i know it has the steel chassis like the other m&p pistols, but does it have that metal insert like the m&p 2.0 that's embedded into the frame itself?


the reason is we all know the shield is the least snappy gun of its class and that's partly due to the stronger construction and use of more metal parts, but i suspect it also has to do with the very strong recoil spring.


what if we can make it recoil even less? my adding a couple ounces to it via steel inserts directly into the frame?


my thinking is to cut shallow little alcoves length wise on the interior of the frame, add steel into those sections and epoxying them into place. it can perhaps even be done in the inside of the grip vertically so long as it is flush and doesn't interfere with the magazine itself


i feel thin long sheets of steel might work but at the same time perhaps a metal matrix using wires, like rebars, could work as well

All the micro 9s have a strong recoil spring. A light 9mm needs one to avoid battering the frame. Not sure how much a stronger frame would affect recoil.

But what does affect felt recoil is weight and grip shape. Grip shape is subjective but I have read a lot of people find the Shield more comfortable.

The Shield Plus has a couple of ounces more weight than the P365, the S&W website doesn't include the weight of a magazine in the specs. The 4 inch version of the Shield plus is actually a tiny bit heavier than a Glock 19. If you add a few more ounces of steel the 3 inch version would be as heavy as a G19 too. I already prefer the P365 due to its lower weight. Being the heaviest pistol in the micro compact class would not make the pistol more attractive to most buyers.

Frame flex is one of the things that makes polymer-framed pistols comfortable to shoot. The frame absorbs some of th recoi force. So stiffening he frame might actually accomplish the opposite of recoil attentuation.

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Pisgah

i agree it would defeat the purpose of the polymer ie light weight gun for most consumers but i don't mind heavier guns, i prefer it for all of the benefits it confers to shooting.


but anyway i went down to the local shop and got one on consignment. this project is now going ahead. i've researched the frame and it appears there's a spot right below the sear housing where i can pour tungsten powder and then seal it with epoxy. i will also mix tungsten powder with epoxy and coat it on the recessed area of the recoil spring housing. my goal is to get the pistol loaded weight from ~24 to ~27 oz


as for frame flex, i don't plan on adding too much metal. and i've decided against cutting into the frame, instead i will mix tungsten powder with epoxy and coat it into the recesses of the frame. under heat from shooting the gun, epoxy becomes rubbery so i don't expect it will interfere with frame flex too much


under the sear housing there's a compartment that's about .5 inch wide by 1 inch deep and this will make a good area for pouring in 1.5 oz of tungsten powder

Interesting first post..........I would think that a judicious application of a dremel tool to cut groves to be filled with the epoxy/tungsten powder slurry may also help. As far as epoxy itself, although my first choice would be the West System, you just have to buy too much. Second choice would be Marine-Tex epoxy putty that is easily mixable with whatever filler you want to use, in your case tungsten powder. You can tint the Marine Tex to the color of the frame. Keep us posted and remember we LOVE pictures

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Forum consigliere

i'm still half way through my 10 day mandatory waiting period. i plan to mix epoxy with tungsten powder to put it in the front by grinding a little indention into the internals. i also want to put the same material into the little hollow area inside the backstrap. since the hollow area seems to be intended to absorb recoil, i plan to just put pure tungsten powder inside so it will remain soft, then i plug it at the bottom with tungsten putty and then finally epoxy to secure it in place.


thank you

Good luck with your endeavor. I would be afraid to put anything inside my pistol that with heat could possibly dislodge and induce malfunctions. Unless it was an experimental fun gun. Then, no harm no foul.

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The Penetration Channel

i've worked with the material before and understand its properties, but yeah with that in mind i think i would first put it near non functioning parts first

csx is a response to this thread. thank you so much smith and wesson

Regarding adding weight. I have a number of Sig P320 guns, some of which have OEM weights in the grip, When shooting the one with weights in the grip against a grip module without weights there is some reduction in recoil, not much. Now some of the reduction may be because the gun has a better balance point with the weight. I did a additional test to see if I could effect everything more by adding weight to the accessory rail under the front. I saw some differences,
I'm doing some tests by adding different amounts of weight to the accessory rail. What I'm trying to accomplish is getting the balance of the gun to be right over the trigger, haven't accomplished it yet but I haven't been experimenting constantly but slowly getting there. The Sig p320 weighted grip module helps a lot.
Trying to do this will depend how much weight you can apply in the rear and front of the gun. The Sig p320 X5 Legion is a great example of adding weight throughout the whole frame to make the gun as neutral as possible, it does a great job as this gun is doing well in competition.

Actually to test what different weights have effects you can add thin lead sheet weight to the outside rear of the grip with strong tape so you could add and subtract weight to see what works best and doing the same thing to the accessory rail in front. My thinking is moving the balance point of the gun would effect how it shoots IMO