At various times I have considered purchasing an M&P9 as a CCW gun. However, the trigger always kills it for me. The break is simply too harsh, for lack of a better term. I get the sensation that I'm bearing down on the trigger and when it finally breaks, the overtravel slams the trigger back and pulls me off target.

In a perfect world, I'd like a CCW gun to have a trigger similar to a good revolver. I don't really care about how much pre-travel there is as long as it's reasonable, I just want the pull weight to be the same throughout the entire pull and I don't want a really stiff "wall" right before the break that tends to induce the aforementioned harsh break.

I understand that Apex Tactical has a number of trigger kits for the M&P9, and I'd like to hear from people who have used these kits what the character of their trigger is like now. I'd also like to know if Apex has anything suitable for carry that would eliminate that nasty wall and harsh break.

And before anyone says it, no, I do not want a light trigger. I have a double action revolver with a 14lb trigger that I shoot very accurately, especially with my handloads. Trigger weight is not an issue. The harsh break is.

Sounds like you need a Kahr, and it sounds like you've never gotten a chance to handle one. Downside is that they are single stacks only.
An M&P, even with Apex parts, will always have a staple gun character.

i have a map9mm and feel the same about the trigger. Hitting a big wall is a good way of describing it, and then the slamming back and pulling off target. Mine is also kind of gritty. The reset is rediculous also way to long and no feel to it at all. I just orderd the appex kit. I got the duty carry kit the trigger and the reset assistance mechanism. I am having it installed on tues and will take it to the range on Friday. I will post an update after that. You can check my post "noob apex question" to see others info on this topic as well. If i didnt live in COMIE-FORNIA i would get the HKVP9. Hope this helps

The harsh trigger can be improved, but it will take some work.

The Apex Forward Set Sear(FSS) kit however, is the least expensive and fastest way to a decent trigger on the M&P.

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Freedom isn't free.

Ouch...

i have a Shield and had same issue as op with "harsh trigger". All i wanted was the break lightened enough to use trigger with one long continuous pull(no staging). I fixed it by installing only the Apex fully machined sear, nothing else,no spring changes.Cost me about $40 total.....Mike

I have 3 m&p's with different apex parts . Wife CC is a 9C with 4lb 8oz pull only a apex striker block and spring change used out of a kit along with some polishing . One common item it polishing . Her CORE has a apex sear , striker block with the polishing and a bit oif tuning on the connector loop less take up lite wall and barely under 4lb pull . I have a 40 full size with a full straight trigger kit and 3.5lb pull .

Stock m&p's basic trigger are about as crude as a factory trigger can be but with a little polishing alone you can make it better and with a apex a kit done 1 part of the kit at a time and checked you find what you want .

Try a Sig P 320.Much better trigger and very accurate.No aftermarket parts needed.Its good to go right out of the box.

I may be misinterpreting but it sounds like some of you do not want a partially or fully cocked striker design. In a partially cocked design you are going to have a take up section of the trigger pull that deactivates the striker block, then you hit the wall which as you apply pressure fully cocks the striker then releases the striker to fire the pistol.

There are striker fired pistols with better triggers (cleaner and sometimes lighter) then the m&p, but they will all have this characteristic since it is inherent in the design. You could opt for a true DAO (hammer or striker) if you want a trigger that is closer to a revolver (consistent pressure all the way through the trigger pull). The more affordable sd9ve would be more like this as would kahr pistols.

If you don't mind the take up and wall and just want the wall to be lighter then you could look at apex or something like the ppq or vp9.

Both my M&P pistols wear Apex trigger/sear combos and both have been significantly improved via Apex surgery...

The amount of improvement is dependent upon how bad your
trigger was to begin with and what you expect to get

Both M&P's now are reduced take-up to a wall, crisp glass break
with little over travel (I need to address the over travel but I'm picky)...

Other M&P owners remark at the triggers of my Shield and Pro
as being very 1911

Keeping in mind these are striker fired the improvement by
Apex parts is significant but don't try to compare to a nicely
tuned hammer fired wheeler

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M&P 9mm 5" Pro
M&P 9mm Shield

I appreciate everyone's input. This will help me make my decision later down the road.

FWIW I have a similar complaint against my current HD / carry gun, a Glock 19. It has a stiff wall, very harsh break, followed by too much overtravel. I Also hate the lack of Palm swells in the grip. So, I'm trying to decide between doing grip and trigger work on the glock to make it more livable, or move on to something else. M&P is on the list of possible something elses. So is the Sig SP2022, FNS-9, and CZ-75D PCR. Decisions decisions...

I have a 40 that I love so I bought a 9 to go with it and noticed the same thing. There is a big difference in the trigger on my 40 and the 9. I've considered a kit to try and improve the 9, but haven't acted on it yet.

jamesp81 If You conceder the glock to have a stiff wall your real trouble . Learning to stage on the wall is how you shoot tight groups . More than likely anything short of a lite trigger single action like in a 1911 with over travel set screw . Honesty seems like a head game to me .

The trigger on my Sig 1911 is a dream, especially when compared to my M&P 40 FS.

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MSP - Retired

If you're coming from double action revolvers, and familiar with AR triggers at all, then the difference is like that between single stage and two stage triggers.
Either a smooth heavier pull with no real hump before break for the single stage (DA revolver, Kahrs are like this, and my Taurus TCP actually)
or a light first stage up to a wall that needs a decisive push to get over the wall.

The third option is to make the M&P trigger break around the 3lb range, which means the first and second stage are both light enough to not bother your single motion of pulling. Stock it would be like 4lb first stage and 7lb second stage.

I'm very familiar with AR triggers I see the comparison you are making. The 'wall' in an AR trigger has never been a problem because the break isn't harsh. I don't need nearly as much force to overcome the wall even in a regular GI style AR trigger, so I've never felt a need to have expensive race gun triggers for my ARs. I've always shot them well with the standard trigger.