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Old 10-17-2017, 06:55 PM
BUICKMAN BUICKMAN is offline
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Has anybody tried to clean one with an ultrasonic cleaner? If so, what were the results and is there any reason not too?
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:15 PM
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I would only put the whole gun in an ultrasonic cleaner if the whole gun had been soaked in some horrible contaminant that had to be totally removed.
Why? It will remove ALL the lubricant and the best way to relubricate would be to disassemble, dry, and carefully relube.
Totally removing all the lubricant and then spraying the entire gun with lube without disassembling makes a horrible mess and does not lube the correct internal points.
Some parts, like the striker channel, need to be clean and dry, with little or no lube.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:21 PM
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some ultra sonic cleaner fluids are specifically for guns and parts. Like the hornady one shot. it actually leaves some sort of protective layer on it. they also have corrosion inhibitors and stuff like that too. When I take my metal parts out of the bath and rinse them, the water kind of beads up and rolls off so it seems to work decently. still, I tend to break down the parts before putting them in though because they just clean better that way. unless your talking about going with an industrial type cleaner or something, I wouldn't just drop the whole gun in there without disassembly. I only use the ultra sonics for when I want to restore to almost factory condition... which isn't very often. I still have mixed results with barrels too... still have to scrub those out pretty good most of the time but my cleaner isn't super duty or anything so maybe that's why. I also haven't been messing with them for too long either, so I don't really have the process dialed yet.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:40 AM
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Thank both of you for the information. I use the ultrasonic to clean gages and it does a god job on them that is why I was asking. I do break it down when I clean it but it is hard to get it completely clean even with brushing every thing. I think I will give it a try and then lubricate all the parts. Can somebody tell me if it is a hard job to install a different trigger and what kind is the best? Thanks again for the information> Les
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:24 PM
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Thank both of you for the information. I use the ultrasonic to clean gages and it does a god job on them that is why I was asking. I do break it down when I clean it but it is hard to get it completely clean even with brushing every thing. I think I will give it a try and then lubricate all the parts. Can somebody tell me if it is a hard job to install a different trigger and what kind is the best? Thanks again for the information> Les
There are only a couple people making replacement triggers and systems for the shield. what is it you are wanting to accomplish with the change? apex tactical is most prominent, there is at least one other company making trigger shoes if its just that you don't like the hinged plastic trigger... I think its Hyve. there's looks like it is almost the same shape as stock but aluminum and with a blade safety. Apex stuff is much more engineered can accomplish a broader range of changes depending on exactly what you're looking for.
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Old 10-26-2017, 06:23 PM
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I am looking for a smoother trigger pull. Mine seems a little rough almost like it has some grit in it.
Thank you, les
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Old 10-26-2017, 08:57 PM
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I am looking for a smoother trigger pull. Mine seems a little rough almost like it has some grit in it.
Thank you, les
for a smoother pull, you're gonna be into either detail stripping the gun and doing a good polish job on certain points of the factory parts, or getting one of the apex parts kits. the trigger shoe itself doesn't have anything to do with the grit you're feeling. you can get apex kits with or without the trigger shoe. they are known as "duty\carry" kits.

all depends on how far you feel like going. The most common cause of the grit is from how the trigger bar interfaces the striker block. if you pull out the striker block and stone it to a more dome shape and polish it up and then hone and polish the trigger bar, the grit will go bye bye. Only problem for a lot of people is that you have to pull the rear sight off to remove the striker block. if thats not a big deal for you, then you could just go that route. If I'm not already putting in the apex parts, I'll take out my striker blocks and lightly chuck them into a cordless drill, make sure its relatively centered, and use the drill to spin it while using some kind of grit to hone it down to more of a dome shape. then dremel felt wheel with flitz or polishing compound.

S&W's manufacturing of their trigger bars is a weak point of a lot of these guns. Many of them are left with tool marks or rough edges contributing to that gritty uptake.

if you're fine with the way the trigger breaks, there's no real reason to do the whole apex kit with the sear and springs... you could just drop in their USB (ultimate striker block) if you don't wanna go the honing\polishing route.

There are some pretty good vids out there on doing all these types of "upgrades". you can just hit up youtube and see if its something you wanna mess with. Even if its a video on a full sized gun, the process on the shield is almost identical.
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Old 10-26-2017, 11:24 PM
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Thanks again for the information. I will take a look on Youtube and see what I want to do. les
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