I was going to change my MA trigger spring with an Apex on my 3.6 compact. It has a filler piece in the spring and my Apex does not. Is this for MA 10lb springs only or should I get a spring with a filler piece? Do non MA guns with standard trigger have this filler?

See photo.

Thanks.

Attached Images

MP 2c trigger spring.jpg (61.8 KB, 25 views)

Don't worry about that filler. It does nothing in term of functionality of the firearm / trigger.
Few of my handguns had such filler in original springs but all replacements never got them. All had been functioning properly.

Check this thread to find more information.
What's That Packed Inside The Trigger Return Spring?

I dont use the filler either.


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Stock springs have it too. Supposed to dampen vibration like the link above says.

Turns out the new spring did have the filler. I have to say replacing that spring is tedious. Not mentally hard but lining up all the parts was frustrating.

It took me about 10 tries. Every fail happened when re inserting the pin. The spring kept falling off just before final clearance of it. When I finally got it I forgot the take down lever had to go in before the locking block was installed.

So I had to start over. Same situation, about 10 more tries before success.

If you've never done this before don't try unless you have very good patience.

This is a tricky part for new armorers to learn, too. The use of an assembly pin (what we used to call a slave pin), or even a pin punch (inserted on the opposite side of the trigger pin) can help to keep the parts aligned as the trigger pin is advanced. It only takes a moment's inattention for the trigger return spring's forward coil to slip down/back and fail to be captured by the trigger pin.

FWIW, while S&W used to include a short bullet-shaped assembly pin in their plastic pistol armorer kits, using a handled pin punch offers an advantage over the assembly pin. Using the pin punch, you can angle the handle slightly to the rear, which angles the pin punch tip slightly to the front, and can be helpful to keep forward pressure on the trigger return spring coil, keeping it pushed forward enough not to drop off the advancing tip of the trigger pin.

It's not so much that it feels like it takes 3 hands to do the installation ... but more like you have to hold your mouth just right.

Another mistake that's easy to make is to forget to orient the trigger return spring so the "open" coil end is connected to the trigger bar with the "open" coil end facing UP.

Well, keeping the slide stop lever assembly aligned with the trigger bar assembly takes some attention and patience, too.

There are a few things going on during that part of the assembly process.

__________________
Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

This had me giggling!

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The best I can with what I got

... or watch enough YouTube videos
As Fastbolt posted - small punch does the job.

^^^THIS^^^

I made one out of a section of 1/8 in. metal rod I got from home depot.(Less than three bucks and you can make 20 of em out of it) Measured it, cut it down with a cut off wheel on the Dremel and then rounded off one end.

I suppose it can be done (maybe), but I will never again attempt to put that trigger group in the block without one.

It's not a blast even with it, but it's not too bad either. Without it? No way.