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  #1  
Old 04-17-2017, 02:48 PM
tlcoulter tlcoulter is offline
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Default Apex Trigger Kit - Shield - DIY

I am a mechanical klutz, but I was able to install an Apex trigger kit in my S&W Model 638 Revolver. Now I am contemplating putting an Apex kit in my Shield 40.

How does the degree of difficulty compare between installing the kit on a revolver versus a semi-automatic?
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:50 PM
Shield9mm Shield9mm is offline
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never taken apart a revolver so can't say much, but on the pistol probably the hardest is removing the rear sights.
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:53 PM
ken158 ken158 is offline
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The auto is much more difficult then the revolver and as noted, getting the rear sight off a Shield can be a bear.
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:57 PM
icemn icemn is offline
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You are clearly not a mechanical klutz! If you can handle the revolver, you'll be fine working on the shield.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:22 PM
Wee Hooker Wee Hooker is online now
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Depends on how much kit you want to install.
Just putting a sear in gives you about 75% of the benefits of the full blown kit and ( if memory serves) only requires popping the sear block from the frame after pushing one pin . ( Read: pretty easy). Changing additional springs and/or the trigger itself goes up in involvement but none of it is hard. (Much easier than a revolver IMHO) As mentioned, If you want to install a new safety plunger and spring, the rear sight needs to come out. That can be easy or hard depending on the individual gun and your availability of tools.
FWIW, I often get the results I want by just doing the sear and polishing the trigger bar and plunger on my M&Ps.

Check out youtube for lots of video's showing the process.
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Last edited by Wee Hooker; 04-18-2017 at 06:12 AM.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:26 PM
Dad_Roman Dad_Roman is offline
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^^^^^^^ +1 ^^^^^^^^

AND I just dropped the sear only into my Shield9 and it made a DRAMATIC difference. From 6.5 down to 5.

Last edited by Dad_Roman; 04-17-2017 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 04-17-2017, 07:04 PM
greeenteeee greeenteeee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dad_Roman View Post
^^^^^^^ +1 ^^^^^^^^

AND I just droppe the sear only into my Shield9 and it made a DRAMATIC difference. From 6.5 down to 5.
Good to hear. The biggest trouble as mentioned is the rear sight IMO. I took my pins out the other day to tinker with the internals. Wasn't too bad, except one of the roll pins chipped, but was able to still use it.

I'm considering the sear only-- luckily the USB on mine doesn't feel too gritty.
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Old 04-17-2017, 07:56 PM
Zoner Zoner is online now
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i also did the sear only and am very happy with the result. The Shield is a self defense/carry gun and doesn't need a target grade trigger to do what it is meant to do.
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:12 PM
Bill In Texas Bill In Texas is offline
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I think you could do it! The toughest part is getting the rear sight off!
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:38 PM
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S&W Rover S&W Rover is offline
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Removing the rear sight is not hard, but it is best to be prepared before doing it. Make sure you remove the rear sight in the correct direction (the dovetail is directionally tapered!). Removing the sight can be done with a wooden block and a hammer, using a vise with the slide well-protected. But it is best done with a sight pusher, like the MGW sight pusher. A proper sight pusher is less likely to damage the finish on the sight or the pistol.

But as noted, the USB provides a small percentage of the benefits of the kit. So you can leave it alone and see if you like it with just the sear installed. The sear is the main contributor to a lighter trigger press.

Replacing the striker spring can lessen resistance to the trigger press as well, but may/may result in lighter strikes -- too light to ignite the primer (some primers are harder than others. In particular, Russian-made primers are known for being hard, as are primers on some of the top end NATO-spec 9mm ammo).
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Last edited by S&W Rover; 04-18-2017 at 07:41 PM.
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