interesting to learn the details of how this gun works.

I know it seems the smart solution is to keep sending it back to Smith. But that's getting old for several reasons. First, the Fed Ex place is at the opposite side of the county so I lose an hour and a half just driving there and back. Then I am without it for a couple weeks, and find I don't carry when I should because my second gun is so big, comparatively. Then I have to arrange to be home to sign for it when it returns. Then I have to arrange range time and spend $50-100 on ammo to test it.

It seems like S&W, as cooperative as they are, isn't really doing anything to diagnose what is wrong with these guns. They are just making their best guess, replacing a part or two, putting a few rounds through it, and sending it back.

Thanks, as always, for your ideas and support.

David

David - I hear your frustrations. Check out a thread on this forum, My Bodyguard Experience. There is a post #15 by Buckshot Shorty talking about his experience of his Bodyguard and light primer strikes, $25 fix. Might want to check that out! You could always reach out to him to see what he purchased to make his BG work!

I put in the Galloway more powerful hammer spring, and their stronger, longer firing pin, but the problem was no better, and maybe worse, so I put the factory parts back in.

David

Back to the original topic.

Here are some pictures of the hammer. You can see the scuff marks where it's getting hung up on the slide channel. One of the pictures shows the other side of the hammer, which is untouched.









I think anyone that has had chronic light strikes with this gun should examine their hammer to see if it is rubbing the same way.

David

I just checked my BG and the hammer is dead center. No wear marks on either side. I have never had a problem with it. Fires every time and locks back on the last shot. That just doesn't look right to be off center like that.

I wasn't going to look at mine either, but I had to get it out to see if I had a MIM barrel or forged (another thread). My BG does appear that the hammer favors the right side, but not touching. The little that I will be firing this at the range, as long as it continues to fire, I'm not going to worry about it!

Take a small file to the side of the hammer. (or slide if you don't want to mar up the hammer and reduce its weight.. )

Mine also favors the right side and does rub slightly but not enough to cause any issues. Ill just let it break in that way. lol.

Why don't you schedule a pick-up at your house from fed ex and save the drive? I know that used to be an option.

And I hear you on the ammo cost to verify reliability. I keep going back and forth on which gun to get, a 15 ounce j frame 38 that I already have tons of ammo for, plus reload that caliber, or a 12 ounce BG 380. The gun feels like a dream to carry, but I don't want to spend the money on the more expensive ammo just to verify reliability, I'll never worry about reliability in a revolver.

Being a S&W Forum with most post being about S&W products it would be nice if S&W would assign one of there upper level managers and maybe a CS person to read the post on this site. Don

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USN Retired/VN VET
M&P X5

I couldn't agree more, add an R&D person and they might get an ear full!

go post in the S&W section of AR15.com. s&w folks sometimes show up in that forum. i've gotten enquires from them before in response to some posts made there.

People notice the darnedest things. My BG380's hammer is a hair more right than left if you're lining it up via the slide on top. However, it does not rub the slide that I can tell and has no indication of rubbing marks. I didn't even notice until I stared at it after reading this thread.

IF you look at the frame/grip of the gun, you'll probably see a very small seam running down the middle. This is perfectly in line with my hammer. I believe the tolerance on this part is enough to allow small variances in alignment gun to gun. If it's rubbing though, I'd consider polishing the hammer in that area.

My hammer is straight, but it is also gray in color.

Just found this thread. Got a sw bguard today 4-1-17 my hammer is rubbing enough to be gritty. Im going to dremmel polish the hammer on the side just a hair.

Another thing I noticed and hope someone knows the answer to this one, after racking the slide with no magazine inserted, my next trigger pull was nothing, no hammer action at all, just a light spring resistance all the way back ... once ... try again, and it actuates the hammer normally.

Rack again with no mag, same thing, nothing on the first trigger pull... nothing, I release the trigger, next pull is nornal.

I just found this on youtube

Next, I installed a loaded mag, racked a round, felt for resistance in the trigger, and this time it was normal. I dropped the mag, ejected the round, and now, subsequent racks of the slide with no mag are acting normally.

I dont understand that, anyone have that happen? I'm gojng to take it to the range tomorrow. These things surprise me quality wise for s&w.