I bought a m&p bodyguard awhile ago caried it a bit in the summer although it felt just better than nothing to be honest. Mostly because of the hammer drag on the assembly and slide. Which Was in specs I according to factory. I know it's a 375 dollar gun but the hammer wag and light strikes on anything other than a few factory loads. Well it's getting colder and now bought a ruger sp101 spurless and polished internals, made custom type sight and installed shims. Well after talking to shim guy and doing some measuring got some shims for bg380 hammer still have to try a couple of different sizes but it straitened hammer out so there no hammer drag and spent 3 min polishing a couple things. But now it doesn't rattle and hammer doesn't lift slide and assembly up abit anymore. Probally won't fire now because that was not how it was designed to work when it was at warrantee dept. i shouldn't say that because may be getting airweight soon. Hope this helps someone.

Your post would be more helpful if we knew whether or not the shims and your home gunsmithing resulting in an improvement or the failure to fire that you expected.

It will fire and was an improvement basically just brings hammer off the slide and assembly. And makes it feel better. I read all this stuff about light strikes And for first 400rds mine was same only thing that really broke In was were the hammer wore. It's a very cheap fix but wouldn't be A factory fix because they would have to hand fit the sear and hammer from factory. But the shims work the same and the bodyguard is a easy pistol to tear down and put together. Will fire it after holiday weekend. i have a shop in garage with everything I need almost except a decent mill with less backlash. Mine was a reverie variable drill or dremel mount rigged to a used mill vice that was probally 50s or eirlier were it just got to the point Were it wasn't practical for small parts. Was a Detroit diesel tech when old couldn't hold onto 249 on top of vehicle accident caught up to bones In top of neck and rest of right side. And never took it easy after that either caught up. Kept all my tools and that's probally best thing I did as engines and firearms are very much alike except its much more enjoyable not working commercial and for money now I do it for enjoyment don't make a cent but getting allot more experience than I ever thought also I took some basic machining classes years ago in college where I Took a bit from but not the person to sit in classes all day.

I got a bit lost in your posts, but think the gist of what you are describing is that you shimmed the hammer in the hopes that it won't drag and maybe FTFire.

I did just this and it made zero difference in the FTFire. Although it seems sloppy that the hammer will drag, apparently it makes no difference.

David

I put enough on right side that it clears slide and assembly and now fires even with Sig ammo today. Don't know how much I shot but was every it of 380 I had and some reloads I made up last week. No drag at all and Now when hammer is back the slide does not lift up at all.( That's the important thing) It took allot more thousands than I originally tried and took some time asseming and disassembling to get the right size since feeler guadges do t exactly help much when assembly goes in frame. Now feeling better carring it because it seems goes bang every time.

Interesting I'd read previously about the hammer on Bodyguards dragging on the right side and causing light strikes but I've not actually seen one with this problem in person.

Any chance you could get a picture of your modification? My BG380 has a slightly offset hammer (to the right) but that IS by design. I don't however think it's intended to interfere with the slide. Mine has no marks, I'm guessing yours does.

The marks are more on the trigger hammer assembly but did rub on slide also. The trigger feels like night and day now. Still is a cheap feeling trigger but doesn't have the drag and is much smoother. Feels way lighter. In the pic you'll see it's still off set to right but clears now. I imagine with the design and tolerances there are some bg380 you can't fix without work on left side of hammer and assembly. (. Not sure but from the machining molding quality I would expect it from tolerances I've measured on two. Also have to remember the the assembly squeezes slightly so full assembly and use the shims to get an accurate measurement). Wich is something s&w warrantee was not willing to do or able to do and Said it was fine even though pistol would only fire with certain ammo and primers reliable. Which is why I only have one smith and now a couple of nice new Rugers. If you want shims email lance at trigger shims and have him put together a kit. He's got great products and amazing communications. Hope this helps didn't pull it apart but can see the slight gap now and the slide didn't lift up just like you would expect out of something your supossed to trust your life too.

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What Dremel tool do you have?

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Several Mac tools pneumatics and one that attaches to a Reversible grinder with rpm setting was out of some old factory i bought from auction cheap locally that was the weird mill setup. Don't have a dremel one but can use all bits and mine are more pencil like. Accually I haven't found a dremel I can control as well as the antique one and the the macs are also thin and feel nice if I could keep torque at lower speeds which they can but need new flex hose to make it allitttle more comfortable. What dremel are good if the old one goes I would look at a thin dremel since there very versatile and could fine other uses. Plus I could keep it cleaner since every thing else I have leave whatever they touch greasy and no matter how clean they are