APEX Trigger vs 2.0

[texastigerr]

I have a M&P Shield. I am considering adding night sights and the APEX Trigger. Does anyone know how the Apex compares to the 2.0 or Performance Trigger?

[bsmiley]

Yes, the Apex duty kit makes the trigger more crisp, with less take up and over travel.

[Deadeye Dick]

Originally Posted by bsmiley

Yes, the Apex duty kit makes the trigger more crisp, with less take up and over travel.

I thought the 2.0 addressed these issues? If it were me I would hold off on the Apex trigger until I had shot it a bunch (1k rounds or more) to see how it breaks in before I made any decision on swapping triggers. Shooting an extra hundred bucks worth of ammo will most likely do more to improve your shooting than an Apex trigger anyway.

[angryelf22]

Originally Posted by Deadeye Dick

I thought the 2.0 addressed these issues? If it were me I would hold off on the Apex trigger until I had shot it a bunch (1k rounds or more) to see how it breaks in before I made any decision on swapping triggers. Shooting an extra hundred bucks worth of ammo will most likely do more to improve your shooting than an Apex trigger anyway.

It did, but the trigger goes from “better” to “amazing” by adding the Apex kit. Some people like the stock 2.0 trigger and Ill admit it wasn’t bad, but I still put the Apex in both of mine mine because I prefer the solid trigger shoe and I wanted to get the best trigger action possible.

[CB3]

The mass manufactured and assembled 2.0 trigger is better than the 1.0 trigger. The Apex triggers for each model are much better than any factory trigger.

Many people are satisfied with and shoot factory triggers well. Most who have also shot Apex triggers prefer them. Be careful though, Apex can turn you into an addicted trigger snob. But it’s actually a good thing.

It is easier to shoot an Apex trigger accurately and quickly because of their design and manufacturing. They push the envelope. Stock triggers do not.

[DBasye1]

Or........ save yourself $$ and do the burwell DIY trigger job

VERY easy. DOES NOT REQUIRE BEING A GUNSMITH

Improves the trigger........

1 hour or less...........

[CB3]

The Burwell DIY trigger job is really worthwhile to do to any new factory trigger. You polish metal mating surfaces. The trigger system will immediately become smoother and pull weight can be lightened by the reduction in friction by 1/2 pound. Definitely recommended.

However, it does not change anything other than quickly reducing friction. This would happen anyway after hundreds of firing cycles.

Apex has actually designed replacement parts with different dimensions and springs that typically (depending on which kit you buy) will:
Shorten take up
Shorten break
Allow trigger pull weight to be adjusted with different springs
Shorten over travel
Shorten reset
Make everything very smooth

You get what you pay for. Some folks just do not need such an enhanced trigger, especially considering adding 25% or more to the cost of the gun. For close range blasting practice and personal defense, (polished) factory triggers get the job done fine.

It’s like having a nice performance car and running factory tires. They work. Replace with quieter, better handling, high speed performance tires and the joy in your ride, as well as performance, increases.

[photoman]

I recently installed the Apex parts into a friend's full size 2.0 and was pleasantly surprised to see how much of a difference it made. The 2.0 trigger is good but MUCH better with the Apex parts. The striker block parts made a really big difference.

[Telecaster]

My 2.0C could stand to be smoother, but the other items in the “improvement list” I don’t feel the need for. It probably has 400-500 rounds through it but hasn’t been cleaned yet. A cleaning might help. I would expect after 400 rounds it would be well broken in.

[SW CQB 45]

I just installed a duty kit on a 2.0 Compact.

I initially changed all springs to Apex and the press was a very smooth but heavy and crisp 7lbs break.

I put the factory trigger spring back in and took the break down to a very clean 4 lbs 12 oz average.

Since this gun might be used for duty purposes, I want a min of 5 lbs. I plan to put the factory sear plunger spring and factory firing pin safety plunger spring to see if it will take me over 5 lbs.

I also installed the Apex poly trigger and the overall feel of the action improved greatly. I did not want to spend the extra coin, but after install....it was worth it.

The trigger installed was easy. I had to do a little fighting with the trigger spring to get everything lined up. My Apex slave pin was just a tad to short and the spring would slip off because I did not have everything lined up. After 3 tries, I finally figured out that the ambi slide stop needed to be pushed and held forward just a tad. You know what the say...4th time..... beer time.



I am not a fan of 3 dot sights. I prefer Frank Proctor stuff. I was able to remove the factory rear and install the FP rear. I also needed to make some filler slide plates as the front sight is tight. It will be replaced with a F/O

[cardguy]

Replace the firing pin plunger from Apex first and see the difference.

[CB3]

Originally Posted by cardguy

Replace the firing pin plunger from Apex first and see the difference.

Good partial upgrade. Will somewhat smooth trigger pull and potentially lighten it a little. It is especially helpful with the Burwell trigger polishing job linked to above.

Installing just the Apex striker block (safety plunger) can also affect timing somewhat because of a different (better) contact surface with the trigger bar. Be prepared to do minute adjustments to the “candy cane” loop on the trigger bar, per Apex instructions/YouTube videos.

However, the Apex triggers and sears actually change trigger pull characteristics, as noted above. Putting in just one Apex part is like putting just two high performance tires on your sports car.