What purpose does this piece serve?

I just picked up a 5" 9mm M2.0 and the trigger feels pretty gritty. I never had or shot the 1.0 to compare it to. I've heard it was a big improvement and I figured worse comes to worse, Apex. But after fondling the trigger here and there for 2 days, I don't think it would be fixed by a new trigger.

It seems that as the hook at the end of the trigger bar rides across that button I get the gritty feeling. With a light, I can kind of see it happening as I press the trigger.

Is this normal or is something bent? I still consider myself new to firearms.

Attached Images

M&P under slide.jpg (8.7 KB, 202 views)

I'm not familiar with that particular pistol but it appears to be a firing pin drop safety.

It's the firing pin block. The trigger bar pushes it up (disengages it) as the trigger is pulled to the rear.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Is it normal to feel and hear that?

Here's a video that may help

Yes it normal. M&P triggers are a mixed bag. When new, some of them are rather smooth, while some have the infamous "grit". Your trigger should smooth up significantly after several trips to the range, and a good bit of ammo through the gun. You could always go with Apex if it is too bothersome.

Good luck!

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The Penetration Channel

It's normal. With my M&P 40 compact (1.0), the trigger was gritty at first, but it smoothed out nicely between 500 and 1000 rounds. You could buy an Apex kit, but my advice is to shoot the heck out of it and smooth it out yourself.

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What, me worry?

Most of mine had that gritty feel on the initial take up. I lightly sanded the hump on the trigger bar that engages the striker block with 600 grit sandpaper to smooth the sharp edges. After that I hit it with some rouge on a small buffing wheel to polish it out. Only takes a few minutes and afterwards the trigger was much smoother.

The Apex makes a HUGE difference.

That is the striker block and Apex has an improved one in their kit.

I feel that I could probably do it myself. Since this pistols purpose is IDPA and not just for the range, i would rather not. I was planning on cerekoting the slide black at some point, anyways. I will deal with it until then, see if it gets any better, and have the APEX part installed at time of color changing.

Thank you guys for suck quick responses!

Just be aware of IDPA rules when you start changing parts. Depending on which division you shoot, the allowable parts are different. If you're shooting SSP then you can't change anything that is visible externally (which means you can change the sear, striker block and springs), or if you're shooting ESP, then you can change externally visible parts (as well as internal parts) Have fun

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Minimize the variables

Here's how the trigger works:

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Freedom isn't free.

Shooting hundreds and hundreds of rounds will gradually improve trigger feel, but for me it is a frustratingly slow way to get an improved trigger that will probably never be as good as a firing system with properly polished components.

Polishing is not changing parts, so you will be OK with IDPA.

Polishing where the trigger bar contacts the striker safety as suggested will make a great deal of difference. At the same time, polish any other mating metal surfaces the same way. Polishing the actual striker safety and its channel will make this an excellent trigger. A good gunsmith can do this quickly for not too much $$$.

This is the edge you need to polish to remove the gritty:

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Freedom isn't free.

Nice explanation. Thanks.

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