recent shield 2.0 in .45. I decided not to invest in the whole trigger deal seemed expensive and went and bought the apex enhancement trigger from midway. I was quoted 80 for installing the trigger plus the spings etc and so I bought just the trigger. The same gunsmith quoted me the same 80 bucks? I called around and was told it was a 45 minute job and the range of fees were 45 to 80 bucks. I was going to do it myself I have installed geissle triggers and comfortable in taking my guns apart but I do not have a vise ( do have punches and brass hammer though)which by the time you add the vise and the conversion to smooth vise grip ends up costing more then 50 bucks. I am not opposed to the smiths making a living but it does not seem that complicated. I will probably just go with the least quote and be done with it but I am curious what you have paid

Welcome to the forum, shotgunda

You don't need a vise, just a couple small punches, brass hammer for light taps on the pin, and a block to rest the frame on.
45 minutes sounds way too long even for installing the whole kit.
If the gunsmith is at all familiar with the process just the trigger would only take 10 minutes at most.

I could see just doing the trigger if you dislike the factory hinged trigger, or wanted to replace the plastic trigger with a metal one.
But the Apex sear, sear spring and striker block will give you a better trigger pull more so than replacing the trigger.
The hardest part for me was the locking block pin pushing out the slave pin and grabbing the loop on the trigger return spring on it's way through the frame.
Watch the Apex videos, and do it yourself, it's easy.

__________________
U. S. Army Veteran

The full Apex kit includes a new striker block. You need to remove the rear sight to access, hence the vice. Just the trigger, no vice needed.

The gunsmith also carries liability and warranty which reflect in their pricing. Nothing wrong with calling around a bit. As you've seen pricing varies. Make sure you pick one experienced with the Apex part.

thanks sandog that is the info I wanted. I want the trigger for the tactile feel I do not like the hinge very much. Even after a 100 rnds and a lot of dry fire the movement is getting better so I am not sure I need the whole package. I suspect even after I told them it was just the trigger they still though they needed the whole disassembly hence the longer times. from viewing the video it did not look like it took that long to get the trigger out and back in.
was it a lining up thing with the slave pin?

Sudade As far as the vise they showed the pin being inserted with the vise rather then tapping it in I am not sure why it does seem just as easy to tap it in. one hand I sold some surplus hobby stuf and might treat myself to having it done for me on the other hand I like doing myself to a degree. The giessle trigger was fairly easy Ihave had my tavor apart as well so still undecided re diy. I don't think I ma being ripped off but rather they are more used to installing the whole kit rather then just the trigger when I told them it is just the trigger they responded well you still have to disassemble the frame. Failure to communicate I think

Ah, that part. If you get the aluminum trigger, I hear the pin is really tight. I've seen lot's of post where people mangle the pin, trigger bar and their shiny new trigger. I think you could use a nice sturdy c-clamp.

I don't like the hinged trigger either. Feels too flimsy but I live with it. Oddly the one on my 9mm Shield feels pretty solid. The one on my FS and Compact, not so much.

Yeah, to replace the just the trigger you still basically detail strip it by removing the locking block and sear housing. Not much left to remove for a total trigger job.

However, not terribly complicated. I've done trigger "upgrades" to my FS and Compact. My FS (v1.0) has a 2.0 trigger in it. I've done the "Burwell" trigger job to both.

http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

I used a sight pusher, not a vise, to remove the rear sight when changing out the striker block. The Apex kit comes with a dovetailed plastic wedge to put in as the sight is drifted out, so the striker block spring and plastic cup don't go flying.

__________________
U. S. Army Veteran

Welcome to the forum.

I put Apex triggers in my M&P's and trigger kits in my H&K's. Not very difficult. As stated above watch some You tube vids! On my first install I took a pic of each step starting with removal thru install. Wanted to make sure everything went back as it should.

Regarding the $80 labor charge, I look at the labor I saved by doing it myself and I usually spend that money saved on a new tool. You can get a nice vice for less than the $80 and then you'll have it for all those other projects you didn't know were headed your way!!

__________________
Dan
Ps 96 SWCA 2930 SWHF 524

Watch the you tube or APEX video four times. You will be good to do it yourself.

__________________
Bob P.

I found it to be an easy job. I did not do anything with the striker block. I didn.t find the need for a vice. Plenty of videos to help. Makes the gun much nicer to shoot.

I did find some one who will do it for 45 while I wait I found a vise at home depot for around 35 but would have to get something for the jaws to make them smooth on amazon around 20 bucks. or jsut use my opin punch set and skip the vise. hmm

fwiw i found plenty of videos where they just pin drifted it down

YouTube

after action report and for those looking this up. I decided to man up and diy. Take down of the parts was not hard the roll puns took a fair bit force to get out. difficult parts trying to set the pin on the trigger with a hammer was not easy, I took up the suggestion of a c clamp which worked great. Reassembly was easy even the slave pin what was hard was getting the roll pins back in especially the one in the back of the pistol. The frame thing from apex would have helped I think. The apex trigger is great I can feel the difference slight less take up and over travel. It feels better on my finger more like my glock or xd. here is a video which was somewhat helpful along with the apex videos
YouTube

you can do it, but I'd do the whole kit. I've done that, but if I could have had it done for $80, I would have paid. it's not complicated, but it is a pain in the butt. Connecting the new trigger to the trigger bar is the touchiest and the most difficult step, because getting the pin out and getting it to go back in is a tough and touchy step.

__________________
Loving retirement!

hmm funny I thought that was easy using the c clamp made it a piece of cake. I don't think the stock trigger assembly is that bad frankly it does rub a bit. To me this is and edc and if push comes to shove and it gets used it would be reliable. I also don't want to mess with the sight removal that looks like a pita. I think bang for the buck on an inexpensive gun the replacement trigger is good to go

I also replace just the trigger in my 2.0 Shield 9mm with the aluminum Apex trigger and like others have reported, getting the trigger pin into the trigger bar was the hardest part. In performing my upgrade, I also replaced the trigger return spring with a heavier S&W factory spring (Red in color) and it also increased the trigger pull a couple lbs. but gives the entire action a better feel IMHO. The aluminum trigger was expensive ($75) but I believe a worth while enhancement.

Which apex trigger do y’all recommend? The trigger only or trigger kit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thread starter I did the trigger only and felt that it improved the gun quite a bit. Metal trigger a plus gets rid of some of the pre and over travel as well. I hated the feel of the hinged trigger. I don't think the pull weight and over all trigger feel in the shield 2.0 is that bad other then the stupid hinged trigger. I did the 100-160 trigger