Quote:
Originally Posted by NukeRef
I am not familiar with the term you used: the slide "auto-forwards." What do you mean by that?
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While this has been answered basically, there is a little more to it.
When a slide is locked back by the slide stop raised up to engage the slide stop notch in the slide, there are a number of ways to get the slide to go forward. While each method has its proponents, suffice it to say, a properly adjusted slide stop will allow anyone to use any of the methods to get the slide lock out of the way so the slide can go forward.
The slide lock has a small spring that keeps it in a downward position on the top of the frame. An internal tab allows the follower of an empty mag to push up the slide stop against the spring pressure, and the slide coming forward under recoil spring tension then engages the slide lock. One can also manually push the slide lock up to get the same result.
Originally, the release method taught was commonly called the
sling shot method. Pinch the back of the slide between thumb and forefinger (like a slingshot) and pull the slide back smartly so your fingers slip off the back of the slide. This releases the recoil spring tension of the slide lock notch on the slide lock lever. The lever drops quickly down, and the slide runs forward.
The same result occurs when using the
overhand method(OH). One grasps the slide between the lower palm with fingers wrapped over the opposite side and pulls back. This is often taught as the common tactical method, but like the first method it is the slowest of the methods for getting a gun back into a fight as it requires a lot of hand movement and repositioning. On the range, speed makes no difference. In a fight, it does.
Operating manuals usually recommend these methods as they are easy to learn and don’t require the factory to take extra time ($$) to adjust the slide stop interface on each pistol.
Next fastest is the method used by many competitors and tactical operators. One uses a finger, usually a thumb, to push down the slide lock. Most guns come from the factory with no attempt to have the slide stop adjusted so this method can be used.
As a consequence, many new slide stops are so stiff, that is, they have so much friction between the slide stop lever and the slide that a gorilla and a six pack of bananas are not enough to manually drop the slide lever. A simple polishing of the engagement surfaces reduces friction gradually until it is just right for the stop to be used as a manual finger release. The polishing actually increases the engagement surface, so the slide is securely locked back, but the polishing makes it easy to push down manually.
Finally, in adjusting the slide stop, the reduction of friction can go to the next level where all the mentioned methods work and the slide is held securely, but a smart insertion of the magazine—using the force likely to be used in a fight—jars the slide just enough as the mag is seated to release the tension on the slide stop. The stop lever drops immediately and releases the slide (“automatically”) even before the hand inserting the mag can regain a firing grip.
It is the fastest and simplest method of getting the slide to go forward. This is a real advantage for one handed manipulations of a pistol, although using one’s firing hand thumb is fast and easy also, assuming the stop has been adjusted. Hooking some part of the slide on an object to get the lever to release is slow, difficult at best and potentially dangerous. It is very rarely practiced, especially with live ammunition.
Inserting the loaded mag can be done stupidly hard enough to jar the top round in the mag and jar it out of position for any loading process. This can cause a misfeed, although I have never had it happen to me with a defensive pistol in a fighting caliber. I have adjusted slide stops on over two dozen pistols from various manufacturers to operate this way. It is one more option for a shooter trained in the method.
Simply adjusting the slide stop to function the way you want it to makes your gun run like you want to train.
Unfortunately, some folks complained to S&W that auto-forwarding happened on some of their M&P models direct from the factory (without them adjusting the slide stop). They didn’t like it, so S&W mechanically *******ized the stop lever on certain 2.0 models so auto-forward is not available. The EZ models do not have this handicap.
Inserting a mag casually will not cause the adjusted slide stop lever to drop. Any of the mentioned methods can be used at this point to get the slide closed, including bumping the bottom of the grip sharply to auto-forward.
If the slide does not close as expected by auto-forwarding, the shooter simply uses one of the other methods he/she prefers for getting the lever down. I prefer to hit the slide release lever with my off-hand thumb every time as I acquire a firing grip, even though the stop is always already down when I do so. It’s a backup maneuver.
Until a shooter tries auto-forwarding, they assume it will not work reliably. I don’t show it to new shooters. I teach the OH method first. As they progress, I show them the options and they choose what works for them, often sticking with OH. Taking advantage of auto-forwarding with an adjusted slide stop is an AH-HA training procedure that works for many of us. It’s not for everybody.