Have model #187021. S&W says pull=6.5 pounds...not bad as is. How best to reduce pull on this model? Have a gunsmith "smooth" action OR install Apex "kit"? If so, which numbered kit? Have a local & highly recommended gunsmith for work. Any assistance appreciated. Thanks in advance?

Why not ask the gunsmith? That way he/she'll take ownership of the results.

Disassembly and Reassembly is easy, so if you have a few simple tools and a couple hours, you could do this DIY 'trigger job'.
S&W M&P Trigger Job

If that doesn't do it for you, just swapping the Sear for an Apex 'fully machined Sear' reduce the pull quite a bit.

I did the full Apex kit minus the trigger return spring. The whole kit really smoothed out the action and with a few tools was very easy to install. The Apex trigger return spring was too heavy for my taste but the reset was better. With the stock spring the reset isn’t as good but the pull is lighter and feels better to me.

All you need is an $40 Apex sear installed to get you down near the 4-4.5# mark. ( IT will be crisper too.). It's an easy self install if you have basic mechanical skills.
Search here.Lots written on this topic.

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Dave

Before you do anything, run several hundred rounds/dryfire cycles through the gun to get you and the trigger broken in. Then ask yourself if it still needs anything.

Also, what are your intended uses for the gun? It being a Shield, I expect carry/potential defensive use is on the list. If that's the case, you might be better off leaving it alone. You generally don't need to shoot itty-bitty groups for that usage. And, you can learn to do exactly that with practice.

The guy is asking how to lighten trigger pull

Not for internet legal advice...

It never fails

You truly dont need to be a gunsmith to do the M&P trigger job yourself.......... its easy

Reread my post. I wasn't giving legal advice. I was providing perspective based upon experience to someone with an unknown experience/training level. I spent decades as a LE firearms instructor. You don't need/want breathe on it triggers on carry/defensive firearms.

The OP, and you can do what you want, they're your toys. But seeking hardware solutions to software (lack of training) problems isn't really the way to go.

I improved my Shield trigger with the Apex sear. Cost me $40 bucks

This worked for me. The Apex sear alone reduced the trigger pull from 6½ lbs. to 4½ lbs.

Likewise ^^^^^^

Sear alone and went from the same 6.5 to 4.5

If I want to lighten my trigger and ask how
I don't need your EXPERT opinions on why I should not
I'm not even going to list my credentials....because they and yours are not relevant on how to lighten trigger pull.
I do not have a big head or know it all attitude.

I don't know, I thought it was good advice. My trigger felt much better after running a lot of ammo through it. After 8,000+ rounds, I am not sure I would like a lighter trigger. Okay, I take that back, I don't want a lighter trigger. My trigger got nice and smooth fairly quickly. In contrast, an old revolver I have, one that had the action smoothed when I bought it, is now too smooth and light, and I have had a second round fire off due to recoil causing the trigger to be depressed a second time. That revolver has many, many thousands of round through it, and will be worked on soon.

So my advice would be the same, if the OP has not shot the gun much, I would shoot it a while before lightening the trigger. Then if the trigger still seems too heavy, modify it. Of course if the OP just wants to modify the gun, go for it.

Same here, trigger does start to get better after 2000/3000 rounds and continues to get better. Now at 9000+...........works for me. Would not think of replacing it.

I'd be more than a little interested at what you do/did to keep that revolver from double tapping automatically. Just out of curiosity what make/model revolver is it?

8000 rounds at approx 200 per 1000 =almost 1500.00 bucks.

So you're saying you spent 1500.00 bucks to get a smooth trigger .

Ok then.

A revolver can't double tap or hammer follow....ok then.

I haven't been shooting it much lately. With my normal reloads it isn't a problem, but with hotter loads, like +P I experienced it.

It is a Taurus Model 85 I bought new in 1986. It has many, many thousands of rounds through it. A few Summers I was running at least 500 rounds a week through it, sometimes more. I lived about a mile from the range and had nothing to do but reload and shoot. It have me absolutely no problems until last year, and it isn't a big problem, and only happened once or twice, and only with hot ammo, but I will be sending it in to be worked over at some point.

Uhm...sure it can, it is double action, and the action was able to cycle again as I was resetting after the recoil of some hot ammo. The action got light enough for it to happen. It has a hell of a lot of ammo through it. It needs serviced, and will be soon.

No, it didn't take 8000 rounds to smooth out the trigger. It was smooth after only a thousand or so. SO about $200, and I would rather spend money on ammo, but that is just me, with that $200 I get good practice in. I see nothing wrong with someone putting in a trigger, but it is not what I would do as soon as I bought a gun. I would rather shoot it a while, but again, that is just me.

There is nothing wrong with modifying a gun if you want. This is a hobby for most of us. For a defensive gun though, I don't really want a really light trigger, just a smooth one. Of course after shooting it a while, if it doesn't smooth out. I would be inclined to put in an Apex, or another trigger. I just know that I shoot a lot, so I don't want the combination of shooting a lot, and a lighter trigger to make it lighter than I want for a defensive gun.

Just polishing the sear improves a great bit. I did that initially but installed an Apex sear. Big difference in reset plus the hardened steel gives a crisp feel. It dropped the trigger pull significantly. So much that I added a heavier trigger return spring to increase the pull weight a bit.

I did the same. Polished and APEX.....about 3lbs 10oz. Referenced video on trigger job is good. I LOVE the trigger now. When you do the work yourself with good results, you "take ownership" of your own gun. I believe that's as important as reducing the pull............YMMV

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CERAKOTE Svcs.
Class 01 FFL

Because they are greedy and ridiculously expensive. That's why.

Uh, "...as I was resetting after the recoil..." certainly sounds to me as if some force was being applied to the trigger by the trigger finger...?

This was a revolver, right?

Cheers!

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Release the Kraken

Start at the front and work to the back….

I’d sand smooth and polish the trigger bar where it interfaces with the striker safety plunger.

What’s the point of tweaking the last thing in line (sear) when everything else in front of may need work?

Just pointing out this thread is from 2018.

Let's check back in four years.

Why do you want to do this? Isn't the Shield a small gun made for self defense? It's not really an "accurate" range gun...it's more of a carry gun that you need to be 100% reliable and who cares if it's not a bullseye gun.

What I've found in 35 years of messing with guns is that for the ones you bet your life on, you should NOT monkey with the trigger.

The OEM trigger group is designed to be 100% reliable. Learn to shoot it well instead of trying to change it out with miniscule benefits and large potential negatives.

And besides, the horse is dead.

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I need ammo, not a ride.

Noooooo!!! Get up, Dobbin, you can do it!

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Release the Kraken

We buried it at the Pet Cemetery. It just keeps coming back for more......

I did the trigger job that robzguns posted on my full size M&P, worked great $0 cost. If you Google search M&P trigger job you can also find a video that was very helpful. I am sorry i didnot save the video. Good Luck.