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  #1  
Old 08-24-2017, 12:39 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Default Malfunctioning Brand new M&P M2.0 5" model - 9 FTEs

Just shot my brand new M2.0 5" FDE model the other day and had a total of 9 failures to eject/extract the casing from the chamber. The fired casing would remain in the barrel while the slide tried to chamber a fresh round, resulting in a double feed. This type of malfunction requires the magazine to be removed in order to clear it. I was using good Winchester brass. I also put 50+ rounds of the same ammo from the same box through my glock 26 and had no ejection issues at all. For full disclosure, I removed the thumb safety before my first trip to the range. When I removed the safety I only worked on the frame portion and took the slide completely off, so there was no damage to the extractor or anything. Also, one of the two magazines that came with the gun doesn't drop free when the mag release is pressed, whether it's fully loaded or empty.
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:08 PM
Nonuthin Nonuthin is offline
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Failure to extract is about the worst kind of jam you can have. It really takes you out of the action! Some causes that usually require factory repair: poor barrel-to-slide fit; poor barrel timing due to bad barrel or locking block specs; of course, restricted/defective bad extractor or extractor spring; rough or out-of-spec chamber; etc.

I didn't see any obvious rim damage to the fired case from the extractor claw so I guess sticking in a rough chamber could be eliminated...

All these kinds of problems usually require a factory warranty repair. Put your original parts back in and send it in. Good Luck.
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:13 PM
gonerydin gonerydin is online now
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If you're shooting 115gr I would move up to 124 for a while. Often times new pistols are a bit balky with lighter loads. Once it's broken in it will probably work fine with 115 ft. Just a thought.


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Old 08-24-2017, 01:25 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonuthin View Post
Failure to extract is about the worst kind of jam you can have. It really takes you out of the action! Some causes that usually require factory repair: poor barrel-to-slide fit; poor barrel timing due to bad barrel or locking block specs; of course, restricted/defective bad extractor or extractor spring; rough or out-of-spec chamber; etc.

I didn't see any obvious rim damage to the fired case from the extractor claw so I guess sticking in a rough chamber could be eliminated...

All these kinds of problems usually require a factory warranty repair. Put your original parts back in and send it in. Good Luck.
I will definitely be sending it in. I'm a little irritated though as this is the 2nd M&P pistol I've owned and I had problems with the last one as well. This one is a bit more irritating because it was the first time I ever fired it. What do you think about the magazine not dropping free?
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:27 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonerydin View Post
If you're shooting 115gr I would move up to 124 for a while. Often times new pistols are a bit balky with lighter loads. Once it's broken in it will probably work fine with 115 ft. Just a thought.


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I do believe that perhaps a change in brand/type/grain of ammo could fix the issue or cause it not to happen again, but it shouldn't happen in the first place. 9 failures to extract within the first 100 rounds is just unacceptable. It almost makes me feel as if I can never trust the pistol again to be 100% reliable.
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:40 PM
wrangler5 wrangler5 is offline
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I'd sure try gonerydin's suggestion of more break-in shooting before giving up on the gun's function. While some people have zero defects from the first shot, these ARE mass produced products with tolerances which CAN stack the wrong way on the line.

Magazines that won't drop free do sound like a return-to-factory problem. But if a few hundred more rounds down the pipe will smooth out the working surfaces to where the gun is 100% on reliability, then that's one less thing for the factory to have to diagnose and fix, and you might not have to start over on the break-in when the gun comes back with properly functioning mags. (Of course, the factory may decide the mag well is out of spec and can only be fixed with a new gun, but that's a risk you run with any repair these days - I have a Shield 22 Compact back at the mothership whose mags won't stay IN unless you push 'em in a certain way, and the fact that they DO work normally if I reverse the mag catch has me thinking the frame is somehow just ever so slightly out of whack, and I fear the way they'll fix it is with a new gun. Oh well . . . )
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:40 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonerydin View Post
If you're shooting 115gr I would move up to 124 for a while. Often times new pistols are a bit balky with lighter loads. Once it's broken in it will probably work fine with 115 ft. Just a thought.


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I do believe that perhaps a change in brand/type/grain of ammo could fix the issue or cause it not to happen again, but it shouldn't happen in the first place. 9 failures to extract within the first 100 rounds is just unacceptable. It almost makes me feel as if I can never trust the pistol again to be 100% reliable.
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  #8  
Old 08-24-2017, 01:45 PM
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For that type of failure, I would send it back.
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:47 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler5 View Post
I'd sure try gonerydin's suggestion of more break-in shooting before giving up on the gun's function. While some people have zero defects from the first shot, these ARE mass produced products with tolerances which CAN stack the wrong way on the line.

Magazines that won't drop free do sound like a return-to-factory problem. But if a few hundred more rounds down the pipe will smooth out the working surfaces to where the gun is 100% on reliability, then that's one less thing for the factory to have to diagnose and fix, and you might not have to start over on the break-in when the gun comes back with properly functioning mags. (Of course, the factory may decide the mag well is out of spec and can only be fixed with a new gun, but that's a risk you run with any repair these days - I have a Shield 22 Compact back at the mothership whose mags won't stay IN unless you push 'em in a certain way, and the fact that they DO work normally if I reverse the mag catch has me thinking the frame is somehow just ever so slightly out of whack, and I fear the way they'll fix it is with a new gun. Oh well . . . )
Sorry for the double reply first off. This website doesn't seem to work well on mobile browser. To your point, I would really hope not to ever have a malfunction like this, especially 9 of them. I've never had a single malfunction with my glock. I know they can't be compared. But is it really fair to say "oh well shoot it some more and put those malfunctions behind you in the past. The gun might work then."

And to your second point, is it a bad thing if they replace the whole gun? The frame could be out of spec. Will that incur any charges if they deem the gun needs to be replaced?
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:53 PM
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I hate it for you. It really sucks to get something new that's malfunctioning from the beginning. Regarding ammo... That pistol should not be that finicky.


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Old 08-24-2017, 01:58 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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I hate it for you. It really sucks to get something new that's malfunctioning from the beginning. Regarding ammo... That pistol should not be that finicky.


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If it comes back from the factory I suppose I can trust it again. I just have not had good luck with Smith in my lifetime. Only owned two though.... 0_o
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Old 08-24-2017, 02:25 PM
Cheapskait Cheapskait is offline
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Is the extractor supposed to stick out like that?

I don't have a 2.0, but the extractor on my 40c is slightly recessed and doesn't stand proud of the slide. Maybe you've got a burr or some manufacturing crude under there or maybe a broken/defective/missing extractor spring.
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Old 08-24-2017, 02:32 PM
wrangler5 wrangler5 is offline
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For years, the usual advice for checking out an autoloader before carrying it for personal defense has been to shoot it until it had 100/200/500/1000/pick-your-number of consecutive shots without a failure. And that included trying different ammo. Precisely BECAUSE new guns are known for not always being totally reliable right out of the box, and for sometimes not liking a particular brand or bullet weight. I've NEVER heard anybody say that if a gun has ANY failures with the first brand and type of ammo you try, before it has been through a reasonable break-in regime, then you should not trust it, no matter how many flawless strings it may have later with that or other ammo.

Sure, lots of people report flawless reliability out of the box, with the first ammo they try, even without a hint of cleaning the brand new gun. And we may all be spoiled by those reports, or even our own excellent experiences. But is it realistic to set that as a MINIMUM, when the historic experience recommends hundreds of rounds, and usually different ammo, before making a judgment?

Admittedly, if you're going to send the gun in for the magazine fix you may not want to "waste" any more ammo on function testing. I was just pointing out that IF the magazine problem can be fixed without a new frame/gun, then you might avoid having to go through the break-in process again if you got THIS barrel/slide/frame setup to work first, so the factory didn't have to fiddle with it.

As for replacing the whole gun if the frame turns out to be slightly out of spec - well, that's what you'd want 'em to do. It's just a nuisance have to go through the FFL/background check process again, when a "normal" repair comes directly back to your door. I've been through the replacement process, though, and there is NO extra cost - all the shipping is covered both ways and S&W reimburses the FFL/transfer fee too - it's just the nuisance of having to go to the FFL and then submit the receipt to S&W.
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Old 08-24-2017, 02:59 PM
Saudade Saudade is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheapskait View Post
Is the extractor supposed to stick out like that?

I don't have a 2.0, but the extractor on my 40c is slightly recessed and doesn't stand proud of the slide. Maybe you've got a burr or some manufacturing crude under there or maybe a broken/defective/missing extractor spring.
Bingo! The extractor is stuck. You can try pressing on the exposed end with something non-marring and see if the slips back into place.

Did you load a round through the ejection port and close the slide on it?
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:11 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheapskait View Post
Is the extractor supposed to stick out like that?

I don't have a 2.0, but the extractor on my 40c is slightly recessed and doesn't stand proud of the slide. Maybe you've got a burr or some manufacturing crude under there or maybe a broken/defective/missing extractor spring.
I don't have it in front of me currently but I think the slide changes made on the new 2.0 might include different machining in that area. But if it were stuck, every round would fail to extract. It extracted the first 50 or so fine and then started occurring every 5-10 rounds or so, with a sting of 3 malfunctions occurring withing 8 rounds of each other. First 50 rounds were federal brass 115gr with no problems and then the Winchester started causing issues.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:12 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Originally Posted by Saudade View Post
Bingo! The extractor is stuck. You can try pressing on the exposed end with something non-marring and see if the slips back into place.

Did you load a round through the ejection port and close the slide on it?
Thanks for the reply, see my response above.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:17 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler5 View Post
For years, the usual advice for checking out an autoloader before carrying it for personal defense has been to shoot it until it had 100/200/500/1000/pick-your-number of consecutive shots without a failure. And that included trying different ammo. Precisely BECAUSE new guns are known for not always being totally reliable right out of the box, and for sometimes not liking a particular brand or bullet weight. I've NEVER heard anybody say that if a gun has ANY failures with the first brand and type of ammo you try, before it has been through a reasonable break-in regime, then you should not trust it, no matter how many flawless strings it may have later with that or other ammo.

Sure, lots of people report flawless reliability out of the box, with the first ammo they try, even without a hint of cleaning the brand new gun. And we may all be spoiled by those reports, or even our own excellent experiences. But is it realistic to set that as a MINIMUM, when the historic experience recommends hundreds of rounds, and usually different ammo, before making a judgment?

Admittedly, if you're going to send the gun in for the magazine fix you may not want to "waste" any more ammo on function testing. I was just pointing out that IF the magazine problem can be fixed without a new frame/gun, then you might avoid having to go through the break-in process again if you got THIS barrel/slide/frame setup to work first, so the factory didn't have to fiddle with it.

As for replacing the whole gun if the frame turns out to be slightly out of spec - well, that's what you'd want 'em to do. It's just a nuisance have to go through the FFL/background check process again, when a "normal" repair comes directly back to your door. I've been through the replacement process, though, and there is NO extra cost - all the shipping is covered both ways and S&W reimburses the FFL/transfer fee too - it's just the nuisance of having to go to the FFL and then submit the receipt to S&W.
I would agree it's not fair to demand zero failures, I'm just basing my current experience off of past experiences. I would just hope not to have 9 failures to extract from a brand new go-to-war/duty pistol from a company with a great reputation, all within the first day to the range. Maybe I'm being ridiculous but I'd expect better performance.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:26 PM
Cheapskait Cheapskait is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgsmash View Post
...if it were stuck, every round would fail to extract. It extracted the first 50 or so fine and then started occurring every 5-10 rounds or so, with a sting of 3 malfunctions occurring withing 8 rounds of each other. First 50 rounds were federal brass 115gr with no problems and then the Winchester started causing issues.
An autoloader can function without an operable extractor as the fired case itself has momentum going toward the rear and there's residual gas pressure in the barrel. An example is the tip-up barrel Berettas which do not have extractors at all.

Throw some lube in there and try wiggling the extractor to free it up.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Cheapskait View Post
An autoloader can function without an operable extractor as the fired case itself has momentum going toward the rear and there's residual gas pressure in the barrel. An example is the tip-up barrel Berettas which do not have extractors at all.

Throw some lube in there and try wiggling the extractor to free it up.
That's true, I have both a SMC380, and a PA63 they both use the same extractor. The 380 is slightly smaller rim than the 9X18 so the extractor is really loose. The SMC though is completely reliable. The ejector is what really kicks the round out of the slide, without it the case would just be pushed back in. I would be surprised though if a new gun had a bad ejector.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:32 PM
wrangler5 wrangler5 is offline
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Might try some compressed air, too.
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Old 08-24-2017, 04:20 PM
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It shouldn't matter what brand/type/grain ammo you choose to shoot in it, esp. it being a new gun. I think it's an extractor/extractor spring issue. I know this from experience. Several years ago when I bought my SD40VE it was having the SAME EXACT problem. I sent it back to S&W. 3.5 weeks later it came back with a new extractor and extractor spring.
Maybe yours could be the same issue, or not. But, I would definitely send it back.
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Old 08-24-2017, 04:27 PM
Cheapskait Cheapskait is offline
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Maybe yours could be the same issue, or not. But, I would definitely send it back.
I don't know, but it could be something really simple like a piece of machining debris wedged between the extractor and the cut in the slide. He might be able to save the time by popping out the extractor pin and taking a gander himself.
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:01 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Originally Posted by Cheapskait View Post
I don't know, but it could be something really simple like a piece of machining debris wedged between the extractor and the cut in the slide. He might be able to save the time by popping out the extractor pin and taking a gander himself.
The extractor pin is a roll pin so how hard are those to remove? And aren't the springs very heavy, meaning potentially difficult to reinstall?
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:10 PM
Arik Arik is offline
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I would try a different brand of ammo just to rule out that possibility. Having said that S&W did have this issue back when they made the 357 Sig M&P. I know because I owned one and I wasn't the only one having that issue. It would rarely extract and was practically a single shot muzzle loader because I would have to tap out the brass after each and every shot. When, on the rare occasion, it did extract I was actually caught off guard

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Old 08-24-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingwolf View Post
That's true, I have both a SMC380, and a PA63 they both use the same extractor. The 380 is slightly smaller rim than the 9X18 so the extractor is really loose. The SMC though is completely reliable. The ejector is what really kicks the round out of the slide, without it the case would just be pushed back in. I would be surprised though if a new gun had a bad ejector.
Walkingwolf makes an excellent point EXCEPT he forgot to note that Jorgsmash was removing the safety, which is right in the area of the frame where THE EJECTOR IS LOCATED. Jorgsmash I would suggest that you take a very close look at the Ejector in your frame because it may have been displaced from it's correct position when you removed the safety.
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:32 PM
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So just thoroughly examined the extractor and everything looks OK. It appears it's supposed to stick out slightly. I used the pin that goes in the grip to move the extractor around and the spring seems fine and strong. It moves freely. There's no evidence to suggest the loaded indicator could cause problems is there?
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Old 08-24-2017, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorgsmash View Post
So just thoroughly examined the extractor and everything looks OK. It appears it's supposed to stick out slightly. I used the pin that goes in the grip to move the extractor around and the spring seems fine and strong. It moves freely. There's no evidence to suggest the loaded indicator could cause problems is there?
I would still send it back.
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Old 08-24-2017, 08:04 PM
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I posted some of the same issues with my 2.0 and received a lot of good suggestions. Before I sent it back to Smith I let my gunsmith play with it. He's a certified M&P armorer and experienced the same problems. He took the gun completely apart and found metal shavings under the extractor and inside the firing pin assembly. He also found what appeared to be grease of some kind inside the firing pin assembly He gave it a god cleaning, lubed in the correct places and proceeded to put a box of 124 grain ball through the pistol without a hitch. I have since put 300 trouble free rounds through it. He said one of the things drummed into their heads in the school was not put any kind of lubricant on the firing pin assembly. Don't know whether this could be your issue.
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Old 08-24-2017, 11:40 PM
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I just got my new 2.0 5" 9mm yesterday. Stripped it and greased the slide rails and oiled as per the manual. It was very dry when I got it. I hope I have better luck than you in the reliability department! Good luck!
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Old 08-25-2017, 03:58 AM
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The extractor is supposed to be like that. They machined away some of the material in that area but used the same extractor so it just kind of sticks out a little. Winchester white box 115 G is notoriously underpowered and known for causing issues like this. If you didn't have any problems with Federal it's because it's actually good quality ammunition with a good amount of power. In order to make some pistolsfunction with really low powered ammunition they would have to use a lighter recoil spring which would only make heavier ammunition recoil more and then people would complain about too much recoil so it's a balancing act.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgsmash View Post
But if it were stuck, every round would fail to extract.
Not necessarily. It could be an intermittent problem caused by a burr on the machined surfaces. This could cause it to delay movement enough that it's a problem sometimes, but works most times.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:48 PM
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Usually ammo or mag related nowadays.

Last edited by stavey; 08-26-2017 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:24 PM
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Jorgsmash, you keep focusing on the Slide when chances are that the problem lies with your FRAME. Specifically the EJECTOR which is a finger shaped part projecting forward from the area of the Safety Lever that you removed. This is the part that "kicks" the case sideways out of the ejection port as the slide moves to the rear. If you have this piece out of postion as a result of your removing the safety the failures you have experienced are EXACTLY what you have experienced. I would suggest that you post some pictures of the TOP of your frame so those experienced with this pistol and look and see of the Ejector is properly positioned.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:07 AM
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scooter123,
I don't think that could be it. In this case, the spent cartridge is not pulled back far enough to contact the ejector. Good or bad, the ejector is not in play here.

Look again at this picture:
Malfunctioning Brand new M&P M2.0 5" model - 9 FTEs-20170822_172027-jpg

It is clear that the expended case has not moved backward far enough to contact the ejector.

No, we may not have completely resolved this, but it's certainly not the ejector. This is a failure-to-extract and not a failure-to-eject.
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:10 AM
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A FEW teething issues is one thing, but nine of them seems indicative of something more serious (especially on a modern, big-name polymer pistol that typically runs right out of the box).
As others have said, I'd let S&W pay to take a look at it. You have that original-owner warranty, might as well put it to good use, rather than keep wasting ammo hoping it settles down.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:56 PM
Jorgsmash Jorgsmash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter123 View Post
Jorgsmash, you keep focusing on the Slide when chances are that the problem lies with your FRAME. Specifically the EJECTOR which is a finger shaped part projecting forward from the area of the Safety Lever that you removed. This is the part that "kicks" the case sideways out of the ejection port as the slide moves to the rear. If you have this piece out of postion as a result of your removing the safety the failures you have experienced are EXACTLY what you have experienced. I would suggest that you post some pictures of the TOP of your frame so those experienced with this pistol and look and see of the Ejector is properly positioned.
I took a look at that a few weeks ago and it looks how it should but I'll post pics later today.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rastoff View Post
scooter123,
I don't think that could be it. In this case, the spent cartridge is not pulled back far enough to contact the ejector. Good or bad, the ejector is not in play here.

Look again at this picture:
Malfunctioning Brand new M&P M2.0 5" model - 9 FTEs-20170822_172027-jpg

It is clear that the expended case has not moved backward far enough to contact the ejector.

No, we may not have completely resolved this, but it's certainly not the ejector. This is a failure-to-extract and not a failure-to-eject.
Thanks for the response. I also was thinking this same thing, as the casing isn't even being pulled out of the chamber. I think it's an issue with the extractor and will be sending it off to S&W. I also considered the Apex extractor which focuses on reliability, but have read some reviews saying they experienced just the opposite with it.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter123 View Post
Jorgsmash, you keep focusing on the Slide when chances are that the problem lies with your FRAME. Specifically the EJECTOR which is a finger shaped part projecting forward from the area of the Safety Lever that you removed. This is the part that "kicks" the case sideways out of the ejection port as the slide moves to the rear. If you have this piece out of postion as a result of your removing the safety the failures you have experienced are EXACTLY what you have experienced. I would suggest that you post some pictures of the TOP of your frame so those experienced with this pistol and look and see of the Ejector is properly positioned.
Here all. Looks perfectly fine to me but I'm no gunsmith.
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgsmash View Post
Here all. Looks perfectly fine to me but I'm no gunsmith.
Yeah, I think it's fine too. No way this is an ejector problem. Definitely an extraction issue. What is actually causing the extraction problem is what we're unsure of.

Sending it to S&W is the right thing to do.
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgsmash View Post
For full disclosure, I removed the thumb safety before my first trip to the range. When I removed the safety I only worked on the frame portion and took the slide completely off, so there was no damage to the extractor or anything.
#1.Did you reinstall the safety and try shooting it?
#2.Did you install the plugs that cover the holes that the safety leaves behind when removed?

I ask because those plugs also stabilize the trigger mechanism.
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Old 09-10-2017, 11:55 PM
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#2.Did you install the plugs that cover the holes that the safety leaves behind when removed?

I ask because those plugs also stabilize the trigger mechanism.
Look at the pic I put in post #34. You can clearly see how the frame plugs are not there. But I have to ask, how does this "stabilize" the trigger mechanism? Those plugs don't touch anything inside. They only fill the hole. I'm curious to hear why you think they stabilize the trigger mechanism or what the trigger mechanism has to do with a failure to extract?
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:22 AM
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I did not say the trigger mechanism would cause any issue but he removed the safety before firing it for the first time and could have caused some type of issue.
As far as the plugs go. Start at about 5:10. but what do I know. You seem to have a full grasp on the safety removal subject but I thought maybe I'd ask.
Couldn't see the plugs missing using my phone earlier today.


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Old 09-11-2017, 02:58 PM
Walt Sherrill Walt Sherrill is offline
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The OP said he was using "good Winchester brass." If that was White Box, it may not have been good brass.

Off and on, over the years, I've seen WWB ammo with quality issues (and WWB was a notorious problem for CZs (which, back then, came from the factory with a weak extractor spring -- which couldn't cope with slight trash buildup under the extractor.) Keeping the area under the extractor (in the groove in the slide) clean and junk free solved the problem, and then Wolff came up with a stronger extractor spring, and CZ later incorporated a stronger spring design into production guns -- problem solved.

Back then, the WWB extractor groove looked like this "<" rather than this "/ " and it didn't let the extractor tip grab some rims properly. I haven't shot WWB in years, so don't know if that's still an issue with that ammo.

Not all ammo is made the same, and while folks say any quality gun should shoot virtually any ammo, there is some trashy ammo out there -- especially the less expensive stuff.
.

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Old 09-12-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheapskait View Post
Is the extractor supposed to stick out like that?

I don't have a 2.0, but the extractor on my 40c is slightly recessed and doesn't stand proud of the slide. Maybe you've got a burr or some manufacturing crude under there or maybe a broken/defective/missing extractor spring.
Easy enough to check. If no obstruction/debris is found, then off to S&W...!
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThrowinRocks View Post
#1.Did you reinstall the safety and try shooting it?
#2.Did you install the plugs that cover the holes that the safety leaves behind when removed?

I ask because those plugs also stabilize the trigger mechanism.
I shot different ammo and it ran better, but I don't have the plugs yet. I sent the gun to S&W so they are looking at it. They said it could take up to a month.
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Sherrill View Post
The OP said he was using "good Winchester brass." If that was White Box, it may not have been good brass.

Off and on, over the years, I've seen WWB ammo with quality issues (and WWB was a notorious problem for CZs (which, back then, came from the factory with a weak extractor spring -- which couldn't cope with slight trash buildup under the extractor.) Keeping the area under the extractor (in the groove in the slide) clean and junk free solved the problem, and then Wolff came up with a stronger extractor spring, and CZ later incorporated a stronger spring design into production guns -- problem solved.

Back then, the WWB extractor groove looked like this "<" rather than this "/ " and it didn't let the extractor tip grab some rims properly. I haven't shot WWB in years, so don't know if that's still an issue with that ammo.

Not all ammo is made the same, and while folks say any quality gun should shoot virtually any ammo, there is some trashy ammo out there -- especially the less expensive stuff.
.
It was cheap and it was in a white box with red lettering. I have also seen the white box with black lettering and I think that was 124gr Nato spec. I was shooting the cheap 115gr winchester.
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Old 09-17-2017, 05:05 PM
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Just more food for thought here. I am pretty sure your 5" 2.0 is the gun that S&W submitted for the Army's MHS trials. That being said, I'm guessing any engineering with regards to function and reliability was based off of the 9mm NATO round. My guess is it will likely run more reliably with NATO spec ammunition than it does with the cheap 115 grain stuff. My personal recommendation when you get it back would be to run two to four hundred rounds of the 124 grain NATO stuff through it before switching back to the cheap stuff and see how that goes.
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Old Today, 09:48 AM
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From your original photo, it appears that the extractor may be stuck in the retracted position. Try removing the slide, push a round up under the extractor, and verify that it will hold the round against a force of a few pounds or against modest shaking up and down.
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Old Today, 10:30 AM
Walt Sherrill Walt Sherrill is offline
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Malfunctioning Brand new M&amp;P M2.0 5&quot; model - 9 FTEs Malfunctioning Brand new M&amp;P M2.0 5&quot; model - 9 FTEs Malfunctioning Brand new M&amp;P M2.0 5&quot; model - 9 FTEs Malfunctioning Brand new M&amp;P M2.0 5&quot; model - 9 FTEs Malfunctioning Brand new M&amp;P M2.0 5&quot; model - 9 FTEs  
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray1970
Just more food for thought here. I am pretty sure your 5" 2.0 is the gun that S&W submitted for the Army's MHS trials. That being said, I'm guessing any engineering with regards to function and reliability was based off of the 9mm NATO round. My guess is it will likely run more reliably with NATO spec ammunition than it does with the cheap 115 grain stuff. My personal recommendation when you get it back would be to run two to four hundred rounds of the 124 grain NATO stuff through it before switching back to the cheap stuff and see how that goes.
The load should have NO EFFECT on whether the extractor properly grasps and holds the case rim.

The OP could just try chambering and extracting live rounds from the loaded mag (without firing them) to see if the extractor is up to the task. And if any rounds don't extract properly, examine those case rims to see if there are any irregularities.

It really seems like an extractor issue.
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