That's funny. Since when did your government start trying to save money?


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I'm pretty sure it says CLP right on the bottle. I don't call my pistol a Smith & Wesson M&P 9mm Full Size I just say my M&P. My car is usually just the Ford or my junker not a three door 1995 Ford Escort Hecho in Mexico. Extreme precision isn't always necessary for good communication. If people want more detailed information they'll ask.

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So does this one:


And many others as well. Which one is everyone else referring to? The one you pictured is Break Free which is a product that cleans, lubricates and protects. So, CLP by itself means any one of bunches of products. Which one are they referring to when they say just CLP?

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What about petroleum jelly can that be used on an M&P?

I will never put a grease on a semi automatic firearm. Grease can cause more problems than cure. There is nothing more dangerous than a sticking/jamming firearm. Stick with proven handgun lubes is my rule for me. Over lube to a firearm can cause more problems than cure also. You will not harm a firearm shooting 50/100 rounds thru it with some sense of need to shoot that rapidly, cleaning it and oiling it. It will be ready for the next shoot and function as needed very nicely. When you clean it you inspect it for problems starting and take care of them as they occur as it ages having fired 1000's of rounds.

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Painted my Mag release red

They all do the same thing. If for some reason you need to know the specific brand ask. Some things are so generic it really doesn't matter for most purposes. Clearly CLP products do exist so saying there's no such thing as CLP is just silly.

I've never had grease jam a gun. If you rub it in and wipe down the excess the film is just as thin as any oil.

I've used it before, worked fine (although all of my pistols have metal frames).
From what I've read, transmission fluid is actually better, as it doesn't have the detergent agents that motor oil does.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease on my slides, smear a dab along the rails and wipe it down. Another dab along the barrel lugs, and another where the hammer and slide contact. Doesn't take much at all, and the guns are super slick.

I think Sig recommends grease on their rails.

There seems to be a lot of internet chatter about using grease on rails if you have an aluminum frame, or if you have stainless steel.

Or just try a little Lucas Gun Grease.

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I also love these threads. The truth is that none of us, either through use or temperature extremes, can stress test most of these products to their limits. As a result, positive anecdotal evidence is nearly useless. You don't see any posts in this thread where someone unequivocally states that "I used product xyz and it failed or wrecked my gun", or something like that. Anything will work until it doesn't. It's finding that point where "it doesn't" that is such concern to everyone. Frankly, even though gun lubes are more expensive than automotive lubes, the few bucks I spend on small amounts of gun lubes at my LGS promotes the financial heathyness of the LGS.

Personally, I use Yak spooge on all my 1 guns and never had my gun fail in the 3 rounds I've fired in it. Call me a snob, but I prefer the spooge from Mongolian Yaks as opposed to domestic or Canadian Yaks.

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Everyone knows it's water buffalo spooge that works the best.

I agree these lubrication threads are commonplace and very little to no new information is advanced. Metal sliding against metal needs lubrication of some sort. Any kind of lubrication is better than none.

But hey, I've been up for two hours and I'm bored. So here is what has worked for me, and why. Just another opinion. Everyone has one.

I owned a company that did used engine oil analysis looking at engine wear to predict engine failure for large fleets. I understand base oils, viscosity, additives, etc.

When oil is refined, there are different products with the full range of viscosities from thin, water-like products to tar. The extreme ends of this range are useless for lubrication.

The center range starting with viscosities in the 5W range are light weight, light lubrication products. They have "light ends", a base that evaporates rather easily under heat. They also do not cling well to surfaces, usually running off rather quickly. Under pressure or at high speeds (like a slide reciprocating), they either are slung off or become ineffective very quickly. Penetrating and cleaning oils use these products as a base.

When 5W oil is recommended for a motor, it is always as the low-end viscosity for a multi-weight oil. No one recommends running a straight 5W oil in an engine, even though forced recirculating helps alleviate some of the negative characteristics of its light weight.

Heavy 50W base oil is thicker, more viscous (flows/moves more slowly). However, as it heats up it flows better. It is too thick for most engines, unless through age they have wider metal wear tolerances. Older engines often run better with a thicker oil, single weight 40W or 50W. Single weight oils retain their viscosity very well, so a thicker oil does not circulate well when an engine is cold. In truth, since it only takes a few minutes to reach operating temperatures and then the oil does its job for extended periods under fairly controlled conditions, the old standard of using a straight 30W oil would still work fine, but multi-viscosity oils can work better for a while, and it allows the refiners to sell a greater range of oil viscosities, especially the thinner stuff.

There can only be one base oil in a motor oil, and it will have a certain viscosity. The way manufacturers sell their whole range of different viscosity oils is by Using additives that change viscosity. Essentially, they add long molecular chains that are susceptible to heat. Friction produces heat. Lubrication reduces friction, which reduces heat. Motor oil has a very important cooling function in an engine, both through preventing friction and carrying away heat to the oil pan. Continuous circulation is a critical factor for motor oils to work, so the oil must both flow and lubricate.

A base oil cannot be made thinner, only thicker with additives. Thus, a 5W-30W multi-viscosity oil is 5W oil that is thickened artificially by the long molecular chain, heat sensitive additive. When the fluid temperature is cold, the molecular chain is short and does little to thicken the oil. The oil will flow well in a cold engine.

When temperatures rise to the normal operating temperature of the engine--controlled often by a thermostat in a closed cooling system--the chains lengthen, making the oil artificially thicker to about 30W, the ideal viscosity for a running engine.

Unfortunately, heat and pressure degrade the viscosity additives, and the long chains break, gradually reducing their ability to thicken the oil and lubricate properly. This is one of the major reasons you change oil in a car engine. Ever notice, that in addition to being dirty, 5,000-mile old multi-viscosity used oil runs out of your oil pan drain like a stream of water? That's because it's back to being about 5W base oil. The additives are worn out.

There's a lot more to this science, and the new base synthetic motor oils do perform somewhat differently and better. Principles are the same though: reduce friction, carry away heat through recirculating, combat oil degradation from heat, fuel blow-by, moisture, rust, metal wear contaminants, etc., with consumable additives.

So, what does this have to do with guns? Well, they operate differently and have different needs than an engine that uses products designed for recirculation to combat friction, wear and heat. This statement is NOT intended to say automotive engine oils will not do an adequate job of lubricating a gun. They will, but they are not designed for this use.

Most gun oils are light oils and similarly do a poor job of staying in place, maintaining a lubricating barrier between fast moving, high pressure, high heat metal parts. They work fine on a trigger axis pin or to protect from rust on non-critical metal parts. However light lubricating oils cannot over time handle the stresses put on the fast moving interfacing metal parts of a gun. First, they are there only for a short time. Second, they do not have the strength to lubricate under great pressure or heat.

On a car, would you put motor oil in your wheel bearings--those parts that have huge metal-to-metal contact, heat and pressure? No. You use grease. Why? It is DESIGNED TO BE USED IN THIS APPLICATION. It stays in place, even if it is just a thin layer. It creates a real barrier between metal surfaces that reduces friction, galling, heat, and wear. It is thick by design to stay in place and continue lubricating over time.

Will it thicken in the cold? Yup, but if used appropriately, that is, applied thinly and spread, not in excessive gobs, it is not an issue until you get way down into subfreezing temperature. Thin oil does not work here either. Will it attract dirt? Yup, and keep working. Eventually, any lube will get dirty and degrade. Then you need to clean it off and replace it, just like with your wheel bearings. Grease lasts longer and does its job better than oil, thus protecting your gun from wear better.

So, if you lube with oil and go shoot up to 250 rounds a session, then clean and lubricate before your next session, bat guano will probably work fine for you. If you shoot a total of under 1,000 rounds/year through your gun, as is true for probably 90% of gun owners, then whatever snake oil you think works best, does.

However, if you shoot a lot, and your semi-auto handgun goes a thousand or more cycles between lubes dozens of times a year, grease is what has been designed for this application. That is, on your high stress, fast moving, heat building, wear prone parts like slide rails, hammers--anywhere you want to keep a film of lubrication in place, both between shooting trips and during shooting, I recommend grease. Oil on the other parts.

Which grease you ask? Ahhhhhhhhhh, that is another thread for another morning.

So bottom line...just dunk the gun right in?

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I've long term stored guns longer than many here would ever think to do. ( 6 years ) Remington oil is really all you need in normal or harsh conditions.

I don't use it myself I use hoppes oil and TW 25 mil spec
grease. I don't clean after every use but maybe after 3 or 4 times. any oil within reason, better then none

I assume that post was tongue-in-cheek, as any extreme of lubrication is counterproductive in some way.

I dunk a Q-tip right in, smear a light film of grease in the right places, store and/or shoot the gun for months without cleaning or relubrication.

I used to clean each gun after each firing and then relubricate it until I found out for me it was a waste of time. I'll generally go 800-1000 rounds without detail cleaning or additional lubrication, depending on conditions and ammo. I've done numerous 2-3 day trainings that involved that many rounds. Did not clean or relube until I got home. Have not had problems related to lubrication.

Also, after extended storage I found I needed to lubricate again before firing, because light oils evaporate over time and run off vertical surfaces. Not completely, but enough that the original lubricating intent is not there in the same way anymore.

Yes it was, I had posted a so that would be clear but somehow it got posted before the quote, so easy to miss.

Waiting to find out what kind of grease you recommend.

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Like the military doesn't do silly stuff?

Then there is R. Lee Ernest who claims to go 5000 rounds without cleaning.



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And even that general rule may NOT be correct. You'll hear from many folks who use it and swear by it (rather than at it); the folks who make WD40 advertise it as a good gun-related lubricant.

I've heard the horror stories about it drying up, turning to something like shellac, and making actions stick, etc., but it's always on the internet, and never in my part of the real world.

Here's a link to the WD40 site, where the firm directly addresses it's use with firearms:

WD-40 Gun Cleaner & Lubricant - WD-40 News

I have literally tried everything and now using a "dry lube", Slip 2000 or Militec-1. These gun cleaner/lube products leave a Teflon coating that's bonded to metal by heat and doesn't attract dirt. My guns stay cleaner and easier to clean after a range visit.

I use MilTec-1 liquid on my new guns after I break them down and polish and clean everything, including the bore, to remove machining marks and make the surfaces smooth. I used to have access to a magnified bore scope. That revealed much to me--how rough factory bores are and how polishing the bore improves many aspects of performance.

Per instructions, I coat the metal parts all over with a film of MilTec. There are no globs or extra running off. I then put all the parts on a cookie sheet in our oven pre-heated to about 200 degrees for 20-30 minutes. Pull it out; let them cool.

Molecular bonding? I don't know. Good lubrication with no wetness that lasts for a 1,000 rounds or more? Yes. Not a cleaner. Does seem to prevent rust. The guns run great and are easier to clean, especially the bore. MilTec liquid is not supposed to be used like regular oil that is applied frequently. It is not a "CLP", only a specifically applied lube, but it has ancillary effects for cleaning and rust prevention.

I will sometimes retreat a cleaned bore after about 1000 rounds because it's easy to do and really helps reduce friction and debris build up.

I have used the MilTec-1 grease on high wear areas after the initial liquid treatment, using it just like normal grease. It functions about the same as the much less expensive wheel bearing grease I use.

When I do a detailed cleaning of my guns I reapply the MilTec-1 with the heat treatment. I think it's worth the effort and expense, but I do not believe it is the only way to prep and lubricate a gun. Just my way.

90% M1 10W30 + 10% MERCON V transmission fluid. And sometimes, 3 IN 1 oil. I also just started experimenting with GRIZZLY GREASE.
I like it when the nay sayers speak out against using motor oil. That just makes me want to use it more!

I use synthetic motor oil and have for years. No rust in my safe and I live in a fairly humid climate.

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I checked STI manual and it is only recommended if filter is changed also. Be Safe

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So, someone(like well respected author and gunsmith Grant Cunningham) saying something is not all that effective and potentially toxic and harmful and subsequently recommends you avoid using it for your own health and well being makes you somehow want to use it more?

I'm not a respected author or gunsmith. But I have used Mobile 1 synthetic since the late 90's. It's quite effective. It solved some motorcycle issues back then. Still keeping a bottle next to my gun cleaning equipment & reloading machines. In real life, not every notable author, has used and tested every product.

My primary point was regarding the toxicity. There is no logic in using something potentially harmful when there are options out there that work as good or better and don't come with the same health risks.

Does all this mean we should use gun lubricant in our automobiles?

No, it's too expensive.


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What do you think is coming out of Bubba's tailpipe? It ain't the latest PC gun oil. Everybody that's on a street is breathing motor oil, gasoline too.

Don't tell Greg Cunningham I wouldn't want him to worry about it.

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I've used Ballistol forever with no issues at all. If Hickok45 uses it I'm sure he wouldn't brag on it if it didn't work.
Here's some good info if you want to break it down.
Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared : Day At The Range

That link is an amazing test. I have some issues with his scientific methodology, but you can't argue with the results.

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Like one poster mentioned there all kinds of lubes for firearms.
Motor oils contain detergents. They're specifically developed at great cost by oil companies that help clean as well as lubricate.
People may use what ever they wish on their personal weapons.
Me? I use motor oil in my vehicle and weapon lube on my firearms.
Poli Viejo

A common sentiment I see on threads on like this goes something like..."I use brand X because it works." Considering the needs of most civilians, pretty much any oil would work.

My father and grandfather always used Hoppes oil. For their needs(hunting and occasional plinking), it served them well despite it being nothing more than plain mineral oil.

I own Glocks and aluminum/stainless steel revolvers. Both are highly rust/corrosion resistance and neither require much oil. For my needs(CCW and occasion range practice) pretty much any oil would be fine. I used Hoppes for many years, but for awhile I bought into the hype that I somehow needed something better and wasted a lot of money on various high-tech super lubes. Eventually I came to my senses and realized that I'm not a Navy SEAL and don't need something that will hold up to a 24 hour salt spray nor do I run my weapons exceptionally hard or for long periods of time.

I now get my gun oil in the pharmacy. USP white mineral oil. Same stuff I have used on my knives for decades and unknowingly used(in the form of Hoppes) on my guns. It costs a fraction of what "gun oil" or even motor oil costs, has absolutely no concerns regarding toxicity(since it's intended use is for you to drink it or put on your skin) and it works just fine for my purposes. It makes sense to me, but YMMV.

I think he's telling us that none are bad but some are better and it's all about choice.
Now if I were still in the Army firing 1,000s of rounds a day I'd want the best there is but we don't get to choose when it's free.
I heard claim that some families send them a certain brand that ask for but I don't recall which one.
I've used Ballistol for years and no issues whatsoever. I sold a Glock a while back and the guy asked me if it had been fired saying it looked brand new. So I'll stick with Ballistol.

I use moly to lube my guns. If it's messy you have too much moly in it.
My 1911,
I burnish moly into the pores of the metal. Wipe off the excess. Add a little moly then assemble. I put moly on the frame rails, guide rod, recoil spring, trigger sear, barrel lug, barrel and barrel bushing. Assemble the gun and cycle it by hand 50 to 100 times. Wipe off the excess and she's ready to shoot.

Oil is for the bores.

Moly
Eliminates all wear
It wears against itself, moly against moly.no metal to metal contact.
Reduces friction
It will cycle faster and smoother. Reduces trigger pull.
Fights corrosion
Doesn't attract dirt
Stays were we put it
Even after long term storage it's ready to rock n roll at anytime.

Ballistol for general cleaning and Tetra gun grease in miniscule amounts for things that slide . So far so good .

There are a lot of "moly" products out there. How about some specifics, or even a link, to exactly what you're recommending?

I find it amusing that some of you are so cheap you won't buy a gun specific lube for your guns and use motor oil. Motor oil has all kinds of things in it that make it toxic. Gun oil or a bottle of break free protects against corrosion better and poses no danger to the finish on your blued weapons. Don't be cheap, use the proper oils.

Motor oil isn't harmful to the gun but most modern automotive oil's are designed to migrate so motor oil isn't the best gun oil as it migrates into places it really doesn't belong then attracts dust, dirt, lint, & firing residue.

Not a big deal on range guns but for a carry gun you don't want motor oil.

If you store your gun in a very cold vehicle overnight (like well below freezing) then motor oil can also slow a hammer drop enough to hinder positive firing.

If motor oil was the best then it would be used by the military & recommended by the gun manufacturers.

Some seem to make decent gun oil, but motor oil is optimized for conditions in a crankcase and wherever tje oil is pumped to around the moving parts. It works over a high temperature range and most likely contains detergents and other additives and properties that MIGHT not be the best for guns.

Yeah, I buy gun oil but if I was in a pinch I'd go out to my garage and get some motor oil. A gun doesn't carry high loads or high rpms or get too terribly hot. The main properties I want is corrosion resistance. In a very comprehensive test of many samples of gun products on many samples of metal, not all of them were great as rust preventative and some were terrible.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Well, thanks a pantload for the condescending lecture, but the overwhelming number of people I've ever come across that use motor oils (including myself occasionally), don't do so out of "cheapness", but out of an understanding that the gun lube industry has been scamming us for years, with their $5-10 micro-bottles of their latest,greatest Mega-Ultra-Super-Triple-Deluxe snake oils.....that are inevitably declared obsolete or lacking, in favor of the next big thing.
The argument concerning possible toxicity of auto lubes is a fair point, but other than that, automotive lubricants are MORE than sufficiently capable of lubricating a protecting a relatively low-wear,low-heat machine like a civilian firearm.
As had been accurately stated already, countless times, it doesn't so much matter what you use, as long as you properly clean and lube the damn thing. Hell, everything from 3-in-1 to Crisco to Hawaiian Tropic will adequately lube a weapon for at least a shooting session.

I use Finish Line Teflon bearing grease on surfaces that make hard contact like slide rails and locking surfaces and CPL or RemOil for general use.

I've heard that for years, but I've yet to actually see evidence that WD-40 is a problem. (I don't use it, but there's a lot of other things I hear I should NOT do that I don't do, too. I do have several cans of WD-40 that I've used around the house and yard, however.)

WD-40 cites gun lubrication as one of the recommended uses of their product, and their website offers customer comments to that end -- including testimonials by gunsmiths.

I hear about folks having their guns "shellac-up" from (long-term) ongoing use of WD-40, but these stories are always based on what they were told about things that happened to someone else's gun. I've never really seen many personal testimony by victims, and never any evidence of any sort. It's always second-hand information offered without evidence (which could include photos, a gunsmith's bill, or expert testimoney (such as a gunmaker or gunsmiths.)

I'm sure WD-40 is NOT as good as some gun products when used as a lubricant, and certainly not as good as others as a corrosion resistant material, and I don't know about it's use as a solvent. (It's not really offered as a solvent by WD-40.) That said, I do know that if you get a gun dunked in water, WD-40 has it's uses.

Seems as though WD-40 would be in big trouble from angry customers if, when used as recommended, it messes up (locks up, etc.) a lot of guns. Does ANYONE here have a credible, definitive tests or analysis of what WD-40 will REALLY do when used in firearms?

I wonder if the concern about WD-40 is just based on another internet myth?

Ignoring the "rant" aspect of your post, you do make a good point about expense. However, is it really all that expensive? I have a bottle of gun specific lube that was pretty expensive. I think it cost $15 for a 4oz bottle 5 years ago. I still have half the bottle left and I use it all the time. At the rate I'm using it, it will last at least 10 years. So, yeah, it's more expensive, but don't try to act like it's so expensive that people HAVE to use motor oil just to get by.

Absolutely correct. I even know one guy who tried to duplicate the "shellac" effect of WD-40 and couldn't do it. It turns out that when WD-40 is used as recommended, just like any lube, it works fine. Put it on any surface and then leave it for 20 years and it probably won't work as well as when new.

While WD-40 will work, it's too thin to work for extended periods. This is one reason gun specific lubes are better for guns. It does work nicely to keep my front gate from squeaking though.

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Ok, I have almost run my guns at the range almost totally dry. Maybe I need to dab a tad bit of AmsOil on it next time.

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Been using 10-30 wt Mobile One for years on everything. It works great, as good or better than most gun oils. Actually, a modern synthetic motor oil is probably a higher quality oil than most gun oils, and a lot cheaper.

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There was a very expensive do all gun cleaner/ lubrication product out a few years ago, every expert and gun guru was swearing by it. It turned out to be canola oil. Than I thought to my self, hey if it works. So while I won't clean and lubricate with canola oil, I do use it down the barrel for lead removal. I liberally coat the inside of the leaded barrel a few times, let it sit about an hour, the lead comes out in sheets and chunks. You can also use it for frying and cooking.

Breakfree clp came to market as break free brand CLP. They had to teach us what CLP stood for. Then all the others showed up and took the CLP word for their own. So CLP is break free and frog lube is a clp. Now where is my Kleenex?

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