Gents:
I have a 9mm shield with the Apex trigger kit and a 5 lb trigger pull.

When I dry fire it the front sight jumps slightly left in the rear sight notch when I pull the trigger. This does not happen when I dry fire a 1911 or my Ruger lcp so I do not think it is the way I pull the trigger.

Is there something inherent in the S&W striker fire system that causes this??

Mark

Are you able to move the sight by hand?
I’m no expert but I wouldn’t think enough energy is created to move the sight from dry firing.



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You need to re-think the cause of what you are seeing because you ARE pulling the pistol left at the end of your trigger stroke. BTW, assuming you meant 1911 instead of 1922 there is a VAST difference between a Single Action trigger as used in a 1911 and a Striker trigger in your M&P Shield. In simple terms there is a difference of as much as 1/2 inch between the total stroke length and your Shield trigger probably breaks a LOT closer to the grip frame than the 1911. Both of which will cause someone used to only shooting with single action triggers to pull left.

Tip, get yourself a used revolver such as the S&W model 10. Then start practicing with this for your dry firing USING SNAP CAPS. With practice you will find that your pulling left issue has been cured and you will also find that you can now shoot well with any type of trigger made, even the 13 lbs. two stage trigger on an antique Mosin Nagent rifle. Quite simply a revolver is the finest "trigger job" you will ever shoot because it makes you totally independent of any need for a custom trigger.

Note, after about 1500 strikes the rims will pop off the snap caps and that is normal AND a real world demonstration of the value of a snap cap. Because they absorb forces that would otherwise be transferred to the hammer or struck components.

Oh the pistol goes left when you dry fire.


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It's probably you. I have a couple of similar sized guns and shoot them all better than I shoot the Shield. When I first got it, I thought it was the gun, too. What helped me was putting in an Apex trigger shoe (no kit) and putting on a grip sleeve. My hands are too big for that thin slim grip and it affected my trigger pull. The combination has helped me pull the trigger straight back without moving the gun.

I have the same setup. Get your hands on position, hold the gun from moving and pull back on the trigger. How much movement are we talking. A hair or a finger.

Can you show your trigger shoe? I didn't know Apex made them as well.

Hey is this a common thing? I'm noticing that dry firing a Glock 19 and 26 they do not move at all. My M&P 2.0C kicks to the left a little...

I must need a new keyboard...I notice some words in my posts are misspelled.....


Kicking to the side is caused by the shooter putting sideways pressure on the trigger of a handgun. The cure is to grip the gun correctly and PRESS the trigger straight back

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Common problem that many shooters experience. Proper trigger management with practice will eliminate shooting to the weak side. Here's a good tutorial for instance. Want to Be An Accurate Handgunner? Practice Good Trigger Management - Guns for Beginners - The Truth About Guns

Usually, it IS the shooter. The Shield's grip differs from a 1911, G19, G26 and other larger 1911s and Double-Stacks.
The Shield's grip is thinner than that of the G19 and G26. The distance from the trigger to the Back Strap is shorter than that of the 1911 and Double-Stack Glocks... and more differences.

These differences change which part of the trigger finger naturally rests on the Shield's trigger face and can effect achieving a straight rearward trigger pull, without twisting the pistol at the last fraction of a second.

While dry firing, you need to experiment with which part of the trigger finger DOES achieve a straight rearward press, without twisting the pistol.

Yeah, I got the shoe on sale at Brownell's. I didn't need the whole kit because I actually thought my Shield had a good trigger out of the box, but the shoe helped with my pull. The Hogue also helped the thin grip issue. However, the beavertail on it tends to have my thumb knuckle in an awkward position. Considering changing it to a non-beavertail version. The Shield is an interesting combination of length, trigger reach, and width.

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I agree. You got the flat faced trigger. Honestly, the kit is worth the money. I took my grandfather's shield side Alone and put it on mine and the striker block alone made the difference. I have the entire kit in my gun but with his slide on it made the gun feel stock again. With my slide in his gun it smoothed it right out. So I would think about that kit or at least the block. Also, a trigger shoe is a flat piece of usually machined steel that attaches to a trigger to make it wider. You bought a trigger. Target shooters usually use a shoe. Just trying to educate

Yeah, I thought about the kit, but didn't want to monkey around with my carry gun too much. Just changing the trigger made a load of difference. I wouldn't want the trigger any lighter than it already is. Yeah, I know it's a trigger, but "shoe" gets stuck in my brain. I also say "clip" instead of "magazine" for whatever reason (I do have one gun that does take clips though).

I wouldn't say it gets "lighter". The overall pressure the trigger takes to go backwards is heavier than stock but more smooth. It just takes less pressure overall to complete the process. If that makes any sense...

Yes, what other people have said can make sight move. However, I have an M and P all Apex parts and a red dot. I noticed the same thing when I dry fire. I’m not inducing a movement in the gun, but mine has some side play in the slide. When the striker falls/sear disengages it was changing the position on the slide/sight in relation to my eyes, and target focus.

To confirm this I put the frame of the gun in a vise and sure enough it was “jumping” when the striker was released. I also noticed on my gun, if I took the play out by pushing the slide to one side, No movement. When I push it all the way to the opposite, the sight would jump.

Not sure if this is what you were experiencing as well. Easy fix, put just the frame in a vise and pull the trigger and see if it happens. If it does, same situation I was having. It it does not, work on grip and trigger press.

Too much finger on the trigger! Guns don't make shooters, shooters make guns. Comparing anything to the military junked 1911 is like comparing the smell of different outhouses!

The 1911 was designed to kill horses in 1911 during WWI and that's all it is good for. John Moses Browning crowning achievements were the 1903 .32 ACP auto feeder pocket pistol, the .380 9x17 Browning auto loader and the Browning Hi Power 9x19, 9mm high capacity auto loader pistol.

Wow...you really don’t like 1911’s do you. Lots of people would disagree with that. Not trying to get into an argument about it though. People all have their opinions and are fee to have them. Why the USA is great.

As far as JMB, also forgetting the M2 50cal, it’s predecessor the M1919, A5 shotgun, single shots, lever action. His list goes quite longer than you listed.

While both sides are argued here, I agree with both sides to some extent. My Shield(s) are the only pistols that jump when dry fired, other striker fired pistols don't at all. Glocks, Sigs, HK.

While it's not a good sign during dry fire, I shoot my Shield pretty damn well in live fire so the sight jumping in dry fire doesn't bother me anymore.

I have the same set up you do. Apex duty/carry kit but use all the S&W springs. Has a 5.5 pound SMOOTH trigger pull. With the Apex springs the trigger was not smooth but a little jerky.
As stated above,the grip is thinner than the guns you mentioned.
I’ll agree that it IS your grip and trigger pull (finger position on trigger). You need a firm grip and finger MUST come straight back. Some put a rubber sleeve or grip tape to fill out the grip more.
You can practice finger pull without a gun. Imagine a gun in hand and pull the trigger. NO mussle in the hand should move as the trigger finger comes straight back.
Dry fire and get finger on trigger and squeeze. (The pad of your finger should be on the trigger not the finger joint).
A little practice and you should overcome the pulling to left issue.
Look at my avatar. Group shot at 7 yards all in X ring.

Be SAFE and shoot often!

Pretty common problem with the Shields,esp the earlier ones. If I'm actually shooting with sights I have to use a thumb forward grip with my support hand if shooting at distance.One reason I textured the forward flats,easier to keep some thumb pressure on to correct the problem.

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fast forward to about 3:30 on this video.

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The OP. is talking about the slide moving separately from the frame when he pulls the trigger. Not the WHOLE GUN MOVING SO TRIGGER CONTROL HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT.

I would say take your striker out & see how the face is, also the sear face where they meet. I polished mine & the striker face was very slanted on the face. I had to make it square because only a very small portion was riding on the sear. I marked it with a marker & dry fired a bunch of times to see where the contact was.

Also your slide might only do this with no loaded mag in it, load the mag. none in the chamber & see if it still moves.

How much does the slide move left to right approximately. ?

Fun to follow this discussion!

I've been sitting at my keyboard with my Shield 9 v1 bone stock, first pulling the trigger, then racking the slide and pulling the trigger, mag in, mag out.

My front sight doesn't move. My slide doesn't move. There is a "click" and the front sight just sits there on-target. I admit I am deliberately trying to get it not to move. If I am sloppy I get a left-pull from the front sight.

My skill level is low-average. I can shoot well at 7 yards but not compared to my son who a LEO.
+++

I bought one of the last of the v1 Shield 9's just before the 2.0's came out so it had all the latest iterations. Could this left-pull problem the OP is experiencing be from an Shield 9 manufactured earlier year than my 2017 version?

All guns, especially semis, hold differently. The differences in ergonomics between any two or three is pretty huge.

My problem has been that I shoot a lot of different pistols, consequently never get really good with any one of them. I'm trying though. I see people on You tube picking up and drilling the target with it.

I shot better before I started with so many guns. I did some dry fire tonight and adjusted my grip and at the range a few days ago I proved from a bench that my third gens problems aren't with the gun. I think I"m going to find that to be true for all of my guns.

One thing I've noticed, is that I can take movies of pulling the trigger and it looks ok, but with a long DA pull my left hand interferes with my trigger finger. I moved my left hand slightly more into a 'cupping' position and it doesn't interfere now. The smaller the gun, the more pronounced this is.

Can't wait to try it at the range.

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Basically it’s like a type writer. You pull the trigger during dry tire and it feels like the rear sight shifts to the right slightly. I can get my gun to do it and I can also get it not to. It seems to have something to do with the placement of your support hand. Basically if I apply pressure from the palm of my support hand directly to the take down lever when gripping it I get no rear sight jump but if my grip is off even a little I get the rear sight jump. This is something I can’t replicate on the 15 handguns I own.

I had the same issue and found that tightening my pinky on the 13 rd mag when dry firing was causing it to go left. Adjusted my grip to concentrate on middle and ring finger strength and not squeeze the pinky hard and magically the front sight stopped pulling left. YMMV.

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This thread was started four years ago. The OP has probably solved his problem by now.

uggg yep mine too but one does it quite a bit more than the other one. I have two MP 2.0 compact and the problem follows the frame and not the slide. This tells me the frame rails on the one that jumps a lot is a hair narrower than the other one. It definitely is throwing my shots to the left of aim.

I guess a few simple solutions is one sell the pistol and buy a gun that does not do that. or move the slide that has my RMR over to the other frame which locks up a bit tighter and does not jump as much

I guess MP didn't design this pistol with this to be anything but only combat accurate.I can probably drift my sights to compensate.

unfortunately it seems to be a common issue. The irksome part none of my other pistols do this except the MP. My 2.0 compact I have two of them and one does it much worse than the other. The one that has more slop, where the rear striker plate as you dry fire, you can see that go right causing my shots to go left. My red dot confirms the slop in slide.Some say it does not affect accuracy I am saying it sure does as at 50 ft, using an 8x10inch target, it is printing way left, I got maybe a 1.5" on the left edge where it is printing. I guess on a man size target that is OK but considering my other pistols don't do this makes me regret this purchase.