I recently installed an Apex Flat-Faced Forward Set Trigger Kit in my M&P M2.0 Compact and I am pleased to report that the resulting trigger pull exceeded my expectations. With the Apex trigger my M&P is almost as shoot-able as my favorite custom 45.


Now, I’m not saying my M&P Apex trigger feels exactly like a great .45 trigger feels because my Apex M&P trigger has just the slightest, barely noticeable, subtle hint of a springy feel. What I am saying is that the Apex trigger gave my M&P 2.0 Compact a great trigger pull that made the gun much more shoot-able.


With the Apex trigger my offhand groups at 15 yards shrank from 3″ average to a 2″ average, which is about as good as my 65 year old eyes and hands can do.


Another benefit to installing the flat-faced trigger is that the bottom of the curved factory trigger would bump my trigger finger slightly with every shot. After shooting a couple of magazines, my trigger finder would start to get sore. The flat-faced trigger completely eliminated that problem.


Installing the trigger was not as straight-forward as I hoped it would be, but that was largely due to Apex’s failure to provide any guidance on how to install the trigger in the package that the trigger arrived in. The package contained no reference to the videos on Apex’s web site, no reference to Apex’s YouTube channel, and no reference to the important Apex PDF chart that tells which spring combinations to use to get different pull weights.


Nor was installation information easy to find on Apex’s web site. Apex really needs to have someone thoroughly audit their website, fix broken links, and improve the product pages so they link directly to the videos, charts, blog entries, and other references that customers need in order to install the trigger.


Installation Resources

This installation resources link at the bottom of some of Apex’s pages gives a 404 error: 404 Not Found


This very useful installation video was needlessly difficult to find on their site.


This essential chart of which springs produce specific pull weights is also needlessly difficult to find on their web site. The trigger product page really should have a link to this chart.


Eventually I found a reference to the Apex Installation Video YouTube channel, but for some odd reason, the channel doesn’t have any M&P 2.0 videos.


is pretty good and was quite helpful.


Installing the Trigger Bar

I had never disassembled an M&P 2.0 before I installed the Apex trigger. Installing the trigger was pretty straightforward except the step to pin the trigger bar to the Apex trigger. For my trigger, the step to pin the trigger bar to the trigger required an astonishing amount of force to move the pin even the smallest distance.


Randy Lee with Apex demonstrates how to use a vice to move the pin in this video. At about 60 seconds into the video Randy mentions applying “a little bit of pressure.” If you watch the video you will notice that Randy actually had to apply what I consider to be a very large amount of pressure to the vice handle. Moving the pin on my trigger took much more force than you see in Randy’s video. I had to really bear down on the vice handle and then I’d hear the pin pop and the pin would move slightly. I had to do that about four times before the pin was close to being flush with the surface of the trigger. I don’t know how you’ll move that pin if you don’t have a decent size vise.


Maybe some triggers and pins are not as tight as mine was. For triggers and pins as tight as mine, I don’t think you would be able to move the pin with just a pin punch. Just something to be aware of if you decide to install an Apex trigger for yourself.

Conclusion

If you like the S&W M&P M2.0 but you don’t like the factory trigger then I highly recommend that you get an Apex Flat-Faced Forward Set Trigger Kit. The trigger kit ain’t cheap (around $170 in August 2020) but the Apex trigger has made my M&P M2.0 compact much more shoot-able and putting bullets on target under time pressure is what it’s all about.


The Apex Flat-Faced Forward Set Trigger Kit that I installed is here on Apex’s web site.

100% agree. Removing and installing the trigger can reck the trigger bar an trigger. A good vice is mandatory. I ended up buying a couple of extra trigger bars so I wouldn’t have to hassle removing old trigger. 8$ each well worth it.

I also installed Apex barrel and had slide milled for red dot. Now it’s my favorite pistol.

Cheers

Philip

I have installed several Apex trigger kits and the trigger pin have always been really hard to drive in. I usually use a vice to push the pin just far enough in so I can hook the trigger bar on the pin and then use hammer and punch on the rest.

And the possibility of messing up the trigger bar is real and have happened. A customer of mine bought the kit from another store and had them instal it where the gunsmith bent the trigger bar so it was dragging along the frame.

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Hello darknes my old friend

Did yours come in the past clamshell as shown in that YouTube video? If so the back of the package directs you to there website for install videos, unless they have recently changed that or yours is printed.

I've installed several Apex trigger kits two of which are the flat face like yours. I didn't personally notice undue resistance in any part during the install but individual guns can vary. I will second the comment that a good trigger greatly improves the shootabilty of any gun and the M&P's are no exception. I have said in the past that I've become a bit of a trigger snob...once you feel a really good trigger then the bar is set.


The FDE is the latest recipient. I didn't even fire it before installing the trigger.

Attached Images

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My trigger kit did come in a plastic clam shell. When I got it I looked the package over carefully several times because I couldn't believe that there were no instructions or mention of a web site. But I suppose I could have missed it. I no longer have the package so I can't double-check.

They need a metal slave pin, not the plastic one they provide. Putting the pin in after the locking block goes in is such a nightmare.

Also ... check with your local gun shop , mine said "if you buy the Apex Kit from us we will install it free of charge !"
Just so happened on the morning I came in they were able to install the kit while I had a cup of "free" coffee and read the morning newspaper .
Why should I screw up a perfectly good trigger kit when a pro will install it for me , while I wait .

So check around with local dealer if you would rather not do the install , just maybe they can help .
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

After replacing at least a dozen Apex triggers on M&P trigger bars I've learned to give the trigger/pin at least 30 minutes soak in a good grade penetrating oil (Kroil is my favorite). The soak doesn't magically make them easy but it seems to make the installation less stressful, on trigger and me. Having the proper starting punch and a solid backing surface make getting the pin started much easier. The other key is NOT completely removing the pin. Just drive it out enough that you can get the trigger bar off the pin and out of the trigger shoe pocket. I also give the new trigger and pin a soak with the penetrating oil prior to attempting installation. Using a vice with a flat face jaw inserts will give you much more control when re-inserting the pin into the new trigger ALMOST to full depth. Don't try to seat the pin to final depth using the vice, it is too easy to crush the new Apex trigger. The pin can be taken to final flush depth with a larger round punch and the trigger on a solid backing surface.

All of the foregoing comments have reinforced my decision to just leave the triggers alone on any of my S&W M&P pistols. Voiding the factory warranty should work be needed, having a "modified" self defense gun, and paying $$$ for these liabilities plus searching and paying for installation are negatives I don't find attractive. But those who find these "enhancements" worthwhile are satisfied...so be it. Different strokes....

I put one in my 2.0 compact and it is now the best striker fired trigger I have experienced to date. I put a Overwatch precision in my Glock 19 and it was very nice. The stock trigger in my CZ P10-C was also very good but the Apex Flatty is better.

Apex triggers, or any other after market triggers for that mater, should never ever be installed in a self defense gun.
S&W have performed drop tests with M&P’s with Apex triggers and they have failed where factory triggers have not. I consider Apex as an upgrade you are doing to a pistol that will only be used for competitions

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Hello darknes my old friend

I was PayPal click away from Apex purchase before coming across you post.
I will stay stock, Thanks much for info.

Great idea in obtaining an extra trigger bar if one ever needs to return the M&P to S&W for service...

Thanks!

P.S. "Paranoia strikes deep: into your heart it will creep... It starts when you're always afraid." Step out of line, go Apex, and they'll take your warranty away...?

OP, thanks for opening this thread! I live in the Third World and getting parts for the M&P 2.0 is hard and requires lots of patience.

Usually I shoot IPSC with a CZ Shadow 2 in Production Optics Division, but managed to get my hands on an M&P 2.0 longslide with a flat forward Apex trigger recently. I soon discovered that I shoot steel with this M&P better than with the Shadow 2! There's a good chance that I'll move to the M&P 2.0 full time once our current shooting season is over. The Shadow 2 being a heavy racegun provides better splits during warp speed firing, but other than that the M&P seems to be advantageous, at least to me.

The ability to adjust the width of the M&P's grip has always been a major selling point (most other polymer framed guns are too skinny for my big hands). Previously I shot a CZ Tactical Sports in Standard Division (exactly the same magazine thickness as the M&P) and this fitted my hands well well, but aging eyes and dark ranges have compelled me to start using red dots. Now that I've gotten a trigger that matches my hands, I couldn't be happier with the M&P 2.0 platform!

Now a question: is there any justification in moving to a 5.0 CORE? Today I use an Outer Impact dovetail mounted red dot mount
Pros of the CORE: mounting of red dot closer to the bore axis - less elevation offset for long range shooting. Co-witnessing is feasible with most mini-red dots.
Pros of the non-CORE: compatible with all my carry holsters. No soot blown into the lens through the chamber's witness hole (this model uses a tab type LCI).

Inputs are welcome - thanks for your attention.

With the C.O.R.E you may find it may not be necessary to modify the trigger: the trigger on my PC M&P40 (1.0) has been excellent from day 1.

I did obtain non-ported aftermarket conversion barrels in 9mm, a threaded barrel in 40 S&W and the 357 SIG barrel that makes this one of the most versatile platforms available, IMHO...

CHEERS!

Do you a link showing this??? Was this on a 1.0...because that trigger bar was a total mess with that curly end you could bend. On a 2.0 I am not sure how it would fail in a drop test?? If it did fail it would fail on the stock parts as well.

The parts are way better quality than the stock parts. In fact when take out the stock trigger shoe and compare it to the Apex the stock one is total junk. I am surprised they don't break over time they feel so cheap

Love em

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NRA Life
USPSA/IPSC

It's his opinion, presented as fact, and you know what they say about opinions.

not a fan of Apex Triggers. However the one they make for the Walther PPQ is nice but for the MP line, I had one installed on my 2.0 compact and was getting light primer strikes. Ended up having to remove it and go back to stock

I am not sure how installing an Apex Trigger kit would give you light primer strikes??

The trigger kit does NOTHING to the striker. Light primer strikes are caused by weak striker springs. Either worn out or some after market striker spring installed for a competition gun.

That you would be like someone saying I added wiper washer fluid to my car and now it wont start.