I have a fairly new.40 Shield, the Slide Stop is super tight. It is extremely difficult to push the slide stop up and lock the Slide back. Once the slide is is locked back, it is near impossible to release the Slide Stop.

Any thoughts on this??

Try this...

Hard to release slide stop

If you're from the 1911 world this is an issue, I understand. On the Shield, think of it as a slide lock rather than a slide release. Just pull back the slide with your off hand and release. Short slide, heavy spring, release lever compact enough not to be an issue when carrying, equals a hard lever to release with thumb pressure.

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Jim - M&P Pro 40L/Shield 40

Thanks for the input, pulling the slide back a touch is the best way to release the slide. Now, here is another question, which I should have mentioned in my first post. Also, locking the slide back is also tough to do, I find the slide extremely stiff and hard to lock back.

Like a. Walther

short slide, strong spring. you have to make sure it is fully pulled to the rear. remember - you are trying to compress a spring almost to "coil bind". there isnt much play there.

Both issues will get better with time. Most people also have problems loading the magazine because the spring in it is very stiff.

thanks for posting the link. I have both a full size and compact; and went looking at a Shield over black Friday. Seemed to have all sorts of trouble with the slide (compared to the 2 MP's i own), though it didnt help that the one being handled was the one available and had the factory grease still coating it. Decided i needed to pass at the time so i could do some research, the info in the link should cover that. thx!

It seems to me that ALL M&Ps (FS, compact & Shields) have very stiff springs. The only fix you really need is to keep working the springs by firing, dry firing, manually racking the slides etc.

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Don

i think the main issue for me was my first time handling a single stack so combine the thinner slide (than i'm used to), a good coating of grease, and it being brand new and it just thru me off a bit.
Cuz yes my other MP's can be stiff, but also can be easy to manage. I'll be still planning to handle a Shield again, just will ensure it is one in the display case not one wrapped in grease and plastic lol.

The recoil spring assembly in the Shield can be a bear for sure. Often times if the slide is super hard to lock back it's just because the RSA is not in the right position. It must be straight when looking at it from the top and when looking at it from the side. You should also rotate the RSA when having difficulty as there is definitely a "sweet spot".

There are also RSA's that just don't function properly and, while you can usually rotate and reposition to try to fix the problem, it usually is fixed with a replacement.

I would agree that the slide lock is just that and shouldn't be used to release the slide. Especially on the Shield. I can do it with my FS40 but generally use the slingshot method.

I have an M&P40 & a 40C & the owner's manuals tells you to pull the slide back & release it. If you're loading a round in the chamber you shouldn't ride the slide but let it go forward with all its force. As it's been already mentioned it's called a slide lock, not a slide release.

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Former USN, Retired US Army

Most of what has been written is good advice. However, I disagree on some points.

No matter what nomenclature you apply to a slide stop/release, it is designed to both stop and release the slide. If not, it would not have the external tab enabling the release, eh? I am just going to call it the lever.

The overhand slingshot method is very robust and predictable. It is also relatively slow to complete and reposition the support hand for firing, and it requires two hands.

A properly functioning lever will release the slide with finger pressure when a loaded mag is in place (or no mag in place) as long as it is properly adjusted. As pointed out previously, trying to move the lever down when the follower in an empty mag is adding upward pressure will make it more difficult to push down. But not impossible--when adjusted properly.

It is always good to have options, and being able to close the slide using the slide release lever is a good option to have. The quickest way to do this is by pushing down the lever with your firing hand thumb (single handed use) or the thumb of the support hand as you reacquire a two-handed firing grip. It is faster than using an overhand slingshot method as it requires much less movement. Competitive shooters on a timer almost always use the lever rather than an overhand slingshot.

For me, properly adjusted means the lever will automatically disengage when I insert a loaded mag with enough force. I don't have to finger the lever or slingshot the slide. The slide closes when the mag is inserted all the way. The momentum of inserting the mag actually dislodges the lever from the slide--only when the mag is fully seated and the top round is positioned to load--and it loads just as reliably as either fingering the lever or using the slingshot method but a lot faster. For me, concentrating on defensive shooting, that is desirable.

Other threads have complained that automatic slide closing happened on their guns new from the factory, but there is no downside. It's the fastest way to get a reload back to shooting. I also practice slingshoting, and one hand manipulations. Default = automatic closing; 2nd action = thumb stop down; 3rd action = slingshot.

The point here is this is a simple friction interface between the slide stop notch on the slide and the rear of the slide stop lever. The factory does not adjust this interface. Some guns come through very hard to manipulate. Others come through easier to manipulate. The interface just needs a very little bit of adjustment to work whatever way you want it to.

Unload completely
Remove slide from gun (any gun with a slide stop)
Remove recoil spring and barrel from slide
Locate the slide stop notch on the slide, rear edge

If your slide stop releases too easily, rough up this surface with some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Do just a little--don't try to remove metal, just increase friction by roughing up the surface. Reassemble and test. Redo until it works as desired. You may have to rough up the mating surface of the lever also.

Conversely, if your stop does not release easily enough, simply use some 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to smooth this interface and reduce friction. You may need to do the same to the rear engagement surface of the lever also. Even add a dab of grease. Go slowly; test your efforts multiple times until you get what you want.

If it gets too slick, rough it up. You can change this ever so slightly multiple times without hurting your gun as long as you don't use files, take off material, or change the engagement angles.

Enjoy your new Shield. Like all mass produced guns, it may take a little adjusting, polishing and breaking in to reach its full potential.