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Smith & Wesson M&P Pistols All Variants of the Smith & Wesson M&P Auto Pistols


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  #51  
Old 07-28-2018, 10:57 PM
00 buck 00 buck is offline
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Originally Posted by wnderr View Post
I clean and oil with G96, and use a synthetic grease (Super Lube) which is more like a heavy oil for the spots the manual calls for a drop of oil. Mostly, my guns "look" dry, except for those tiny little spots that got the grease. And, I really mean tiny!
G96 is good stuff

Last edited by 00 buck; 08-02-2018 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NewToGuns17 View Post
I do see that. Who reads the manual! Just kidding lol, I read the parts I needed.
Notice the manual says to use GUN OIL......not motor oil
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  #53  
Old 07-29-2018, 12:18 AM
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Isn't cleaning and lubricating really part of loving a gun? Any oil is better than no oil!
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Old 07-29-2018, 12:35 AM
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There is a myth that all cops love guns and are good shooters and take care of their sidearms. That's is pure myth! When I was promoted to Captain of the Armory, the first thing I did was rewrite our sidearm policy as follows!

Every officer had to send his or her issue weapon to the armory once a month for maintenance on their off day. They carried either a Glock 17, 19 or a 26 9 mm department issued weapon. The armorers would check unload and cleared status and simply place the entire weapon in a rack that was submerged into a 55 gallon drum that was 50% water and 50% Simple Green and soaked for over 4 hours. Then the weapons were disassembled to field stripping condition pursuant to manufacturing guidelines. There were blown dry with compressed air and lubed with Mobile 1 10W50 synthetic motor oil pursuant to manufacturer specifications and reassembled.

In the 5 years that I was over the armory, we never had a single firearm failure in a 30 plus member department and my policy is still in place.
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by eahicks View Post
Man, does no one use Hoppe’s products anymore? I still use many, and also some of Otis products, mainly the spray dry lube. Have no issues with any of them.


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I use it, but you have to be careful where to use it nowadays. The new S&W bluing will turn violet when exposed to Hoppes 9 (or any product with ammonia) and their 'Elite' product is recommended for use on 'plastic' guns.

I'm not sure just why but I like 'Outers' cleaner and oil. Probably because the cleaner is just plain old fashioned SOLVENT.

And I just like the oil for no particular reason.

Several guns that I own have specific instructions to put one drop of oil on certain points on the gun. It won't 'hurt' a gun to slather it on, but it's not necessary when judicious use is what is called for.

Again, I say that if a gun NEEDS to be run wet to function well, it needs a gunsmith more than it does lubrication.
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Old 07-29-2018, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rastoff View Post
I've used Frog Lube a lot and am intimately familiar with its application.

How long does it last? Well, that's a loaded question. That will depend on use of course. If you're storing a gun, it will last many years. Just warm it up (place it in the sun) and wipe it all over. It will protect from rust as good or better than most other products.

When shooting, I've gone as far as 1,000 rounds without adding more and without loss of lubrication. How do I know? Because I could still see it on the gun.

Is it better than Hoppes? Better is an ambiguous term. Still, I like it better for two reasons. First, it's easier to clean up. Since it's non toxic, I don't worry about getting it on anything. My hands don't react to it at all and it smells good. The wife doesn't complain. Happy wife, happy life. That should be enough.

Secondly, it doesn't attract dirt or get all over your stuff. If applied properly, you stay clean too. Oil can get on things and stain them or ruin them. Frog Lube will not drip or run where it's not wanted.

To apply is easy. Start, by warming your gun with a hair dryer or just setting it in the sun for a while. Then liberally apply Frog Lube to anywhere you think you need lube. Let sit for 5 minutes. Now take a rag and wipe everything off that you can see. This sounds counter intuitive, but it really does work. You've left behind a very thin film of lube that is plenty. More than that can actually be too much for some guns.

After shooting you'll find your gun is much easier to clean. Use the liquid stuff and just put it on like normal, but remember to let it sit for 5 minutes or so and wipe it off. Seriously, it should seem like your not using enough. I can tell you that after many thousands of rounds, I have perfect confidence in Frog Lube and the method of application I just described.
I started using FL when I started shooting M&P's, applied as Rastoff described I've gotten exceptional service from it. Well over 200 K rounds distributed between 4 M&Ps, I don't use the M&Ps very much anymore (but they're corrosion free in the safe). My STI didn't much like FL, it likes to run wet (like most 1911 designs so I use Brian Enos Slide Glide light on the rails and Mobil 1 0W20 on the rest of the gun. No failures in competition yet and I'm in my 3rd year with that gun. I'm not entirely convinced that the brand of lube matters, personally I think a M&P would function on spit. A 1911, not so much. Just oil them and forget it, lube it till it drips and then wipe off the excess.
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:56 AM
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I carry my 2.0 compact everyday, and my sweat is like acid at times.

Inside the gun gets Froglube on the weekends, outside gets CLP everyday.
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:01 AM
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My only rule besides no motor oil is no non toxic or biodegradable oils
They all gum up
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by half-lug View Post
I carry my 2.0 compact everyday, and my sweat is like acid at times.

Inside the gun gets Froglube on the weekends, outside gets CLP everyday.
Be careful, petroleum based CLP acts like a solvent on Froglube. If it was me (just a suggestion) I'd run Froglube 100%, it has great corrosion protection.
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NewToGuns17 View Post
How many of you lube all the points the manual says? A drop or a light coating? None? I tend to run mine somewhat dry, it doesn't pick up as much ****.
Try to run your car engine's dry. See if it likes it.
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  #61  
Old 07-29-2018, 10:52 AM
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Hey guys, how many of you have ever seen a gun oil refinery? Me neither, because there are no such things. When you are spending big$$$ for a 4 oz bottle of oil you are falling for the infamous "snake oil con" all over again!

Mobile One is the best you can buy and is a synthetic formulation to not pick up and hold carbon. That's why it works so well in automobile engines which is a very high carbon environment. Oil never wears out it only get dirty!

Grease is just oil with wax or paraffin added it to it to make it thicker so it stay put.

When you clean a gun barrel you are just putting a very thin oil in it, letting stay in there a while and then wiping it out with a patch after the oil has soaked up the loose carbon in the barrel. That's that black stuff you see on a dirty patch. Soap and water will do the same thing and that was how firearms were cleaned in the old days and even up to the use of corrosive primer for cartridge ammunition used in early 1911 pistols during WWI.

It is a proven fact that oil reduces friction and that's all it does, but it collects dirt in the process. In Vietnam we used diesel fuel and gasoline to clean our weapons and motor oil on the 1911 junk and wheel bearing grease on the bolt carrier groups of the M-16 rifles.

Gaston Glock discovered that nickel and polymer have a natural lubricity when rubbed against each other. The only problem was that nickel can not adhere to steel. Smith & Wesson discovered that if you coated steel with copper that nickel will adhere to the copper. That's why Glock internals are copper and then nickel plated. This makes the internal self lubricating. S&W even got sued when they copied this process with the Sigma Series.

I am sure just about everybody has smelled Hopps # 9. That distinctive smell is to cover up and mask the smell of kerosene and ammonia in the formulation. Here's the kicker, ammonia eats and destroys copper! So you never want to use Hopps on a Glock or a nickel plated gun! Just a little experience I have learned in my 70 plus years on this planet!
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Old 07-29-2018, 12:16 PM
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Does your gun have an oil pump constantly flushing it like the engine does ?
Only my 1911 junkers need oil pumps!
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  #63  
Old 07-29-2018, 06:56 PM
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Most of the gun oils Ballistol, Hoppe's, CLP, etc. are mineral oil based. Each adds an alcohol a petroleum alkaline (kerosene, Acetone) and a scent or coloring ingredient.

Frog lube is coconut oil based and adds non petroleum or non toxic mint flavored ingredients. Its a very low calorie choice.

Synthetic motor oils are petroleum based and blended with mineral oil and other petroleum based additives.

Which is the best? Who knows. If I had little ones at home Frog lube would be a good choice. Eat the whole tube, it just makes you poop weird.
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:58 PM
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There is no such thing as a gun oil refinery! If you want to pay $10.00 for 4 ounces of oil go right ahead. I am still on my first .90 quart on Mobile One that is now 20 years old! To eat your own, as they say LOL!
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  #65  
Old 07-30-2018, 11:10 AM
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I agree with RC - if you keep your stuff clean and oiled, oil is oil!

I'll not get into the molecular level, and how oil lubricates and sacrifices itself. Oil can and does break down, with use. That is one of it's functions. The other being collecting impurities, and keeping them in suspension so they can't harm anything.

When oil "breaks down" all of the molecules have been squeezed flat, and are no longer capable of lubrication/sacrifice. I doubt you will ever see that in gun use with even the barest amount of cleaning/maintenance/lubrication!

If anyone thinks the newer synthetic motor oils are not up to the task of standing up to heat, and staying consistent under all circumstances - you better do your due diligence.

My "gun oil" comes out of leftover "empty" Pennzoil Ultra bottles. It's really good stuff! The best part (not considering performance) is that it is "free!"
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Old 08-01-2018, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Retired Cop View Post
How many of you gentlemen have ever seen a " Gun Oil Refinery " ?????

A quart can of automobile automatic transmission has lasted me for over 20 years now. I have never seen a transmission with rusted parts in it either......just saying!

By the way, transmissions work from 40 below zero to over 200 degrees also.
my only real problem with atf is the stuff stinks.
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jakebrake View Post
my only real problem with atf is the stuff stinks.
Have you ever smelled some of that stuff that goes for $8 to $12 an ounce????? :



Try some 5 W 40 Mobile One see if you find it more smell friendly Try Marvel Mystery Oil, my wife loves the smell of it
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired Cop View Post
Have you ever smelled some of that stuff that goes for $8 to $12 an ounce????? :



Try some 5 W 40 Mobile One see if you find it more smell friendly Try Marvel Mystery Oil, my wife loves the smell of it
nope. 0w20 has almost no smell.

1911s, m&ps, pump shotguns, ar platform … no problems.
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:52 PM
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Dry.

So far I am the only responding to this thread that runs a dry pistol.........

- Preston
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Retired Cop View Post
Try Marvel Mystery Oil, my wife loves the smell of it
Hey, let's keep the discussion on firearms...this is a family forum.
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:05 PM
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Default Lube, do you or don't you?

Nope!!! Not gonna do it...nope not me just gonna move on to the next thread
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ScaryWoody View Post
I switched to 10w30. An engine sees more friction in 5 minutes than a firearm in 1000 rounds. No smell with synthetics. Cost is $6 ish per bottle which last forever.
Mobil 1 0w-40.
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Old 08-02-2018, 10:18 AM
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Frog Lube is excellent if you can wipe it all off after applying it and after cleaning the firearm after shooting it. I noticed less wear with Frog Lube than any lube I've used. That's fine for and AR15 because you can completely strip the rifle down except maybe for the gas rings. But to completely disassemble an M&P pistol or a Walther PPQ? No thanks. The key to Frog Lube is to apply it to warm parts and completely remove it with the microfiber cloth. Other than that' it's a glob fest. I say that as a fan. I used to take my M&P pistols completely apart when cleaning them with Frog Lube. PITA. I still use it on my AR and bolt action rifles.
AA
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Old 08-03-2018, 03:58 AM
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After every range practice I field strip my Shield.

Use nylon brush to scrub and wipes and q-tips dipped in Ed's Red to go over every field stripped part including inside barrel.

Use dry wipes and cleaning rag to thoroughly wipe down again.

I do not drop oil on parts but use oil on q-tip and wipe those metal surfaces again and also the slide channels.

Final step, use oily rag to wipe surface of pistol and then throughly wipe surface with dry cleaning rag.

Have done this on every 1911 and polymer pistol owned for many years.

Never had a single rust or deterioration problem using this procedure.
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Old 08-03-2018, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by NewToGuns17 View Post
I do see that. Who reads the manual! Just kidding lol, I read the parts I needed.
+1
I just skip to the important parts I want to read and need to know....
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Old 08-03-2018, 09:50 AM
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I go a step farther than the book. After every five or so normal cleanings, I use Hoppes #9 mixed with some powder solvent to soak those hard to reach areas, trigger pivot, sear etc. I then use compressed air to blow out those areas which cleans out any accumulated dirt and powder residue. Afterward I follow up with lubing all the contact points with Klotz Techniplate 2 stroke oil.
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